this post was submitted on 11 Dec 2025
49 points (100.0% liked)

3DPrinting

20526 readers
64 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or !functionalprint@fedia.io

There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 2 years ago
MODERATORS
 

This is the model I used: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4572809

I printed these by using the official orca profile from Creality for Orca Slicer: https://wiki.creality.com/en/ender-series/ender-3-v3/quick-start-guide/how-to-use-orca-slicer-with-ender-3-v3

  1. Why are the squares looking so wonky? Which setting is responsible for this?
  2. I see some spots where the prints moved to other places, but I run bed leveling every time. Is it bed warp, or some other profile setting I need to tweak? I wiped the bed with 70% isopropyl alcohol before I printed this, btw

EDIT:

Looks like the issue was with the wobbly table. I placed it on the floor, reran the self tests, and it's now printing a lot better!

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 2 points 2 days ago (2 children)

Printable Area Z Offset = 0mm and Extruder Offset is 0x0mm

[–] dual_sport_dork@lemmy.world 8 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

The goal of your offset is not to be zero. Actually, in a perfectly ideal world that would be impossible because it would result in your nozzle touching and dragging along the surface on the first layer. Your actual final Z offset figure will be arbitrary based on the vagarities of your particular machine including the total overall length of the nozzle and thickness of the build plate, etc.

The actual goal is to achieve an accurate first layer which results in a thickness of 0.2mm or whatever your first layer's height is, with minimal inaccuracy. You have to set the offset of the nozzle from the plate via Z axis adjustment such that there is a (literally) paper-thin gap between the tip of the nozzle and the plate. That doesn't mean just setting it to zero. If setting it to zero actually worked, there would not actually be any reason to calibrate it...

[–] Dettweiler42@lemmy.dbzer0.com 3 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago)

You definitely want to drop your z offset a little bit lower than you would with a smooth plate. The goal is to squish some of that plastic down into the texture of the bed for some extra grip. I always take mine about -0.07 from the auto z offset.

Also, after checking with isopropyl, I recommend hearing up the bed and giving it about 10-15 min