IMALlama

joined 2 years ago
[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 4 points 7 hours ago (1 children)

Procedural generation of content in games is by no means a new thing. Even if the end state isn't completely procedurally generated, odds are a version of the asset was initially and a human touched it up as necessary. When you're talking about large asset sets (open world and/or large maps, tons of textures, lots of weapons, etc) odds are they weren't all 100% hand made. Could you imagine making the topology map and placing things like trees in something like RDR2?

That's not to say all this automation is necessary a good thing. It almost feels like we're slowly chugging through a second industrial revolution, but this time for white collar workers. I know that I tell myself that I would rather spend my time solving problems vs doing "menial" work and have written a ton of automation to remove menial work from my job. I do wonder if problem solving will become at least somewhat menial in the future.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 46 points 2 days ago

Check the post title ;)

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 2 days ago

I am a bit sad that the available LEDs are so cool color temperature wise. I haven't bought a new light in years (and years and years). As a longtime EC4SW user, I approve of the form factor and the lack of screw on the tail to get the batteries out. The finish also looks interesting.

But that color temperature... Sigh. Will have to ponder for a bit.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 2 days ago

Looks like it's closer to $160 now?

Agree that it's tempting. I wish the LEDs were a bit warmer.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 3 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

Sounds like a fun trip!

and used my 15 year old REI Chrysalis solo tent for the first time in a while. It continues to hold up

A lot of our camping gear is seriously old. A Coleman fuel stove and lantern from the 70s, which still works although TBH propane is somewhat appealing.

Our tent is the same tent I used as a kid - a "3 person" dome from Eastern Mountain Sports, which was basically a smaller scale REI store. The tent must be pushing 30 and is still going pretty strong. It's held up really well to some pretty serious wind and rain on a few occasions too - much better than the newer tents of some of my friends. I low key dread having to eventually replace it.

Our kids are old enough to start camping with us soon, so it's about to see it's third generation.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 2 weeks ago

For ACM - like aluminium honeycomb?

ACM is more of a sandwich. Aluminum, plastic, aluminum.

I have a boring old klicky. It works very for me 🤷

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 40 points 2 weeks ago

Great read, with some amusing asides.

Shots fired!

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 3 weeks ago

We probably have the same model - the one with the big oval stand. Every once in a while I wish it was OLED and/or higher resolution, but it's not worth the expensive or all the modern "features" such as these.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 2 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

You know this, but I'll say it anyway. Discharging = heat and an implementation with no fan will probably result in shorter component life. Granted, someon else could use a quieter fan or a heat sync big enough to not necessitate active cooling.

If you're feeling adventurous, up size those resistors with through hole variety and offset them from the PCB so they get a bit more airflow.

Let us know what you end up with!

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 3 weeks ago (2 children)

I personally am pretty happy with my 2.4, although I would suggest skipping the cable chains and going to an umbilical. I went the nitehawk route. If you're going to be printing ASA or ABS add an under bed carbon filter and bedfans. I would also suggest skipping to ACM panels if you plan on big ASA/ABS prints.

If you dig through my comments you can see me talking about it. Mechanical bed leveling, that actually squares the gantary to the bed, and Z calibration make for very consistent first layers.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 5 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (4 children)

$1,200 is Voron and RatRig territory. Vorons cap out at 350 mm^3^ for build volume and 500mm^3^ rat rigs are $1,550. I agree that plenty of folks are probably over buy on printers, but if you want this kind of build volume the price seems reasonable - especially for a printer that ships assembled. Personally, I went the Voron route and if I wanted a larger printer I would probably either just make my 350mm taller or go the RatRig route.

That said, high velocity on a large format printer isn't that useful for big prints IMO. You're probably going be running a bigger nozzle and laying down wide/tall extrusions, which means you're probably going to be limited by how fast your extruder can melt plastic. That's the case on my Voron with a Rapido HF with "only" a 0.6mm nozzle, 0.8mm extrusion widths, and 0.3mm layer heights.

 

I'm going to have to track down a macro lens for my camera body after selling the micro four thirds kit I was using for bees last year.

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Bath time (lemmy.world)
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by IMALlama@lemmy.world to c/birding@lemmy.world
 

I've seen Robbins around our lawn sprinkler before... I'll have to keep my camera more handy in case they show up again

 

This was about a week or so ago. We're starting to see some bees in the clover now too 🥰

 

Moths need love too!

 

This is a vaguely arty shot I took with my A9ii when I was renting the 70-200 f/2.8.

200mm, f/3.2, ISO 100, 1/800

 

I have a cheap/quick/dirty deer and rabbit fence around our vegetable garden. The doors are simple PVC squares with deer netting that used to attach to the fence via hooks at the top. This design turned out to be very fiddly. The new design seems much easier to manage - simply drop the door section into its slot.

 

/old man

 

So close, and yet so far

 

This is from last august, I just slacked on getting it posted.

I live in SE MI and our bee season hasn't really started yet, but I hope to clear out the remainder of my straggler photos from last year before it starts.

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Brr (lemmy.world)
 

I took this a few months ago through one of our windows. I have a small backlog of photos to get through and hope to do one a day, but some of them might show up on !photography@lemmy.world.

A9ii w/ Tamron 150-500 @ 374 mm, 1/250, f/5.6, ISO 200. Cropped some.

 

No idea what's going on / it's the first time its flowers have ever looked this way. I personally think it's kind of neat.

 

Title basically. I've found myself playing youth sports team photographer, which I don't mind doing but we're going to have two kids in little league this season and I'm not looking forward to culling two team's worth of games. I've gotten better at framing and catching fielding action over the past year, I get pictures of my own kids, and the rest of the parents on the team seem to appreciate the photos, so woo. But! I'm very interested in tips to make the process of culling shots a bit faster.

Each game I try to get a hero shot per kid batting (getting a hit, bonus points if the ball is in frame), along with some general fielding shots. I come home with a metric crap ton of photos since getting a hero shot basically means bursting any time our team is at bat for every pitch.

I try to make sure each kid has roughly equal representation in the final album, regardless of how many (or few) hits each kid actually got.

I've found that it's easiest to sort photos by kid and cull from there, but I'm doing this completely manually in photo mechanic. I've dabbled in AI tools, but I don't really know what's out there. It seems like sorting all the photos with the most prominent face in the frame, and using context of being mid burst if a face is lost, automatically would be a massive time savings. Does such software exist? I don't want to pull out every face in the frame, just the biggest/sharpest one. Is there a better option for youth sports? A better approach to apply in photo mechanic?

Any/all advice welcome!

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