j4k3

joined 2 years ago
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[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 13 points 1 week ago (1 children)
[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 2 points 1 week ago

(this account)

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 2 points 1 week ago (1 children)

It is just a cleanliness standard. It is not required. I spent a decade in the details of automotive paint. I only covered the surface basics for paint. What I call clean for paint is an order of magnitude more dirty than a surgeon, and they are orders of magnitude more dirty than a silicon chip foundry. When it comes to making plastic stick and look pretty, an automotive painter might be helpful for framing the scope of what is possible. All I can tell you is I have a Prusa and never have these problems, so I explained my experience and methodology as to why I do as I said. Again, sorry this upsets you.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 1 points 1 week ago (3 children)

I have not had problems with glass or PEI. Your other comments indicate you tried ABS. That will never work without an enclosure, and even then, it will not work particularly well on any Cartesian machine. Sorry that illustrative examples and abstractive reasoning are offensive to you.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 3 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (5 children)

It can coat the inside of the drier. Use Bounty paper towels as a control when in question. Bounty are often used in automotive paint shops for a few reasons, but they are trustworthy for composition. If the two plies are separated, they make a good strain filter. That is the primary reason they are used. They also tend to be lower lint though not perfect. A tack cloth is used in the booth with controlled filtered air flow either across or down draft, so it is not a concern for perfect paint.

One of the tricks of automotive painting is to add a couple of drops of Palmolive dish soap to the water bucket used with wet sanding. It makes 3M Imperial Wet/Dry sandpaper last several times longer and acts as a mild degreaser the whole time. Any residue is cleaned in the booth stage using a special Wax and Grease Remover solvent that is the least reactive of the painting solvents. While this solvent is used extensively, still the fact that Palmolive dish soap can be used at all indicates how it is clean, consistent, and chemically irrelevant. Automotive paint reacts with many chemicals but specifically silicon is the worst problem. It causes fisheyes aka little divot like holes to form in the clearcoat. In most situations involving contamination and adhesion, silicon is the main issue that will be very persistent. It is so bad in automotive paint that in the worst cases, we turn to adding an actual silicon solution into the 2k clearcoat and trying to guess what concentration will match the problem area to level it. Otherwise, the entire job must be stripped to the raw surface and start over. Silicon issues only show up in the final wet clearcoat layer shortly after it is sprayed and leveled.

The reason why I have written all of this is to illustrate this point: the silicon is essentially floating on every underlying layer. The solvent has wet the area and the silicon just floats to the top of some filler, 2k primer, sealer, top coat color and when it gets to the clearcoat it blows a hole through it. There are two solutions. Use a two part epoxy primer that is a pain in the ass to sand, or clean the the raw surface with lacquer thinner or virgin acetone. In automotive paint, those two solvents are dangerous for causing a ton of other contamination and reactions issues. However, these are the only solvents that will take off silicon without diluting it and making the problem worse. Alcohol is a joke with no place in the automotive paint world when I was painting. I got out before water based stuff ruined the industry by making refinishing exponentially more expensive. That is only the color coat and some primers, so there may be alcohol used in some way in these, but it will not involve cleaning. Tire shine is the main source of silicon issues in automotive paint.

I have the empirical experience to know what I am looking at with cleaning and solvents. Alcohol is okay for minor issues, but think of it as constantly diluting and wiping the problem across the whole surface. Eventually, just use some virgin acetone to actually clean the thing properly. Paint is just plastic too. Each type requires a different type of tooth to mechanically bond to. With printing, I use 600 grit to lightly knock the shine off of the print plate surface. I go lighter on the textured sheet, but I only use the textured sheet with PETG because it is the only one that takes the textured pattern completely without showing layer lines. I print weekly on average, and use acetone and sandpaper around once a year. When I use glue stick, I clean the plate with dish soap after. I use alcohol in between. You will need an enclosure for ASA, ABS, and any larger PC prints regardless of the sheet or glue. Two IKEA Lack tables with legs stacked using double sided screws, then a clear shower curtain liner, and some tack nails does the job for under $50.

I would never use towels from any drier that has ever had fabric softener used in it for automotive paint. That is a contamination nightmare for me.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 14 points 1 week ago

It would have been more fun to paint cars if someone named the mixing colors like this. Yellow is actually quite rare in automotive mixing systems. You never see yellow cars. There are many you might mistake as actual yellow, but nearly all are a trick. There are usually 2 yellows that are used for tinting, mostly with whites. The primary black in automotive paint is actually yellow based. A tiny amount of black with a fine metallic is how most champagne colored cars are formulated.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 3 points 1 week ago

Stump. I was a tree, but now a dump.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 6 points 1 week ago

Lunch mates some days ago.

