dragontamer

joined 2 years ago
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[–] dragontamer@lemmy.world 16 points 6 days ago* (last edited 6 days ago) (1 children)

Not from 1950, but is at least as old as 1920.

Telephones gained popularity in the 1890s, so I'm not sure how much older this sci-fi concept of poker telephones could have even existed.

The 1920s was when Telephones were entering mainstream use, and no longer an absurdly rich persons toy. The idea of a poker telephone forcing you to work is more working-class mindset, so I find it hard to believe that the idea would come much earlier than 1920.

Note that the technology for wireless radios was popularized in the 1920s as well. Militaries used wireless / radio communications in the 1900s through WW1 but it could only be afforded by Navy and Battleships (the most expensive military equipment). WW1 Tanks used lol semaphore flags for communication !!!!!!!

As radio got more popular, the marriage of phone and radio would inevitably come up as a sci concept.

[–] dragontamer@lemmy.world 2 points 6 days ago* (last edited 6 days ago) (1 children)

My actual long term goal is to be able to watch Peppe Wurtz and comprehend the episode.

I've also got Deutsche Walle A2 News (news graded at the A2 level) that I'm trying to read and watch, but that's still far above my skill level. I'm better with news than German, so I watch (American) news in English the. Watch the A2 graded news and kinda learn new words lol.

https://learngerman.dw.com/de/kurz-und-leicht/s-69137519


The book was basically the first thing I was able to do (and indeed, level A1 level). Everything else is more like high A2 or low B1 level....

I wouldn't say that it's a goal to read Cafe in Berlin, because I'm actively doing it! It's more of a true and proper exercise.

[–] dragontamer@lemmy.world 133 points 6 days ago (8 children)

We are on the 25th month?

[–] dragontamer@lemmy.world 3 points 6 days ago* (last edited 6 days ago)

Anki is far more grueling than beginners realize. And it's very difficult to predict future work.

Adding new word isn't just work today (maybe 5+ viewings to get Anki to make you think you've learned the word....), it's also multiple showings over tomorrow, later this week and more.

You must change your words/day to something that is doable. Keep an eye on your Anki usage, if it's longer than you want then cut down on your new words/day until you master your current review set.

And always be careful with the new words button. It's more work to learn 20 words than you might realize, so don't double or triple it to 40 or 60!!!!


20 words/day is about 30 minutes of Anki for me, because 80 reviews + 20 new words == 100 cards. But I need around 300 flips to finish Anki.

That's 30 minutes of Anki in practice (a card flip averaging 6 seconds, 10 cards per minute and yes 30 minutes/day).

If I drop down to 0 new words/day, I still have the 80 reviews per day (at least until those old words are mastered). Eventually I get quicker and Anki believes I've learned the words but it can take literally days before your workload decreases.


You must also remember that Anki / Flashcards is rote memorization. Its your "brute force cudgel". You can never truly reach mastery with Anki alone. Anki is great for spelling practice, pronunciation practice (if you have included real-world audio .mp3 with your flashcards)... and if necessary is a forced German -> English vocabulary memorization tool.

Useful skills yes, but language mastery can only happen with reading, writing, listening and speaking. Aka: "Immersion". Anki is great because it helps minimize the time spent on flashcards. If you aren't saving time but instead feel like you're wasting time, then you need to change Anki settings to something more useful.

[–] dragontamer@lemmy.world 4 points 6 days ago

Anki has been used to master Jeopardy, and is also becoming a popular tool in the medical community.

Anki may have been invented for language, but its useful for almost any studying.

[–] dragontamer@lemmy.world 4 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

Another small note on FSRS settings - adjusting the desired retention a little bit can be helpful. Defaults at 90%, turning it down makes review intervals longer, up makes them shorter. For large decks (vocab lists), I prefer it down at mid-high 80s. You want familiarity, not perfection, so less overwhelming reviews can be better.

Depends really. If you are drilling der/das/die genders and spelling, you might want perfection.

But yes, drop the FSRS setting to 80 or even lower for familiarity. If you are focusing on reading/consuming, it's better to focus on familiarity instead.

But if you are studying writing/speaking, you need to set that retention back up to 90 and also aim for perfection on each card.

In general, 90% is closer to perfection and the highest you typically should go. However, medical students have been known to aim for 95% or higher (?!!!!!?!??!!) because they want to pass an exam and then forget about it later, lol.

So even going above 90% makes sense for some communities out there.

