this post was submitted on 11 Dec 2025
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This is the model I used: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4572809

I printed these by using the official orca profile from Creality for Orca Slicer: https://wiki.creality.com/en/ender-series/ender-3-v3/quick-start-guide/how-to-use-orca-slicer-with-ender-3-v3

  1. Why are the squares looking so wonky? Which setting is responsible for this?
  2. I see some spots where the prints moved to other places, but I run bed leveling every time. Is it bed warp, or some other profile setting I need to tweak? I wiped the bed with 70% isopropyl alcohol before I printed this, btw

EDIT:

Looks like the issue was with the wobbly table. I placed it on the floor, reran the self tests, and it's now printing a lot better!

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[–] DigDoug@lemmy.world 7 points 4 weeks ago* (last edited 4 weeks ago) (1 children)

It looks like you've fixed, it, but I'll share my 2c anyway:

Iso takes much longer to evaporate fully than it looks. Even though it's volatile, the texture of the build plate gives a lot of extra surface area for it to cling to. Because of this, I found that waiting overnight after cleaning with iso was a good idea. At least for me, this completely fixed my adhesion problems.

[–] Blue_Morpho@lemmy.world 9 points 4 weeks ago (1 children)

Iso takes much longer to evaporate fully than it looks

If you let iso evaporate it isn't doing anything. The purpose of iso or dish soap is to dissolve oils. If you let the iso evaporate the oils will be left behind and settle back on the build plate.

I use two paper towels. One to wipe with iso, and the other to wipe the iso away.

If you want a fast dry (iso is 10% water) set the bed temp to 100C for a few seconds.

[–] DigDoug@lemmy.world 5 points 4 weeks ago

Of course, but it doesn't all wipe away. The remaining part is what you need to make sure evaporates.