Grass

My power button clicks and feels normal. It doesn't work in any situation at all. I can turn on the deck from off by plugging in the cord and if it's already on but screen off I can only wait for it to die or open the shell and disconnect the battery.

This deck has: full shell swap, replaced worn cap and drifting stick with hall effect sticks, aftermarket buttons, replacement screen, aftermarket 1tb nvme, always had L1 require addititonal force after the click to work.

All mods were done at the same time and had no problems apart from L1 for enough time to finish spiderman, miles morales, 80% of FFVIIR, Act 1 of BG3 7 times, All of evoland 1 and 2 plus againnin legendary edition, both god of war and ragnarok, expedition 33 up to the snow area, both subnautica games, and a bunch of friendslop titles in between.

About a month ago power button stopped working and I haven't had the motivation to deal with it but I took it apart a little bit today, saw that the power button likely requires removing the mobo, and went back to not feeling like it.

Has anyone done a successful diy powerswitch repair? Ifixit only has instructions for the plastic piece on top, though the switch itself is probably a generic piece. I'll attempt valve if it's the only option but I don't really want to deal with mailing out the damned thing especially if its just going to get rejected and blamed on the mods.

I'm not really sure how to proceed nicely here.

I have a hole in the wall of the top floor going down into the space between floor/ceiling joists. Middle floor wall is about 2-4 inches offset and not directly under, but the joists turned out to be parallel to that wall and a joist is on top. Is there a sensible way to route the cable?
In a different house the joists went the other way and I was able to just drill up from the lower wall with the flex bit and just grab the dangling wire from a ceiling cutout and reach in between and hook it on the puller in the lower wall but I'm not sure how to handle it this time.

Mostly entirely unfunny bird talking videos ending in the cringiest generated laugh track, but the people sending them didn't realize they was fake even after I pointed out they still had the sora logo just blurred or pixellated. I'm so damn tired

edit: and I guess aliexpress really wants to sell me womens underwear. I probably could have taken a better screenshot...

I noticed this today when I installed windows to use some overclocking tools that have no linux equivalent. I was running minecraft for windows in the background to warm up the air in the pc. Does anyone know what the third minecraft entry is?

I picked up some cheap rims but the part that rests in the dropouts is too wide, I haven't measured it but it looks like it would be possible to use percussive coersion. How dangerous would it be to do that or shave it down just a bit? The fork is aluminum.

I'll add photos when I get back home

could a resin printed fdm toolhead hold out long enough for minimal calibration and printing a new one? I have been considering getting a resin printer for miniatures friends have been requesting and it would be a way to get the parts needed to repair my fdm printers fully at home.

I'm getting a tad frustrated with the movies that get downloaded by my radarr setup. Mostly its the letterboxing being encoded in the file which on an ultrawide results in a full black border. Also just shoddy quality even on huge files.

With anime there is seadex and some reviewers here and there that give opinions on the best release to grab, but is there something like that for movies or is there only trash guides? One of the things that I've seen in anime reviews is that sometimes the bluray is plain old worse quality compared to the streaming platforms. Does anyone know of places where that gets noted?

Should I just download the largest file and get hardware encode and decode supporting gpu? Will I have encryption problems if I self encode from disk rips instead of using media player ready files?

I have a pixel 6a with graphene installed. I want to transfer everything to a second pixel 6a but the digitizer is toast. I tried mouse via usb a to c dongle to get in and back stuff up, but it doesn't work on lock screen presumably until it is unlocked once with the mouse plugged in, as with the new one.

really any backup method that can work will do if there are any.

Is this a thing that I could legally do myself or is there no choice but to suck it up and commit to more than the life expectancy of the panels before roi? We got two quotes last summer that were just not happening mainly due to windows and roof both bedding replacement as well. The current concrete tile is likely to be replaced with a cheaper material.

On the interior it is planned to have a framed bench but rather than interior storage it is wanted for exterior storage with a hatch door that can be pinned open or closed. Somewhat like a tour bus luggage storage.

Would it be sensible to frame this like a low doorway or window? Would it be okay to attach the bench wall side to the header of such an opening?

How is this done and what tools are needed? I'm going to be following a friend's recipe and instructions for a low abv beer, and borrowing the anton eastdens and smartref from work to measure sg and abv. Will I need anything else?

I need a replacement for the white plastic socket that the usb/charge board plugs in to. I used hot air to pull out a drifting stick but that also heated and fell off, and of absolutely fucking course, fell into the floor air vent and went on a grand old slippy slide away.

Does anyone know the actual name for this part? Everything I have tried searching so far is apparently wrong