Medical students are willing to drill 4-hours per day on their subjects and want near 100% memorization in time for their exam. It's a different kind of learning, but Anki does support that.

[–] dragontamer@lemmy.world 2 points 1 week ago (3 children)

I'm about 1.5 months into my German studies, and I was able to just read the entire first Chapter of "Cafe in Berlin" (beginner story for German-learners, graded A1 and A2).

I think the biggest "leap forward" was multiple weeks of study in Anki, allowing me to reach a vocabulary of roughly 300+ words at the moment. Its not much, but its enough to get started reading these simplest of stories.

[–] dragontamer@lemmy.world 3 points 1 week ago

Feel free to ask me questions here too! Thanks to Lemmy, I can see posts here as well as in the original topic.

[–] dragontamer@lemmy.world 11 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

I wish Anki existed during my SAT days.

Do you know hard it was to learn 1000+ SAT words without Anki back then? I had to use like, a book. And index cards written by hand. My hand cramped up just writing all those words down.

 

Anki is an open-source flashcard app for Windows, Linux, Mac OSX with versions also available for Android and iOS. Unfortunately, iOS version costs $25, but all other versions are free.

Anki is a self-graded flashcard program / app. This makes it a combination quiz-app + timer system. Unlike Duolingo or other programs, Anki entirely relies upon self-grading, but this is more than sufficient for study.

Anki grabs the top cards from a deck (defaulting to 20 new cards per day. Feel free to customize this to whatever fits your needs best). Then each day, it grabs "scheduled review" cards + shuffles in the new cards, and shows you them one at a time. Once a card is shown to you, you the user click a button to reveal the other side.

After the flip, Anki asks you to self-grade yourself on your performance. "Again" means you grade yourself as "incorrect", and Anki will remember this mistake. Because you were "incorrect" on this card, Anki will show you the card again very soon.

If you choose one of the three "correct" scores (labeled "Hard", "Good" and "Easy"), Anki remembers that you've answered correctly, and will schedule the card some time in the future. I'll get to the difference of the three scores later, but consider all three to just be "correct" for now.

The precise time is calculated based on how well Anki thinks you know the card. If you know the card well, "Good" might schedule the card to be reviewed 1 month from now, but if you've made a lot of mistakes with a particular card, then that card will likely be reviewed 1 or 2 days from now. Its all data collected on a per-card basis.

Above is an example screenshot of Anki's memory: every single self-graded score is remembered on every single card, as well as the date and time of each score.

As such, Anki is a system of spaced repetition. The "better" you are with some cards, the less you see them. The "worse" you are with other cards, the more Anki shows you those particular cards you keep making mistakes with. Timer + self-grading == you only see the cards you're doing bad with, while Anki hides the cards you are doing good with.

The Algorithm

FSRS is a new experimental algorithm Anki is using. There's been 6 versions (FSRS-1, -2, -3,... and of course FSRS 6 today). Fortunately, the overall gist has been the same for all 6 versions. Alas, its a lot of blogposts and technical math that's far too nerdy for most people https://github.com/open-spaced-repetition/fsrs4anki/wiki/The-Algorithm. For the math nerds who want to learn the algorithm, study away. But I'll attempt to do a simpler "translation".

Before we get started, click on your deck's preferences and scroll down to the FSRS button. Ensure it is on.

FSRS is simply three pieces of memory being applied to each and every "card" in your Anki decks. Every single card will try to figure out "R", "S" and "D". R is the probability that you've forgotten a card each day. The longer a card goes without being shown, the worse-and-worse "R" gets (this is the value Anki uses to determine when to repeat a card to you, it wants to show you a card before you've forgotten, but after enough time that you had a chance to forget, defaulting to 10% chance of forgetting).

Every single card tracked by Anki has this "forgetting" curve, primarily defined by the "R" aka Retention variable.

The theory is: if you show a card too often, you never really test your long-term memory. Furthermore, its too much extra work to review so many cards. By waiting days, weeks, or months before showing you a card again, Anki saves you time by not overly-reviewing cards you already know the information of. Furthermore, studies have shown that showing you information "right as you are forgetting about it" is the best way to remember (!!!). Any sooner, and you really aren't learning too well, but instead just temporarily holding things in your short-term or medium-term memory.

"S" stands for Stability. The more "stable" a card is, the longer Anki-FSRS thinks it can stay in your memory memory without review. Most "new" cards are assumed to be forgotten about within a day by default. However, as you get the card "correct" over-and-over again, Anki-FSRS will increase stability, thereby causing the longer review intervals. (Maybe showing you a card once every 3 days, then 7 days, then 1.5 months, then 3 months....).

