3DPrinting

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PETG is just as stringy as I was told (files.catbox.moe)

submitted 3 weeks ago by mooklepticon@lemm.ee to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

21 comments fedilink hide all child comments

Yikes. Gonna have to work with this material a bunch to learn how to use it.

Model - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1545913

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[–] BigDanishGuy@sh.itjust.works 24 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (2 children)

First rule of PETG-club is "dry your filament", second rule of PETG-club is "dry your filament"... Thrid rule? Nope, it's "store your filament dry"

Jokes aside, other things you could look at:

nozzle, how worn is it?
calibration tests: did you do a temp tower? Calibration cube? Retraction test?
The vertical surface doesn't necessarily have that appearance as a result of wet filament. In my experience, wet PETG will result in more random variations than that. It looks too regular IMHO, is everything that should be tightened actually tightened?
have you calibrated the extruder steps?

[–] bluewing@lemm.ee 4 points 3 weeks ago

I would bet on retraction here. Dial that in and 90% of the stringing goes away.

[–] SzethFriendOfNimi@lemmy.world 2 points 3 weeks ago (3 children)

Fourth rule… painters tape as bed surface will save your PEI sheets and holds PETG really well.

Or G10/Garolite

[–] Marvelicious@fedia.io 5 points 3 weeks ago

I pop my PEI bed with finished print into the freezer for about 5 minutes. Pops right off, every time. No tape, no glue, I just wash the bed with soapy water between prints.

[–] bluewing@lemm.ee 5 points 3 weeks ago

Or just use a textured PEI plate at the proper bed temperature. There is very little need for special adjuncts to print PETG.

[–] Manzas 2 points 2 weeks ago

Using G10 can recommend if you scratch it up you can just use the other side and if you have a metal probe you can add aluminium tape to the side you aren't using and get full functionality.