I decided to sand down the top, drawer front, and low shelf edges, but leave the spindles alone. I tried to match the stain but the one I bought (and tried on a hidden area) came out too red, so I skipped staining. Luckily several coats of poly ended up close enough.

Before (previous post):

It has seen some water damage and the varnish is flaking off (especially on the top). But I don't necessarily have the time/energy for a full strip/sand/refinish, especially as this may get dinged up; I'm just looking for a reasonably pleasing look.

Looking at the bare wood that was between assembled pieces, it looks like the piece was stained and then varnished. What's a good way to get the old flaking varnish off without messing up the stain -- Citristip, just sanding? Thinking I'll just put some coats of new polyeurethane varnish on as the new finish. Most instructions I see online are for a really thorough refinishing, so I'm wondering if there's some middle ground that will clean up the worst of the water damage and protect the wood, even if it doesn't look like new.

Closer view of the top:

Another angle below. Very dinged up and the end and legs were missing, but seemed like to much hardwood to pass to.

My family had one from decades ago that's falling apart, so I made a replacement. I went with toothpicks as little dowels to help join the crossbars to their supports, since the flat glue joint didn't hold for all of them.

I had this one on my list for a while, but also recently found a video from 3x3 Custom doing the same project.

I was checking to see how a 3/4" dog hole would look in a vise jaw made from two 3/4" pieces of plywood. Just clamped for the test, but would be glue for the real thing. Interesting to see the hole opened up. And luckily no splitting, but do you think it would work as an actual vise jaw? This is for a Veritas quick release front vise, so the jaw is only supported in the middle.

I had an old can of poly in the basement, and decided to give it a try. Thin crust on top, poured kind of like egg whites. But after mixing with mineral spirits it seemed smooth, and the result on my new plywood workbench top is smooth and fully cured as far as I can tell.

A 2020 Cochrane review that assessed the two clinical trials concluded that "whether adults see their dentist for a check‐up every six months or at personalized intervals based on their dentist's assessment of their risk of dental disease does not affect tooth decay, gum disease, or quality of life. Longer intervals (up to 24 months) between check‐ups may not negatively affect these outcomes." The Cochrane reviewers reported that they were "confident" of little to no difference between six-month and risk-based check-ups and were "moderately confident" that going up to 24-month checkups would make little to no difference either.

Likewise, Nadanovsky and his colleagues highlight that there is no evidence supporting the benefit of common scaling and polishing treatments for adults without periodontitis. And for children, cavities in baby teeth are routinely filled, despite evidence from a randomized controlled trial that rates of pain and infections are similar—about 40 percent—whether the cavities are filled or not.

1/4" piano wire point, random copper pipe ball peen hammered, candle wax buffed finish except for the rightmost one which is tung oil. Took one spindle turning project previously. Following Mike Peace's video.

From "Engineering Explained." He says that as you charge/discharge, the random orientation of microcrystalline structure in the battery combined with expansion/contraction due to Lithium migration results in forming cracks in the particles, which then results in reduced battery capacity. I've been letting my battery get down to 50% or so before bothering to charge back up to 80%, I may default to 70% and charge after every trip instead. (For a Volvo with NMC chemistry I'm not sure if I have "high nickel content" and would benefit form staying below 75% or not.)

I put three DS18B20s on a wire along with three SHT30s on D1 mini shields, all in a cardboard box indoors, for a day.

My conclusion is that the DS18B20s are actually more accurate. My Fluke's thermocouple also agreed with them.

The SHT30s all read several degrees higher, with the one that was at an angle reading a little lower than the others which were flat. When I turned them all on edge their temperatures converged a bit lower but still a bit high. I wonder if some of the spikes from their readings are just microcontroller activity.

I'm hoping to use the Tasmota TempOffset command to adjust.

The DS18B20 (on a Feather Huzzah) seems to miss some rapid changes that the SHT30 (on a D1 mini shield) reports, even though TelePeriod=60 for both. The DS18B20 does seem to report changes within 60s of each other sometimes so I think we're just seeing duplicate values elided, which I do expect.

The thermostat on the wall near them (which they'll be replacing) reports 70F, closer to the DS18B20. I have a thermocouple for my Fluke multimeter which I may try to calibrate in ice water and then use to calibrate the temp sensors, though I'm curious if there's an easier way; or I might not bother since I care more about just setting the climate for room comfort than specific numeric temperatures.

The data path is: Tasmota -> MQTT (Mosquitto) -> HomeAssistant -> InfluxDb. In this case the chart's just in InfluxDb's data explorer, though I have some dashboards in Grafana too (which was the motivation for having Influxdb).