She has grown up in the era of me lying down all the time and has grown into lounging much the same.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 3 points 1 week ago

Disconnect from their cycle and think for yourself. The news cycle is the primary problem. It is malicious theatrics. The further I have disconnected and distanced myself, for personal reasons, I only catch the periphery, but stuff makes much more sense overall. I write my own opinion and narrative because I have the space to form it.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 1 points 1 week ago (1 children)

We need DNS filtering to work on outgoing packages by default, and to make whitelist DNS stupid simple to implement for any parent and child processes. It should be as simple as launching with the command, including a preconfigured whitelist, and a pop-up message for "approve, deny, prepend to list." System wide and incoming packet filtering is insufficient for the modern world.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 2 points 1 week ago

llama.cpp is at the core of almost all offline, open weights models. The server it creates is Open AI API compatible. Oobabooga Textgen WebUI is more user GUI oriented but based on llama.cpp. Oobabooga has the setup for loading models with a split workload between the CPU and GPU which makes larger gguf quantized models possible to run. Llama.cpp, has this feature, Oobabooga implements it. The model loading settings and softmax sampling settings take some trial and error to dial in well. It helps if you have a way of monitoring GPU memory usage in real time. Like I use a script that appends my terminal window title bar with GPU memory usage until inference time.

Ollama is another common project people use for offline open weights models, and it also runs on top of llama.cpp. It is a lot easier to get started in some instances and several projects use Ollama as a baseline for "Hello World!" type stuff. It has pretty good model loading and softmax settings without any fuss, but it does this at the expense of only running on GPU or CPU but never both in a split workload. This may seem great at first, but if you never experience running much larger quantized models in the 30B-140B range, you are unlikely to have success or a positive experience overall. The much smaller models in the 4B-14B range are all that are likely to run fast enough on your hardware AND completely load in your GPU memory if you only have 8GB-24GB. Most of the newer models are actually Mixture of Experts architectures. This means it is like loading ~7 models initially, but then only inferencing two of them at any one time. All you need is the system memory or the Deepspeed package (uses disk drive for excess space required) to load these larger models. Larger quantized models are much much smarter and more capable. You also need llama.cpp if you want to use function calling for agentic behaviors. Look into the agentic API and pull history in this area of llama.cpp before selecting what models to test in depth.

Huggingface is the goto website for sharing and sourcing models. That is heavily integrated with GitHub, so it is probably as toxic long term, but I do not know of a real FOSS alternative for that one. Hosting models is massive I/O for a server.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 4 points 1 week ago (1 children)

tendentious milieu, or mircomilieu

 

Adjective
tendentious (comparative more tendentious, superlative most tendentious)

  • (of persons or their words) Having a tendency, written or spoken, with a partisan, biased or prejudiced purpose, especially a controversial one; implicitly or explicitly slanted; biased.

That he was a supporter of the cause was clear, because his reports from the front were tendentious.

https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/tendentious

113
Crew 11 (lemmy.world)
 

From 20 minutes ago... The sonic boom took 8 minutes to arrive.

 

I don't need useful translation. I need a way to randomize the words across different languages within the same sentence like a noise source where the basic grammatical structure is English but the words are many languages. I need to ensure the translated words are not in a list, then display the rest as a pull down menu or just code to swap the first option.

I was thinking about using the Wiktionary data dump, but if anyone knows a better option, I'd love to hear it.

 

Not asking for cynicism about clickbait. I feel a degree of emotional blindness about what makes some content creators popular. No one is universally popular. Demographics determine much. What drives a channel like Kurzgesagt or Veritasium over others?

I find it funny that I intuit how think tanks have a popularity formula they are following, but the second I find out about that relationship, I tune them out. The only exception I know of is Dr. Ben Miles. Prager trash was the first one I recall encountering ages ago with their spurious nonsense.

I have no interest in emotional empathy driven stuff. In terms of technically interesting content, I feel totally blind to the popularity rules. Do you know? Please explain them.

 
  1. How are you focused mentally?
  2. Do you think about other things at the same time?
  3. Are you focused on the lines, the imaginary half line, the staring points, the previous letter alignment, spacing, what comes next, what will fit on the line, the artistic expression of style, or simply the pure minimal effort required to communicate written thought?
  4. Do you often find yourself bored and evolving or changing your style of writing as an outlet of secondary creativity along with whatever task is at hand?
  5. Are you concerned with the impact your writing style has upon others, or are you only concerned with the expansion of your own short/long term memory and usefulness?
  6. Are you aware of the loose correlation between intellect and handwriting? What does that mean to you personally.
  7. Are the ergonomics a point of conscious focus?
 

I like the hacked breadboards so far. I made a sloppy super-breadboard. I should have glued it before soldering but was worried the glue might make it into the slots with the metal contacts. I also broke up the internal rails and labeled so that 8b data and 16b address all exist on the same set of 4 power rails.