"D" stands for Difficulty. The more times you get a card wrong (ie: when you click the "Again" button), the worse Difficulty gets. Anki-FSRS remembers that some cards are harder for you to remember... in particular the ones you keep getting wrong.

Even if you get a high-difficulty card correct multiple times, Anki "remembers" that you have been forgetting this card, and will show it to you again sooner. Ex: by default Anki will mature a card within 7x correct answers in a row. However, if a card is "difficult", Anki will keep showing you that card 10x, 15x or more, knowing that you need the extra practice.

Or in more math-nerd terms, "Difficulty" is the derivative of stability. The change-of-stability is determined by the "Difficulty" of a card.

Hard / Good / Easy

Hard / Good / Easy all count as correct (ie: increases the stability of Anki-FSRS), but will do different things to your Difficulty score.

"Good" is the default, and Anki recommends that users hit the "Good" button 80%+ of the time. Lets pretend that a particular "Good" answer will result in 1-month timer for a particular card...

"Easy" basically is telling Anki that you don't want to practice with this card anymore (ie: low-difficulty card). After clicking "Easy", instead of taking a 1-month timer... Anki will likely choose a 1.5-month or 2-month timer on the card.

"Hard" is telling Anki that you want extra practice with this card. It increases difficulty, despite increasing stability. You'll see this card again more-and-more in the future. Instead of 1-month timer, Anki might show you the card again within 2-weeks.

Where Anki fits in language learning

Anki was originally developed to help its original programmer learn Japanese. Its not an end-all be-all app however. Anki is only a piece of any language-learner. You must also buy grammar / theory books, as well as write regularly in the new language... speaking and listening and more.

Nonetheless, "Anki" is your cudgel. A brute-force method to try to force vocabulary words into your brain through raw force. You'll likely never gain mastery of the words through Anki... but you can at least become a beginner and learn how to start reading. There's literally thousands, if not tens-of-thousands of words you must learn to become proficient in a language. And that's spelling, grammar usage (gender / der/das/die in German, or maybe conjugation rules and pluralization rules), definitions and more!!

In all cases, Anki can be used as a way to force this information into your brain, getting it ready so that those words can "begin to be learned" when you watch TV, listen to a foreign language podcast or hear those words in a song.

Yes, Anki isn't enough. But Anki is a great tool to get you started. And getting started is sometimes the hardest step for many people.

Remember: 1000 words is beginner level (near 1st grade level understanding), while 10,000 words is roughly high school level. If you wish to be seen as a competent adult in a new language, you must figure out a system to reach those 10,000+ words known. 10,000 words sounds like a lot in isolation... especially because true mastery of 10,000 words includes spelling, grammar (pluralization/conjugation/gender), meaning, and pronunciation. But think about it: 10,000 words is merely 14 words per day for 2-years. Plenty of people have used Anki to jumpstart that kind of long-term forced-learning of words.

My Anki routine

My current Anki deck is the 4000 German words/phrases by frequency (https://ankiweb.net/shared/info/653061995). Anki decks vary in quality but this is one of the better German decks.

Despite that, this deck starts out-of-order. I had to reorder the first 200 words into the correct order (for some reason, words #1 through #200 were actually the least frequent words). After reordering, I hit the "FSRS" button, signed up to AnkiWeb.com and synchronized my Desktop + Phone to this deck through the web-account.

I currently keep the defaults of Anki-FSRS at 90% retention and 20 words per day. I roughly have 80 review words per day + 20 new words, or 100 flashcards to review (front and back). I hit "good" or "again" most often, though some very easy words (ex: "Ich") I do hit the "easy" button on. I rarely hit "hard" at all.

When a card feels poorly made, I always go into "Edit" and improve the card. In most cases, the "English side" of this deck is lacking (ex: "because" either turns into weil or denn). In these cases, I add a German sentence to the English side with the German-word missing, so that the card can become "more fair" as study material. Anki Decks should always be customized to become your own notes.

If Anki gives me a new word, I also check Wiktionary for the proper pronounciation, as well as additional "example sentences" of that word. Anki is NOT a dictionary, its simply a notecard system, and you should rely upon good and proper dictionaries. In some rare cases, I go to German Language Discord and ask the community to help me understand a concept, but in most cases I do try to figure out the word myself.

