boredsquirrel

joined 1 year ago
MODERATOR OF
[–] boredsquirrel@slrpnk.net 1 points 4 hours ago

Reminds me of this post

My attempt of reducing the insane UI buttons everywhere to make it a bit cleaner

It is still way too much, and unlike other Qt apps (like QGIS for example) the panels are not all configurable.

I am sure it is really great software, but this cosmetic issue makes it extremely overwhelming to newcomers. People just dont expect this load from anything.

[–] boredsquirrel@slrpnk.net 1 points 16 hours ago

Ist fertig, auf jeden Fall sehr robust, schau mal in den Post oben :)

 

I had a pretty sturdy wooden desk, top just polished and waxed, nice drawers too... but I wanted it to be a standing/sitting desk.

These "laptop hight adjusters" didnt do it for me, also I wonder how it would work as for me the difference is pretty big.

I searched for a matching frame and made a post in !kaufempfehlungen@feddit.org.

1. Cleanup

I removed the legs and drawes from the table, made space in the area

2. Frame

I got a 160kg one from Flexispot, which sounds overkill but this should hold me + the table + some stuff. You never stand on your desk to do stuff?

The package was heavy, poor delivery guy. Should have gotten him a snack to go.

Assembly wasn't hard, maybe 40min? The rest was way more

3. Issues

The screws connecting legs and top frame didn't really match, as the holes on the inside were shorter. I swapped the 4 with 4 shorter screws used to screw the "feet" onto the legs, which could only use the longer ones. No big deal but an oversight.

The frame was also too long to tightly match my tabletop, so I disassembled one part and shortened the metal tubes just the right amount so they fit exactly next to the boards on the outside of the drawers (you will see).

4. Tabletop adapter

This frame is made for flat tabletops, so I took one leg of the table, shortened it as much as possible and sawed it in half (Less useless weight at the tabletop is always good).

This is why the frame needed to be shortened to tightly match.

I attached the "adapters" to the outside of the "drawer holders", with 2 screws into them, and 2 short brackets to the tabletop.

Of course, for each hole I pre-drilled with a smaller drill to reduce force on the wood and avoid ruptures.

Looking at it, a few more brackets could be good. But in the other hand, I dont really apply horizontal force?

5. Assembly

I screwed the frame onto the adapter, which made a tight connection to the tabletop.

Now the 2 motors at the top of the frame needed their cables connected to a controller, which was connected to a charging brick.

The manual meant them to be inside the frame, screwed onto the tabletop, but this didnt work with the drawers. So instead I used the nice fiber-enhanced tape (used in packaging of the cables on the motors) and guided the cables to the back of the tabletop, screwed the controller on there.

The charging brick is held with a velcro strap for some reason, which was glued to the tabletop as well.

Now the little control interface (which looks nice and pretty high quality (but plastic of course) needs to be placed somewhere in front of the tabletop. It is connected to the controller via ethernet and a power cable. The power cables look similar to the ones on a PC.

I guided it alonside one side, tied the cable down with some tape, used a hook and a screw to hold it in place nicely, used the metal plastic-covered-wire thingy from packaging to attach the cable to the hook gently.

6. Result

Even though the cutting of the leg wasn't perfectly clean, it works and is very sturdy but not too heavy.

I turned it around, connected the power, and it worked!

ℹ️ Note

Always test the motors and stuff before sawing off random parts XD

The control is easy, I was able to set a sitting and a standing hight which can be switched with a button press now.

The controller seems to go into sleep mode when not used, meaning a low power draw. I could test this further though.

It is rock stable, which tells me it was a good idea to get the powerful variant (2 motors, 2 moving elements instead of 1).

The motors are reasonably silent, I already assembled everything, glued my plug strip onto the table (to leave room to the wall while preventing it from falling down). Noice!

I also need to find a solution for the corners (where the legs were). I may not care anough to put something there though.

Easter eggsOn the table you can see my pen holder made from a cool piece of log.

On the bottom there is also my bin with 3 segments for paper, plastic and litter, made with cardboard and tape.

7. Oversights

The screws didnt match the actual length, luckily I could just switch them without needing to manually shorten them.

There is a metal sheet meant to be a cover of the frame. But while the frame is adjustable, the sheet only has 2 holes and only fits in a very wide position, not even the minimum without me shortening it.

