Just a test for my new CNC machine. I got the file from here: Scantheworld and turned it into a relief using ZBrush and Photoshop. The wood I used is cherry and the sice of the carving is roughly 60x50mm.

And toolmaking, the gouge was hand-fashioned from some vanadium steel.

I’m not active enough of an internet guy to remember to actually post stuff - so we’re going back 6 months…

I surprised my daughter (and the entire family) on Christmas morning when they found this waiting in the living room. I hadn’t told my partner I’d been working on anything, kept it quiet.

It’s all just pine, dressed all round. Had to go buy a cheap and nasty jigsaw to cut the doors and opening between floors since my coping saw broke whilst trying to work this (handle snapped clean off, thanks Stanley)

The roof- cut at an angle, turned one piece over and glued it. Then stood like a statue holding it for half an hour pressing it against the ground until it dried enough. Couldn’t think of any other way to hold it tight at that angle -_-

The floors and balcony are all slotted into through dados. Cut, chiseled and then cleaned up a bit with trim router. And I hate so much working pine with chisels! (I’ve since got a bigger router bit that would have made this much easier)

Finished with water based Jarrah stain, with water based acrylic paint on the roof and “bathroom”. Some of that finish is really sloppy, I was still out there late on Christmas Eve trying to get the last few coats on.

A leftover sheet of mdf (think about 5mm) just painted and nailed in as the back wall.

There’s a little set of stairs on the ground floor finished with dark carnauba wax. There’s also a little rope ladder going up to the top floor - was from our pet bird who had left us recently.

A whole mish mash of different ideas here, but I just wanted to make something fun and interesting for my daughter.

For what I wanted to do for her first big Christmas (just turned 3), this turned out better than I thought I could do.

It's super cool and all, but also kind of ominous? I feel like something more inviting might be a better fit.

I'd really love to start making something, even if it's basic. Any tips on where to start? Tools, wood, etc?

I got a good deal on some pecan and i was planning to use it to build patio furniture. I don't know much about pecan and I'm having trouble finding much info about it. Is this a good wood for outdoor use or should i find an indoor project for it?

I decided to sand down the top, drawer front, and low shelf edges, but leave the spindles alone. I tried to match the stain but the one I bought (and tried on a hidden area) came out too red, so I skipped staining. Luckily several coats of poly ended up close enough.

Before (previous post):

I'm working on replacing my porch furniture, and the side table was the worst of the lot so it got replaced first.

I've built a few little tables by now and I've got a lot of the process down. I used this one as an excuse to practice making actual mortise and tenon joints instead of the loose tenons I've used in the past. The mortises that the center brace sits in were chiseled by hand, the others are routed.

I'm thinking of making a couple outdoor-friendly morris chairs to replace those old iron ones. That'll be a minute though.

... they will send your wireless earbuds flying into the dirtiest corners of your work area if you're not careful with the elastic straps.

It has seen some water damage and the varnish is flaking off (especially on the top). But I don't necessarily have the time/energy for a full strip/sand/refinish, especially as this may get dinged up; I'm just looking for a reasonably pleasing look.

Looking at the bare wood that was between assembled pieces, it looks like the piece was stained and then varnished. What's a good way to get the old flaking varnish off without messing up the stain -- Citristip, just sanding? Thinking I'll just put some coats of new polyeurethane varnish on as the new finish. Most instructions I see online are for a really thorough refinishing, so I'm wondering if there's some middle ground that will clean up the worst of the water damage and protect the wood, even if it doesn't look like new.

Closer view of the top:

cross-posted from: https://pixelfed.crimedad.work/p/crimedad/705187000877520551

Is this correct for the updated blade guard on a radial arm saw?

The carriage doesn't go back far enough for the blade guard to fall down behind the fence. I thought the guard was supposed to keep the carriage in the home position until the user lifts it with the lever on the handle. I'm wondering if I did something wrong. Any RAS users know what I'm talking about?

#woodworking #RadialArmSaw #SafetyFirst

@crosspost@lemmy.crimedad.work

Another angle below. Very dinged up and the end and legs were missing, but seemed like to much hardwood to pass to.

I'm guessing this is the result of layers of slathering a fresh layer of finish on these tables. To be honest, I kind of like the look. Any idea what type of finish this might be?

Here's a slightly different angle:

Hi, I'm currently carving a bear out of a maple burl. I'm getting to fine details such as teeth and claws. Does anyone have any recommendations as to how I can stabilize these pieces so they are less likely to break?

A little beer boat, HV Kaljaasi, made for the summer cottage and warm summer days, when you can sit in the lake and enjoy the sun.

Made from various little pieces of wood, sticks, glue and rocks inside the hull for steadying the boat. Swims well, even if it tilts little to the left.

My family had one from decades ago that's falling apart, so I made a replacement. I went with toothpicks as little dowels to help join the crossbars to their supports, since the flat glue joint didn't hold for all of them.

I had this one on my list for a while, but also recently found a video from 3x3 Custom doing the same project.

Maple/mahogany stave drum I made for my drummer.

It's actually just friction fit together in this picture; as I type it's in the clamps as the glue dries. Tomorrow some final touch up sanding and the first of four coats of spar varnish, then a few decades on my front porch under a couple potted plants.

There's an education in all this oak; it looks conceptually simple compared to the shaker tables I've done so far, right? IT AIN'T! Each leg cambers out by 5 degrees in both directions, and that tiny difference make this project SO much more obnoxious than a table with vertical legs. Laying things out accounting for that compound miter at the top and bottom is "fun." The upper and lower frame rails are no longer the same length, they're different but related lengths. That lower panel? Can't be installed with the frame assembled. Hell I didn't even bother attaching it in any way, it's just captive in there.

Unlike the previous tables I've built that are held together with floating tenons, the rails are thin and fit entirely into mortises in the legs, which meant some chisel work squaring the corners of the mortises, so I gained quite a bit of experience with chisels here.

But, another project nearing completion.

I've got 20 of these to carve out, and I've only done a smidgen of carving before. Luckily my boss trusts me enough with his antique carving tools

Before I started carving:

I was checking to see how a 3/4" dog hole would look in a vise jaw made from two 3/4" pieces of plywood. Just clamped for the test, but would be glue for the real thing. Interesting to see the hole opened up. And luckily no splitting, but do you think it would work as an actual vise jaw? This is for a Veritas quick release front vise, so the jaw is only supported in the middle.

I'm trying to make my own window sills in our new house. We have windows rather deep so depth is around 9in and wide - 42/60in. I'm looking at read oak vs douglas fir. Red oak is mainly available in sub 8in cuts. The only one I found in 9in is 3/4 thick. Would that be sufficient to support plant pots or potentially human sitting on them? However Fir I can get in various sizes so I was looking at 1in thick.

Which one would be more practical? Oak at 3/4 or Fir at 1in?

My reading was that fir is sufficiently softer so plant pots may leave imprints etc. or am I wrong there?

I had an old can of poly in the basement, and decided to give it a try. Thin crust on top, poured kind of like egg whites. But after mixing with mineral spirits it seemed smooth, and the result on my new plywood workbench top is smooth and fully cured as far as I can tell.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/15221988

476,000-year-old ancient woodworking discovery rewrites early human history