I also use many songs, kids songs, Anime songs, pop songs and more as my primary source of "Practical German". (Ideally songs harder than Ramstein's "Du Hast", lol). I'm building an Anki deck out of these songs (ex: Backe Backe Kuchen, or "Bake Bake a Cake", a traditional German kid's song, has a list of common ingredients like sugar, salt, milk. Its good vocabulary practice... and also is a good source of practical words for an Anki deck). I also have a beginner German book ("Cafe in Berlin"), with a huge vocabulary list. Fortunately, the author for this book already made an Anki deck and I can just go to to the listed website and download the pre-made Anki.

[–] dragontamer@lemmy.world 4 points 3 weeks ago

You've got equities, debt and derivatives.

Equities are ownership into shares. These are the simplest to understand. You own a share of a company and thus are entitled to a % of the profits (though most companies today choose 0% as their decision).

Debt means funding.... debt. SLABs (student loan backed securities), MBS (mortgage backed securities), bonds (government debt), bank loans etc. etc. These are surprisingly complex in practice but perhaps easiest to understand. There's lots of different details to debt (callable, puttable, tax free, convertible, coupons, notes, bills, bonds, I-bonds, EBonds, 10Y, 3M, overnight repos). But in all cases, you lend money to someone, and later they try to return it to you + a little extra.

Derivatives (usually options but there are many kinds) are new inventions that are more complex. Ignore these as they are very very complex.


That's about it.

The general recommendation is to buy an ETF for equities and an ETF for Bonds. ETF is just a combination of simpler investments that you pay 0.04% to 2% a year for convenience.

VOO takes the 500 biggest companies in the USA (aka the S&P 500) and buys mostly the biggest company and a very little bit of #500.

BND is a similar idea except it's a whole bunch of different debts from across the entire economy.

So buy some equities (mostly equities), some bonds, and leave some cash in a high yield savings account. Done.

Stocks (aka VOO) make the most money on the average, but also loses money the most often.

Bonds (aka BND) makes middle amount of money but rarely loses money.

Cash / savings accounts never lose money (except inflation). But makes very very little. It's still worthwhile to keep necessarily amounts as cash and this you should always be considering how much cash to keep.

[–] dragontamer@lemmy.world 28 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (1 children)

This here is a USB charger. It uses a CPU to figure out if you connected a Samsung Phone for 50W charging, or if it should do the default 2.5W charging profile.

It's processing power? Uhhh, about 4Million clocks/sec with 640,000 bytes of memory. Oh yeah I guess about 5-million bits.

Oh this other thing? That's a mouse. It tells the computer if my hand moved forward or backwards or left or right. It runs a fourier transform over an infrared image and memorizes the desk. It performs a full image process / fourier transform 100 times a second to accurately track our hands and clicks. The USB connection is also a network of networks consisting of a ReedSolomon error correction code for reliable transmission at a bit over 10-million baud transfer rate.


Our real computers are doing... Porn. AI generated porn.


Fun fact: USB Chargers have more processing power and RAM than fucking the Lunar Lander / Apollo Space Program. Figuring out if Samsung phone or not-samsung Phone has so much processing power allocated to the task it's kind of hilarious

[–] dragontamer@lemmy.world 24 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (5 children)

To the protesters yesterday, do you see that the protests had exactly zero impact?

The protests right now are a glorified meet and greet. Most of these folks have never protested before.

But all the pamphlets and people I met proved that we are organizing and spreading ideas. This is how it starts.

The 'protest' part of the protest is just marketing. The actual work is when you meet the local unions and shake hands with the local powers. And no better time to meet them than a 'protest'

Everyone who actually went to the protest knows what I'm talking about. The speakers and such are whatever and just preaching to the choir, but important to draw crowds. The actual work gets done at the tables and booths on the side.

Go to the next protest. Organize. We have 3 years before the next Presidential election, we have 1 year before the next congressional election. The time is ticking and we need to get the grassroots process started. It takes a long time.

22
I wrote a guide to Dungeons4 (steamcommunity.com)
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by dragontamer@lemmy.world to c/games@lemmy.world
 

https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=3573759522

Dungeons4 is a fun RTS/Tower-Defense that took up a few of the last months of entertainment. Its a very "dad-joke" level of low-hanging fruit and pop-culture references, but comedy is often the right way to handle "Evil" plots.

The overall game is to build up an army, head out to the "Overworld" and collect "Evil" by killing Heroes, slaughtering villagers, destroying villages and towns. As your "Evil" gets collected, you can spend "Evil" on the Tech Tree to get more powerful units, upgrades, new buildings, new economic options and... eventually win the map's objectives.