I think I am having an issue with either some crossed wires or how Bus Request works with the Z80 versus how the Bus Enable of the 65x chips work. I think one or all may have some type of routine that does not high-z the buses immediately... a problem for tomorrow.

 

I watched Anton Petrov's last upload on the impossible merger of intermediate mass black holes,(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8p6PgXqL6OQ).

Do two orbiting black holes have a gravitational resonant effect that is different than a single object of an equivalent mass?

 

I woke up to this idea for some reason. I come from having owned an auto body shop twice and doing custom graphics and airbrush work for a decade. One of the biggest expenses in auto body work is abrasive sandpaper. Few people ever take prints to anywhere near the finish quality of automotive paint, but that is another thing entirely.

In optics, metrology, and machine tools, often reference flats are made by rubbing two objects together by various means of lubrication.

Likewise with auto body refinishing, I am always thinking in terms of sanding blocks. Sanding blocks are either bought or custom made. Commercial blocks are usually foam or rubber of various hardnesses. Sandpaper is attached or just wrapped around the sanding block by hand. The purpose of the block is to only sand the high spots without touching the low spots, kinda like a bridge. The flexibility of the block allows it to conform to the broader curves of panels, but its overall length determines the size of depression it will bridge.

This is super important for auto body work where the clear coat reflections will be plainly visible in the end, and depending on the color, will show several types of errors that other categories of finished objects are never subjected to by critique.

So, if you follow thus far, let's go one level further. The next level of block sanding involves reproducing positive contours that a block cannot bridge. Most jobs can be sculpted freehand, but sometimes this just doesn't suffice and it still looks wonky. The way to fix this is by making a custom shaped sanding block. Often balsa wood is a good choice for making a custom block by cutting thin boards in a stack of contoured profiles. At least this is how I did it back before 3d printing was a hobby accessible thing, and if I couldn't use another method. The most common method I used was simply a collection of oddly shaped and contoured objects I kept around for the purpose of sanding.

The purpose of my bla bla bla is to contextualize this overall post idea and abstraction. This is a very advanced and niche concept involving high quality finishes. So let's combine the ideas.

  1. Like polishes like, or precision abrasion is possible with similar objects and abrasives like with optics.
  2. Sanding is about bridging to abrade the highs without touching the lows, and following contours.
  3. If fiber infused filament is much more abrasive than regular filament, it has potential to abrade a part as a tool.

So my idea here is that there are many potential small run applications where a sanding form could be printed that will shape or finish the final print. There are many possible techniques I can think of for this type of application.

If you have messed with sanding ABS, you may realize it has a somewhat unique texture and feel. It is the primary plastic used in automotive bumper covers and trim parts. The reason why it is used is because ABS has very similar thermal expansion and adhesion properties that make it compatible with automotive paint refinishing systems. It would be my choice for the best plastic to use for this idea of a fiber infused print as a sanding abrasive.

With any type of sanding, special care is required to ensure finer sharp details are retained. Like on an automotive panel, I often turned any sharp transition like a crease or corner into a sharp edge throughout the filler and primer phases. I only shaped these contours at the end, just before the final primer sealer.

With a print, let's say something like a chess piece, I should be able to print a 2 part shell out of a fiber infused ABS. This should have a small gap that surrounds the final print. Then print an abrasive version of the final product. If these are fastened to something like the sanding surface of a dual action power sander, the two like forms should smooth any layer lines without requiring effort from me. Then once the final part is printed without any fibers infused, is placed inside the shell and the DA sander is run, the extra abrasiveness of the shell should last for a small production run. Adding water into the process like wet sanding would likely speed up the process and make the abrasive shell last longer.

Overall, the complex formed abrasive might enable an unique form of manufacturing process. The potential for automation greatly reduces labor costs in time. Even just as a basic abrasive material, it may be cheaper to print something than it is to use sandpaper in some applications. I have no idea how effective it will be overall. If mostly automated, the time does not matter.

232
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by j4k3@lemmy.world to c/lemmyshitpost@lemmy.world
 
 

The Ultimative Filament Drybox

Introduction

So... I saw those filament dryboxes. Of course I'd wanted to design one by myself so badly…

And here it is! Let me introduce an overengineered but cool looking drybox spool stand!

  • Does it print fast? No!
  • Does is has bearings? Damn, yes!
  • Will I need metal saw? Of course yes!
  • Can I insert a hygrometer? I've got you covered!
  • And silica gel? What's about silica gel? Put it into the included container!

Motivation

I designed this quad-roller-spool-baseplate with maximum spool width in mind for a 4L cereal box. The four rollers have small but sufficient shoulders, so any spool smaller 68mm in width can fit.

