75 degrees = 68 degrees. No wonder I couldn't get things to adhere well sometimes.
As a side note, the temp varies wildly along the plate base. An enclosure would definitely help here.
Has anyone else tested the actual temps versus the set/displayed temps and noticed a difference?
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
Do not create links to reddit
If you see an issue please flag it
No guns
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
Keep in mind IR thermometers are sensitive to the reflectivity/emissivity of the materials they are used on, and the shiny PEI surface can be a bit tricky. Try measuring the temperature of a mirror that your warmed up with your hand and you’ll see a similar problem.
If you want to test more accurately, put some matte tape on the bed and then measure the temperature then.
That said there is also a chance for the heat bed to be a bit lower than target temperature, since the temperature control and feedback occurs at the bottom of the bed where the thermistor is, not at the top, and is separated by a layer of magnetic adhesive and coated metal.
Agree. Thing that matters is consistency of measurement, but thermistors tend to not drift very much. One thing for op to keep in mind is that thermistors tend to be mounted to the bottom of the bed and there will be some temperature difference between the bottom on the top - especially if the printer hasn't had the opportunity to soak. The other thing to keep in mind is how the terminator is attached to the bed. On my i3 it was just a piece of kapton tape, which meant there was often an air gap between the thermistor and the bed. I'm sure this resulted in quite a bit of weirdness.
hehe. I use dots left over from my first-layer test prints. or other 1-2 layer height plastics. it can be anything that's thin, and not shiny.