cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/15221988

476,000-year-old ancient woodworking discovery rewrites early human history

Using cedar 2x4s cut to 1.5x3. Planning to seal with outdoor polyurithane varnish. Any thoughts on the design thus far?

I'm not sure where the right place to post this would be, but here goes.

I bought this DW745 Type 2 saw off of Facebook Marketplace. I think it was abused. I replaced both of the elevating shafts (5140100-04 Diagram # 82 & 5140100-05 Diagram # 84). I also had to replace both of the bevel gears (5140061-65 Diagram # 56).

The aluminum housing seems to be okay and the lifting shafts move in and out without much resistance. I'm still getting this chunky movement when I raise and lower the blade.

I'm looking for advice before I go though the whole process of replacing the entire aluminum housing (Gear Case A25607 Diagram # 213) on the motor.

Part of a larger project I’m working on, which takes the “waste sawdust” and grows a Reishi mushroom out of it.

I made this from a long piece cherry offcut that I've had sitting around for ages. Here's a better picture of the interesting bit:
https://i.imgur.com/LV0ep0a.jpeg
I'm honestly not thrilled with the finish. I thought I'd sanded out all the little 'scales' the planer leaves, but many came back when I put the oil on.

I realize this is a woodworking community so don’t kill me, but I’m in the process of upgrading my tablesaw with a new fence so it’s somewhat related. Plus there’s no metalworking community that I could find on Lemmy.

To the point: I’ve got a piece of steel angle I want to use for the back rail on my table saw (where the end of the fence rests), buts its Swiss cheese full of holes and some holes are in awkward locations where I need to drill new holes to mount to the table saw to. Anybody dabble in welding know if I could fill in the holes with a mig welder and grind it flat? If so, any tips? I’ve got a flux core mig machine.

I bought the Delta T3 fence kit for my rigid saw because people online said “super easy to install. You only need to drill and tap a hole or two”. That turned out to be bullshit. 😅

As we didn’t find any shelf of our liking we tried to create it ourself. It worked out better than expected, however it obviously isn’t perfect. But as completely laymans we are happy nonetheless.

One cool feature is that through all pieces goes one straight hole, this allows putting lamps on the shelf without seeing any cables.

There are also some decorations of course. And a phone holder in cherry wood (but I’m using the phone). Got a salmon push stick, and the most important thing is a lid to keep dust out of my beverages.

I want to make my own bed, and have several example pictures. Where do people find plans for their furniture?

Well, I guess it could handle stuff a good bit wider than 30cm. Mystery wood, but probably red oak. Just a rabbet on each piece, some hardboard (narrower than the print) to connect them, and commodity hanging hardware. Broke the edges with a hand plane, then a light sanding and finished with Danish Oil.

For some clarity, I did not make the speakers, but attempted to match the wood as closely as I could for the credenza.

To make the space above our massive heater a bit more useful, I hacked together this little shelf from some second hand wood that I bought from somebody in our area. It's made entirely with hand tools and held together by screws and prayers due to the funky shape of the back side of the heater.

I cut the board to the desired length with my hand saw, took off the sharp edges with a small plane and coated it with linseed oil. Then I screwed together the very hacky mounting solution, oiled it too and screwed the board on top. I am quite happy with the result, even if it's very hacky since I am not very experienced :)

Nothing too fancy and not super precise, basically cut a strip of wood to size with a hand saw and made notches for the pieces to fit together using the same hand saw and a chisel. :)

I recently stumbled on to Witco style artwork and came across the piece pictured here. I’d like to try my hand at creating something similar, but wasn’t sure how to approach the boat bodies.

Can anyone identify the type of wood being used on the boats? Would hand carving be appropriate here? Stain used?

I’ve got some experience with a miter saw, circular saw, and sander, but I’m out of my element with such rounded edges. Do I just go to town with a sander? Could I achieve a similar look with a softer wood and the right stain?

More pictures are available here.

I built this garden shed to hold potting supplies and lawn tools for my bonsai garden. It was a fun exercise playing with the nail gun and I didn't even stab myself. The shed definitely is not plumb or square, but it hasn't fallen over yet so I'm pleased.

A simple shaker style table in white oak, finished with spar urethane and kitty approved.

The breadboard ends on the panels were an education on this one; on the top they aren't strictly necessary, but I felt they were needed on the lower panel so that the movement of that captive panel wouldn't rack the legs. Found out I prefer making the tongues with a router rather than the dado set on the table saw.

I made a joiners mallet. I’m trying to challenge myself by only hand tools. The wood was found in the basement; I think hickory head and I have no idea what the handle pieces are. The handle and head were each laminated and the handle was mortised in, wedged, and glued. I rounded out the handle with a spokeshave and rasp.

There are plenty of things I could have done differently, but I’m just glad I pushed myself to finish it. And now have a fairly heavy-duty mallet, so I dont need to swing on the chisels as hard. I think if I were to make another one, I would find a single block of wood for the head instead of laminating cut pieces.

My cousin's girlfriend (they're both trades workers) recently brought up that she'd like if I (a woodworker) could make her some handles for her work files, as they're currently bare metal. At the time, I mentioned I'd probably use maple to make them, since maple tends to be more figured and visually appealing.

However, I picked up three pieces of hickory today for a figurative steal (I got them for $1 each). I know hickory is the gold standard for axe and hammer handles, but would they be a good choice for file handles? I imagine they would hold up better than maple since hickory is harder, and could potentially help with vibrations while using the tools, but if it's basically a moot point with such a small handle, I'll just got with what she'd find more aesthetically pleasing.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.zip/post/13006095

I didn't care much for the blocky IKEA table we had so I made one with similar dimensions inspired by Alexandre Chappel's design.

I would like to wood burn some designs into a nightstand but may want to add more burning down the road, after I coat it with shellac. From what I could gather, people mentioned to only burn and then seal, otherwise the burning after the shellac could cause issues, like releasing inhalants. Is that really an issue with shellac since it is “natural”?

1/4" piano wire point, random copper pipe ball peen hammered, candle wax buffed finish except for the rightmost one which is tung oil. Took one spindle turning project previously. Following Mike Peace's video.