3DPrinting

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3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or !functionalprint@fedia.io

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Fuck. My. Life. 🙃 (i.imgur.com)

submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by la508@lemmy.world to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

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Full brims, mouse ears, with glue, without glue, higher bed temperature, lower bed temperature, flat base, concentric cutout base - whatever I try, I seem to be getting wank adhesion, major warping, and ultimately this shitshow.

Dry PLA, warm room, no draught, plate cleaned with IPA. I'm going to fucking punch this thing in its stupid fucking face.

Edit: Prevailing advice very much seems to be to bust out the Fairy liquid and give it a good scrub, so I'll try that. It's a Kobra Neo 2 so is auto-levelling, so I can't piss around with any of that stuff (as far as I know). Another quick question while I think about it, does everyone always print onto the bed at ~60°C? Because Orca Slicer's default for a textured PEI plate is 45°C, which seems mad. I think I tried it once and it was shite so turned it back up to 60.

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[–] Wfh@lemmy.zip 1 points 1 week ago

Have you tried recalibrating the probe? I had the same issue with my Sovol SV08 where no matter how much I tried, nothing would stick, until I recalibrated it.

Also, how long do you preheat before printing? Depending on the beds material things can move quite a bit with heat. Sometimes 0.01mm can make the difference between a successful and a failed print. Try heat soaking your bed and nozzle at working temperature for at least 1/2h before calibrating and printing to give time to everything to expand.