IcedRaktajino

joined 5 months ago
[–] IcedRaktajino@startrek.website 18 points 1 hour ago* (last edited 1 hour ago)

I also thought all TV shows were live and the actors took breaks during the commercials.

[–] IcedRaktajino@startrek.website 14 points 1 hour ago* (last edited 1 hour ago)

And a satisfying but not too jarring "thunk" when they seat in correctly. Plus, the activity light let you know it was safe/not safe to hit the eject button.

[–] IcedRaktajino@startrek.website 3 points 1 hour ago* (last edited 1 hour ago)

Love how tiny that is, but I'm not a fan of the pin layout on those little Xiao modules. The connection pads on the bottom, including the battery connection, are a major pain to try to solder to. If I ever get around to playing with the remaining two I have, I'm gonna try using pogo pins or something instead of trying to solder onto them

Edit: I do really like that it has external antenna connectors for both Wifi/BT and LoRa (unlike my Heltecs). Assuming I handle the battery charging and convert to 5v externally (to avoid dealing with the annoying battery pads) they'd make a great "attic node" (in my case on a mast in the back yard) that could stay connected to my wifi rather than having to remote admin it over LoRa (Slow and not all config options are available)

 

What happens as a raindrop impacts bare soil has been fairly well-studied, but what happens to raindrops afterward is poorly understood. We know that the initial splash of raindrops on soil contributes to erosion, but a new study, published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, finds that the journey of the raindrop downhill might have an even bigger impact on erosion than the initial splash.

Just started Q-in-Law by Peter David. I'm not very far into it yet but it's got Lwaxana and Q so I'm guessing it's going to be "unstoppable force versus ~~immovable object~~ unstoppable force".

[–] IcedRaktajino@startrek.website 7 points 13 hours ago (1 children)

If I remember correctly, the theory was that a heavy hit of adrenaline can lock a memory in for life

So the next time someone gives me directions, I'll jab myself with my EpiPen to see if I actually remember them. lol. Science!

 
[–] IcedRaktajino@startrek.website 4 points 20 hours ago* (last edited 20 hours ago) (1 children)

I don't think that will work. At best, it would split the signal power and neither antenna would perform well. That's not even getting into the RF wizardry which I'm not equipped to fully explain (or understand lol).

The "proper" solution would be to have two Meshtastic units. One in a high place for long range and configured with the "client base" role and the other one(s) with regular antennas optionally in the "client mute" role. The reason for that is they'd likely be able to "hear" the base station one just fine and relay through it and wouldn't necessarily need to rebroadcast locally. If they do, then they can be in regular "client" role.

Since I have multiple units inside, I keep mine in "client mute" when I'm home so they go through my "attic node" and switch to "client" when I'm out and about. The 2.7 firmware makes this easy to switch directly on the device without having to mess with the app settings.

https://meshtastic.org/blog/demystifying-router-late/

Now if you're talking a highly directional Yagi for the high gain/high place antenna, then I believe the general guidance still stands. The newer firmware has some zero hop configuration where you can "pair" devices (via favoriting) and while they still hop the signal, it doesn't decrement the hop count.

https://meshtastic.org/blog/zero-cost-hops-favorite-routers/

Yeah, it's hard to know if people use the word "repeater" colloquially or technically, so I always repeat the Meshtastic warning about that role since it has a high likelihood of being detrimental to the mesh in the area.

Hope you find something suitable because it's a fun project. I only get a few hits each month (less in the winter it seems) but it's cool when you randomly pick up someone from miles away and have a chat.

[–] IcedRaktajino@startrek.website 3 points 1 day ago (1 children)

She's only got a minor recurring role in the later seasons but she plays the hell out of it.

But that show's awesome so yeah, definitely watch it. It's the US version of La Reina de la Sur which I haven't seen because I can't find it on home media here.

[–] IcedRaktajino@startrek.website 2 points 1 day ago (2 children)

I'm not aware of any ready-to-use ones you can buy that are outdoor rated. Pretty much all of the pre-assembled ones I've seen are in a handheld or portable form factor.

For a "repeater" node (note the quotes, explained further below), I've wanted to pick up one of the new 1 W high power Rak Wireless boards (link). Those have a battery terminal as well as a solar input for charging. All you'd need to add would be a PV panel + battery and put it into some kind of housing. I'd also use a nicer antenna than the little stub one that comes with it.