All parts are designed to fit into 4 liter "Skroam" cereal boxes with three finger grips, you can find these at the big A.

For my Prusa Core One an outlet on the top is perfect. This way I can put the box besides the printer. If I'd like to store a spool for a longer period, I swap the printed cover with the original one, and the box is 100% air tight.

BOM

To build one box you'll need:

Printed parts

  • 1x BasePlate (Filabox-BasePlate.stl)

  • 1x Cover (Filabox-Cover.stl)

  • 1x Silica box (Filabox-Silicabox.stl)

  • 1x Silica box cover (Filabox-SilicaboxCover.stl)

  • 4x Roller (Filabox-Roller.stl) Additional parts to buy

  • 1x 4l cereal container, obvious

  • 1x 4mm PTFE tube of your needed length

  • 4x bearing 685ZZ (5x11x5mm)

  • 2x M5 threaded rod L=62mm max. (61.0mm to 61.8mm will fit best)

  • 1x digital rectangular hygrometer

  • 1x bondtec push-fit pneumatic coupler (PTFE ECAS04)
    Optional parts

  • 2x Roller Tool (Filabox-RollerTool.stl), it's a tiny allen key to mount the rollers easily

  • 1x Cap (Filabox-Cap.stl) to close the PTFE tube

  • 1x PC4-M6 pneumatic coupler for the cap How to print
    I printed my parts with PLA:

  • Base: 2 perimeters, lightening infill, 15%, support for the hygrometer-bridge, 0.25mm layer height

  • Rollers: 3 perimeters, infill 30%, change scarf joint placement, 0.2mm layer height

  • Other parts: 2 perimeters, infill as needed, 0.2mm layer height

  • However, if you'd like to change anything for your needs, go for it.

For your convinience: I've added a 3mf file with all parts for one box and appropriate settings!

Assembly

  • Print all parts
  • Cut 2 pieces of a M5 threaded rod to a length 61-62mm (max.)
  • Insert all 4 bearings as shown in the pictures
  • Screw the threaded rod pieces in one roller each (thread will cut into plastic)
  • Get the rollers with mounted rods into the bearings (gently)
  • Screw the second roller for each axis very carefully until no gap is left
  • Insert hygrometer
  • Finally, fill your silica container and put all together Rollers should turn easily! Don't screw it tight, the bearings are tiny and should not give you any resistance!

Appendix

You may ask... What the heck are the V-slots for? Why is there a notch on the top? Well... You'll might surprise me with your addons for smaller spools or clip-on filament labels :)

 

We need a system like a RockChip processor based single board computer, paired with a trusted protection module, and all fediverse services prepackaged for minimal user input required to self host any fediverse services. All updates should be safely installed over the air via the TPM chip based encryption just like with Graphene OS. All of the necessary connections should be preconfigured to punch a hole for the port into the internet. The hardware should be completely locked down with an immutable base system and SE Linux fully configured. There shouldn't be any accommodations for obscure edge cases outside of the base configuration. It should not require any further payment or services.

A RockChip RK3588 is fully documented with a 3k3 page long full datasheet. As I understand it, this chip is open hardware, though it still has the ARM proprietary blob (TrustZone), similar to the x86_64 Intel Management Engine, and AMD Platform Security Processor. I have not heard of a similar system present in RISC-V processors, but I also have not seen RISC-V SBCs that are more than alpha prototype dev kits. Unlike other single board computers, the RK series has the documentation required for community based Linux kernel support. No one could pull kernel support that they are the only ones providing using a proprietary datasheet.

There are many RK3588 single board computers available for around $100 already. As a back of the napkin quality idea using baseless imaginary statistics, I bet we could get around 3-5% of regular users to purchase hardware within a year if it was within a $250 price point. This should be set up for one click image and video hosting, threadiverse, mastodon, file sharing, git, blogging, etc.

This is way outside of the scope of a project I am qualified to manage; I am no real developer, just a sloppy hacker type. I'd volunteer to do a hardware design, or at least the bulk of the tedium for someone more experienced with production stuff to review. I would not mind playing the glue between those that have more limited time. If LW has 6k plus active daily users, and 3-5% of these purchased the hardware, the rough margins are nowhere near a viable business. Still, something in the back of my head says the only thing actually impeding internet freedom with the fediverse is the challenge of self hosting, and this is like the issue that Android addressed with mobile hardware. If people could one-time purchase the hardware, and only pay for their regular internet connection, I think they would buy straightforward honest open hardware they fully own.

I don't know if it is possible, or if the fediverse projects would participate in some kind of automatically updated end point. This was just a fantasy shower thought that I have been mulling over all day. It addresses all of my personal hesitations and insecurities about self hosting, and is simple enough I can imagine my techno illiterate family giving it a try. It is the kind of project I would like to be a part of.

 
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