Oh yeah, and if you’re new to soldering, practice first and use a heat sink between the joint and the plastic that little metal hook goes into.

An appropriate heat sink might be as simple as some needle nose pliers with rubber bands around the handles clamped up close to the body of the inlet.

That design of inlet can take some real heat to start wicking and without a heatsink it may melt the plastic around the barrel.

that sucks, but at least it's through hole. looking at the hardware maintenance manual i'd take the board out before i tried to replace it.

from the picture you posted, make sure you use flux, solder wick and alcohol to clean up the area before you try to solder in the replacement. cleaning up other peoples work is a real pain sometimes.

the screw sizes are listed in that manual, they all seem to be m2 or m3 of various lengths, so you ought to have an easy time finding them. just make sure the screw head profile is the same.

I got ya. It's usually not hard to do. A lot of manufacturers have a plastic housing that's part of the frame of the case to help reinforce the power port. I've seen the power cord break away on these before it messes up the laptop jack. Obviously, not every laptop is so diligent.

After repairing it, if there's room you can cover the area in hot glue and it will help. Hot glue is nice because while it gives a pretty good bit of reinforcement, it's still fairly easy to remove if you have to repair things yet again.