3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
view the rest of the comments
These are all valid concerns, and I'm happy to throw my 2¢ in, if it helps. I've been printing for a while now, (FDM, MSLA) and even went semi-pro for several years (9 printers, 40+ hrs/wk), but still take this with a grain of salt, of course. Every use case is unique, and there are a wide variety of products and methods out there, so don't be afraid to experiment to find what works best for your project. 🫡
That said, I've had better than average success with Rust-Oleum spray varnishes for all but the most demanding/complicated projects. Be patient (don't rush), keep the coats thin/light, always use PPE & proper ventilation (no joke), and test print whenever you feel the need to try a new tech/process out.
So, first off:
What's the PLA model going to be used for?
How durable does the varnish itself need to be for the intended use of said model?
Are there moving parts that need to be masked before spraying so the clear coat doesn't gum up from friction?
Indoor or outdoor use? (ie. Avg temps, weather, etc.)
🖖🏽🤓
Thank you for this. I'm actually trying a Rust-Oleum primer for this, so I'll check out their varnish too. And I'll get setup PPE wise.
Regarding the print, this one is a pirate chest to be used as a money box for my son. Other than the hinge there are no really moving parts, but I expect it'll get banged around a bit, hence thinking I need the clear coat at all.
No worries, that seems fairly straightforward overall in that the abutting hinge surfaces could go unvarnished but sanded, (I'd use dot stickers, if you don't feel like fiddling w/ hand-cut tape pieces) followed by a light dusting of graphite (ie. shave some pencil lead into a creased post-it and then sift it onto them [and into the rod's channel, for inc. smooth action]). The rest can be clear coated to your preference. (leave said masking on until this step is complete & dry cured, fyi [24+ hrs])
FWIW, gloss first and then matte for super durability as IIRC, the gloss particulate is torus-shaped whereas the matte is spheroid, and this method nests them neatly for a better bond. It's how I've sealed my TTRPG pieces for decades, and while possibly anecdotal, the results are night & day in my experience. 🤘🏼