Typical maps take me ~1 hour, though a speedrunner probably can complete maps within 20 minutes, while slower defensive players might take longer. With ~20 maps, you should have well over 20+ hours of gameplay, and then 10 "Skirmish" maps, and multiple (paid) DLC, its a well fleshed out game.

The one downside is a weak set of tutorial levels, and poor documentation/help. There's also very little discussion / guides. So I figure publishing this Steam guide will help any would-be players enter this game.

My guide is rather detailed strategy focused on the hardest of difficulty levels. But this advice likely will help any player on normal mode (which is plenty hard enough your first time through!).

108
Blame Canada (lemmy.world)
submitted 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) by dragontamer@lemmy.world to c/196@lemmy.blahaj.zone
 

https://youtu.be/bOR38552MJA

Our timeline is officially stupider than fucking South Park.

 

I'm doing some Galois Field / Cyclic Redundancy Check research for fun and I've come across an intriguing pattern that I need a data structure for.

Across the 64-bit (or even 128-bit or larger) spaces, I've discovered an interesting pattern relating to hamming distances that I'd like a data structure to represent.

I'm going to need something on the order of ~billions of intervals each having somewhere between 1 item to ~1 billion per interval. And I'd like to quickly (O(1) or O(lg(n))) determine if other intervals intersect.


For 32-bit space I can simply make a 512MB Bitmask lol and then AND/OR the two Bitmask. Easy

But for 64-bit space I'm stuck and a bit ignorant to various data structures. I'm wondering if someone out there has a good data structure for me to use?

I've read over Interval Trees on Wikipedia. I'm also considering binary decision diagram over the 64-bits actually. Finally I'm thinking of some kind of 1-dimension octtree like datastructure (is that just a binary tree?? Lol. But BVH trees in 3d space seems similar to my problem it's just I need it optimized down to 1 dimension rather than 3.) Anyone else have any other ideas or cool data structures that might work?

 

I've been informed of an attempt to consolidate all the Tesla communities into teslamotors@lemmy.zip (for Lemmy.world users, you can still access it here: https://lemmy.world/c/teslamotors@lemmy.zip).

I'm interested in hearing the community's thoughts on this. Consolidation is the name-of-the-game right now in Lemmy, we just aren't big enough to have critical mass especially as tons of different communities are split off like this.

/r/RealTesla from Reddit was necessary in the 2010s where Elon Musk was running popular and it was impossible to get a critical word in about bad Tesla service, the lies from Tesla's sales about their fuel gauges or even have awareness of how explosive Li-ion batteries are.

Today, its becoming clear that Tesla Lies (led by Elon Musk) is the norm. And we can see that today a "general Lemmy" community about Tesla that its possible to be critical about Tesla even on a Tesla-focused community.


That being said: I'm not for closing down /c/RealTesla. We need a "signpost" for the /r/RealTesla Redditors who are beginning to branch off to Lemmy.

But I'm considering leaving a signpost to teslamotors@lemmy.zip, especially since they're more active at the moment about Tesla news. I'll try to keep this community here active as a lifeboat for lost Redditors however.

What does everyone else think?

 

Just a few protests of note happening around the country. I know there's more but these are the instances I was aware of.

 

Tesla protests are beginning to get more organized.

 

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/24780658

https://lemmy.world/post/22892985

/c/technology was the most active by far (more so than /c/cars), so I'll post here again first.

Stats

The following stats are winter tests (10F to 30F. Or -10C to 0C).

  • L1 Charger from Home is 2.05 mi/kwhr (12.0 mi/electric-$$. 17.1c per kwhr home costs) in this deep cold.

  • L2 Charger from Work is 2.8mi/kwhr (14.0 mi/electric-$$. 20c per kwhr work-charging costs).

  • 43 Miles per Gallon gasoline (13.9 mi/gasoline-$. $3.10 gasoline during test).

  • L1 Charger is closer to 2.8 mi/kwhr during 60F (15C+ temperatures).

  • L2 Charger is closer to 3.5 mi/kwhr during 60F (15C+ temperatures).

Conclusion: The cold (10F to 30F) has made the Li-ion batteries of this car SIGNIFICANTLY less efficient. We're at the point where L1 chargers are more expensive than gasoline, while L2 chargers are roughly on part with gasoline.

I recommend anyone who gets an EV to get an L2 charger. Not only for the convenience of far faster charges, but also because of the incredible improvements to cold-weather charging efficiency.