You should be able to put that together without any kind of soldering, though you would need to wire the solar panel output to a battery-style connector to be able to attach it to the board. There are solder-free wire splicers you may be able to use, but it's also a good opportunity to practice soldering as there's little to mess up.

For the housing, you might look for outdoor-rated utility boxes or something like that. Would probably have to drill and seal holes for the antenna connector and solar panel wire, but shouldn't be too difficult. That, or you may be able to get a friend to help with 3D printing a solution.

Now, back to the use of "repeater" instead of repeater. Meshtastic docs are very adamant about only using the repeater role (now "router" role; repeater has been deprecated in recent versions). In all but the rarest and most optimally placed cases, you'd want to be using "client" or "client base" modes as they repeat messages but without forcing other clients to use them (and thus consuming a hop).

[–] IcedRaktajino@startrek.website 3 points 1 day ago (3 children)

I recognized her from Queen of the South lol

[–] IcedRaktajino@startrek.website 19 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

And this printable Altoids tin just feels like salt in the wound 😆

Though it does make sense if you want that form factor / nostalgia but are working with a device that uses WiFi/BT and want to keep the antenna internal. The plastic faux Altoids tin wouldn't block the signal like the real one would.

I guess with so many microcontrollers now offering Wifi and Bluetooth, the end of the Altoids era was inevitable.

 

You used to see Altoids tins used for project boxes for everything imaginable, but since 3D printers became widespread, it's extremely rare to see the tins used for projects anymore. I know a a lot of people in the makerspace who would only buy Altoids to use the tins afterward for their projects. Now, they just 3D print a custom case.

[–] IcedRaktajino@startrek.website 2 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Genuinely curious. Why exFAT? (I didn't downvote you, BTW).

I've not had any issues using ext4 for my Pi's SD cards. Any issues due to improper shutdowns are fixed with journal recovery. I also like to set a fairly high commit time in the mount options (120 seconds usually). Worst case is I lose the last 2 minutes of data, but it seems to work well to coalesce the writes (especially for things like Jellyfin or anything that uses SQLite and does a lot of constant little writes).

 

Specifically I'm using the OrangePi Zero 2W and the Banana Pi M4 Zero (both are Pi Zero form factor), but I figure if it works in a Raspberry Pi it should work in these. Wondering if they're worth the cost, if they work at all, and/or if it's just asking for trouble.

The project I'm working on requires a good bit of storage. It's essentially an "internet in a box" device that has a portable selection of media (Wikipedia dump, music, TV shows, movies, and books) as well as web-based software to view them (Kiwix, MPD+Snapcast, Jellyfin, Calibre-Web, etc) as well as some other utilities (PiHole for DNS/DHCP/ad blocking, Searx-NG, VPN clients and routing, etc).

The OrangePi is currently the working prototype, and it has a 512 GB SD card and a 512GB USB-connected NVMe. Due to a quirky wifi chip, it requires a separate USB wifi adapter to do hotspot. Because of this, it kind of sprawls and isn't very portable without disassembly.

The Banana Pi has a better wifi chip and can do hotspot internally. So to keep my portable server keychain sized, I'd like to outfit it with either a 1 TB or 1.5 TB SD card for its media store rather than attaching a USB->NVMe enclosure. This one also has eMMC for the system, so it wouldn't be booting from or writing logs, etc to the SD card. Most of the data/media on the SD card would be WORM (write once, read many) but would be updated/refeshed periodically.

Would a large 1 or 1.5 TB SD card (Samsung or Sandisk, depending on price) be a waste of money or be a cause of issues?

 
 
 

FWIW, I understand freeze-drying. My question is more about how instant coffee is prepared versus brewing. When you brew coffee, you run the water through the grounds while filtering them out. When you make instant coffee, the grounds just dissolve into it?

What am I missing here?

 

(Generic label used for illustrative purposes)

Instead of having the directions clearly, consistently, and conveniently at the top, it's expects you to unfurl the damn label like a scroll, read through the tiny print until you get to the directions and dosing information.

I've already got a headache. I don't need to be squinting at this tiny text to try to find the one bit of relevant info I need. I just want my headache to go away for a while.

It's not just aspirin, ibuprofen, etc. It seems like everything with a label is like this now.

 
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