hereiamagain

joined 1 month ago
[–] hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works 2 points 3 hours ago (1 children)

I would love to have a copy of this circuit!

I imagine adding more capacitance not only increases the run time at night under a light, but also the charge time. How did you decide on a good value?

Very cool!

Have you looked into lithium capacitors? Here's one built into a charging circuit. Kind of interesting

[–] hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works 2 points 4 hours ago

I was all geared up to make my first solar node, got a rak and a solar panel, put an 18650 in it. I was doing some testing to see how long it would last on my bench without sun. I got distracted and the voltage got lower than the rak liked, and then it just... Never came back. Wouldn't wake up again, not with solar power or adding additional external power. I'd probably need to disconnect and reconnect the battery. But I never tried that, because the point was that I wouldn't be able to.

Before this, I had already been researching and thinking about different methods, and I had already wasted some money on some ill-planned hybrid lithium capacitors. I also had some disappointing range tests from the local hill. Plus I was trying to get my buddies on board and they were dragging their feet.

So this was the last nail in the coffin. You can't have a device enter a non recoverable state when it's 40 feet up in a tree at the top of the tallest hill in town. Just bad design.

That stupid thing is still sitting on my desk, almost a year now. I lost all interest, unfortunately.

I'm sure I'll come back to it, eventually.

But yes, in my experience, rak doesn't like low voltages, and will likely get stuck in an unrecoverable state.

 
[–] hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works 1 points 5 days ago (1 children)

What was it? Op deleted his comment

Yeah if it came to that I would, but I'd like a not elegant repair first.

Looks aren't an issue, but I feel like I'd feel that lump of polish

Thanks for the recommendations!

Very cool looking, I will consider this thank you! I had no idea

I recently learned what that means from perusing this community haha

[–] hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works 4 points 5 days ago (1 children)

Holy cow thanks for all this extremely specific instruction! I will look into it and report back!

 

This is a lightweight wool shirt, smartwool brand. I think it's 90 or 100 percent wool, I forgot to photograph the tag.

I use it as a base layer while camping, so looks aren't that important, but I don't want it to fall apart.

I got a couple of snags on my last trip, and I poked most of them back in without issue, these two were bigger and I tried stretching the fabric slightly to pull them in. I did it gently, but they both broke 🫠

Should I use a patch? Or sew a few loose stitches to hold things together? Or just leave it alone?

The underside of the shirt is bright orange, the hole is only the top layer, if that makes sense?

Thanks!

[–] hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works 16 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (1 children)

Yep. And for me, it changed. I played fps on controller my whole childhood, I was always standard. I started playing less controller and more mouse and keyboard as I got older.

A few years ago I started flying fpv drones.

Recently tried to use a controller again? Whoops I can only play inverted now 🤷‍♂️

No worries thanks for the information!

[–] hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works 1 points 2 weeks ago

That's good to know thanks!

 

I loved this glass bed. After so much time trying to get anything to stick to the stock ender 3 bed, this glass bed has things sticking almost TOO well.

It was fine enough for PLA, but I've been playing with PETG lately and it sticks a little harder.

Well today I printed the entire bed flat for a little hiking table I'm experimenting with.. and this happened when I tried to get it off...

Suggestions for replacement? Should I go glass again? I don't have bltouch so I like how flat glass is, set it and forget it. But I've seen those magnetic plates that allow for super easy removal but just flexing the plate, but this bed is aluminum I think. Plus that seems similar to the stock ender 3 plate that I despise.

 

I made this test block to test the fit on some holes (my printer isn't calibrated), when I noticed the problem. The cone on the side was a sanity check for this problem.

I tried googling but couldn't come up with this same problem.

Edit: I did just figure out a way, I made them a union group, which applied the cuts immediately, and they stayed when exported. I’ve never had to do that before. Though admittedly that's probably the right way, I normally use fusion360. Something is definitely weird though. It should just work without doing that. And in fact it did a few days ago on a different project file.

 

The screen swap was easy peasy, the hardest part was getting the old screen out. Mine was already broken, and I wasn't keeping the front plastic, so I didn't have to worry about being too careful, except around the top edge where the mics and ambient light sensor are.

The case swap was a bear, took forever. I'm fairly handy, but the whole process took almost 4 hours. My buddy was doing his in tandem with me and he was over 5 hours, and that's with me lending a hand towards the end.

It looks great, in my opinion, and I'd do it again, I'd just start earlier in the day 😬

As far as the OLED goes, so far it looks good. The stock brightness slider isn't working, it must be a software thing? I have had zero time to look into it. I haven't even played a single game on it since doing the swap. I'll report back when I have time to give it a fair shake.

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