There were some pro-EV fans asking me to more carefully test the gasoline usage in the winter. And now you have the stats. I can solidly say that gasoline is worse during the Winter (down from EPA estimated 48), but not dramatically worse like the electric engine gets.

The above gasoline test was done over an entire week of driving to reach the 200+ miles I thought was needed for a solid test. I performed it by running out of electricity (all the way down to 0%), then driving to a gasoline station and filling up. I memorized the exact pump I filled up at.

Then, after 200 miles across a week, I came back to the same pump and filled up exactly the same. I then counted the gallons that came out of the pump and divided out based on my trip odometer. I was 203.5 miles of driving total with 4.734 gallons reported from the pump.

16
submitted 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago) by dragontamer@lemmy.world to c/technology@lemmy.world
 

https://lemmy.world/post/22892985

/c/technology was the most active by far (more so than /c/cars), so I'll post here again first.

Stats

The following stats are winter tests (10F to 30F. Or -10C to 0C).

  • L1 Charger from Home is 2.05 mi/kwhr (12.0 mi/electric-$$. 17.1c per kwhr home costs) in this deep cold.

  • L2 Charger from Work is 2.8mi/kwhr (14.0 mi/electric-$$. 20c per kwhr work-charging costs).

  • 43 Miles per Gallon gasoline (13.9 mi/gasoline-$. $3.10 gasoline during test).

  • L1 Charger is closer to 2.8 mi/kwhr during 60F (15C+ temperatures).

  • L2 Charger is closer to 3.5 mi/kwhr during 60F (15C+ temperatures).

Conclusion: The cold (10F to 30F) has made the Li-ion batteries of this car SIGNIFICANTLY less efficient. We're at the point where L1 chargers are more expensive than gasoline, while L2 chargers are roughly on part with gasoline.

I recommend anyone who gets an EV to get an L2 charger. Not only for the convenience of far faster charges, but also because of the incredible improvements to cold-weather charging efficiency.


There were some pro-EV fans asking me to more carefully test the gasoline usage in the winter. And now you have the stats. I can solidly say that gasoline is worse during the Winter (down from EPA estimated 48), but not dramatically worse like the electric engine gets.

The above gasoline test was done over an entire week of driving to reach the 200+ miles I thought was needed for a solid test. I performed it by running out of electricity (all the way down to 0%), then driving to a gasoline station and filling up. I memorized the exact pump I filled up at.

Then, after 200 miles across a week, I came back to the same pump and filled up exactly the same. I then counted the gallons that came out of the pump and divided out based on my trip odometer. I was 203.5 miles of driving total with 4.734 gallons reported from the pump.

 

This NEEDS to be saved. People will forget if we don't save this.

 

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/22892955

The Prius Prime is a dual fuel vehicle, able to run 100% on Electric, or 100% on gasoline, or a computerized blend in-between. This presents me a great opportunity to be able to do a direct comparison with the same car of an EV engine vs an ICE engine.

  • Toyota computer claims 3.2mi-per-kwhr.

  • Kill-a-watt (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kill_A_Watt) claims 2.2mi-per-kwhr.

  • Additional 1.5% losses should be assumed in the wires if you wish. (120V drops down to 118V during charging, meaning 2V of the energy was lost due to the resistance of my home's wires).

  • Level 1 charger at home (known to be less efficient).

  • Toyota computer claims 53miles-per-gallon (American Gallon).

  • I have not independently verified the gallon usage of my car.

  • 295 miles driven total, sometimes EV, sometimes Gasoline, sometimes both.

  • 30F to 40F (-1C to 4.5C) in my area this past week.

  • Winter-blend fuel.

  • 12.5miles per $electricity-dollar (17.1c / kw-hr home charging costs)

  • 17.1 miles per $gasoline-dollar ($3.10 per gallon last fillup).

If anyone has questions about my tests. The main takeaway is that L1 charging is so low in efficiency that gasoline in my area is cheaper than electricity. Obviously the price of gasoline and electricity varies significantly area-to-area, so feel free to use my numbers to calculate / simulate the costs in your area.

There is also substantial losses of efficiency due to cold weather, that is well acknowledged by the EV community. The Prius Prime (and most other EVs) will turn on a heater to keep the battery conditioned in the winter, spending precious electricity on battery-conditioning rather than miles. Gasoline engines do not have this problem and remain as efficient in the winter.


I originally wrote this post for /c/cars, but I feel like EVs come up often enough here on /c/technology that maybe you all would be interested in my tests as well.

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