I may shorten it or may not, it is kinda useless.

[–] boredsquirrel@slrpnk.net 2 points 5 days ago (1 children)

Uhm you can use this to actually make the CW useful, and put it at the beginning ;)

TitleText
[–] boredsquirrel@slrpnk.net 8 points 5 days ago (1 children)

Damn people pay that much? I get why people pay seedboxes, such a win

[–] boredsquirrel@slrpnk.net 5 points 5 days ago (4 children)

Hat jemand jemals solche Marken gebraucht?? Ich check Marken nicht

[–] boredsquirrel@slrpnk.net 3 points 5 days ago* (last edited 5 days ago) (9 children)

I didnt get it. Your manager replied instead of if?

[–] boredsquirrel@slrpnk.net 18 points 5 days ago

That site sucks (Checking if your "connection" is "secure")

    Robotaxi drives into oncoming lane
    Rider presses “pull over”, Robotaxi stops in the middle of an intersection, rider gets out while Robotaxi blocks intersection for a few moments
    Rider presses pull over and the car just stopped in the middle of the road. Safety monitor has to call rider support to get car moving again
    Robotaxi doesn’t detect UPS driver’s reverse lights (or the car reversing towards it) and continues to attempt to park, then safety monitor manually stops it
    Robotaxi cuts off a car, then randomly brakes (potentially because of an upcoming tree shadow?)
    Robotaxi going 26 in a 15
    Robotaxi unexpectedly brakes, possibly due to nearby police
    Robotaxi unexpectedly slams on brakes, causing rider to drop phone
    Robotaxi comes to a complete stop after approaching an object, then runs it over (rider says it’s a shopping bag, though the car visibly bump up and down)
    Robotaxi runs over curb in parking lot
    Safety driver moved to driver seat to intervene
[–] boredsquirrel@slrpnk.net 2 points 6 days ago

Ooh ja logisch, der Tisch wiegt dann wohl eher 55kg und nicht 110.

Wenn ich ein Bein anhebe, schwebt ein anderes ja in der Luft!

Naja, vielleicht ist ein extrem überdimensioniertes Gestell ja haltbarer 🫠

[–] boredsquirrel@slrpnk.net 2 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

Damn, krasser Preis 🤯

Fürs Archiv: Marke Panana, Shop LJPMöbelgeschäft

[–] boredsquirrel@slrpnk.net 1 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Ja gibt verschiedene Modelle. Das was ich genommen habe ist viel stabiler, also eher nicht vergleichbar mit den billigen, mit denen sie angefangen haben. Nur die Elektronik wird halt interessant

[–] boredsquirrel@slrpnk.net 1 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Habs mal hinzugefügt! Flexispot war wohl in der Vergangenheit ein arger Billiganbieter, soll sich aber seit einer Weile verbessert haben.

Dein Modell sieht identisch zu dem aus, das ich jetzt gekauft habe. Auf herumspinnende Elektronik hab ich halt gar keinen Bock (und hatte solche Probleme tatsächlich schon woanders!)

Mal sehen!

[–] boredsquirrel@slrpnk.net 2 points 1 week ago

ist auch stäbchenverleimt und wie gesagt echt klobig. 2,8cm dick!

 

Update: hier ist mein Ergebnis, sehr nice geworden!

Seit ich die verwendet habe möchte ich auch einen.

Habe einen ziemlich klobigen Eichen-Leimholzschreibtisch (ähnlich diesem hier), den ich mit 2 Klötzen darunter (vllt sogar die original Tischbeine) für so ein Hubgestell anpassen könnte.

Ich mag die Tischplatte, 70*140cm, frisch geschliffen und gewachst und er hat 2 Schubladen, deswegen würde ich sie gerne behalten.

Mit normalem Krempel drauf wiegt er ca. 110kg, 3 Beine abgezogen immer noch locker 100kg. Mit draufgestütztem Menschen wird das also mehr (wobei man sich beim Stehen -- wo er am empfindlichsten ist -- ja viel weniger draufstützt).

Habe ein bisschen gesucht, und die Gestelle wirken mir ziemlich teuer?

Kennt ihr gute Hersteller? Am besten mit 2 verschiedenen Höhen, muss aber nicht. Sollte robust sein.

Ergebnisse

  • Deskspace 100kg, 300€, wahrscheinlich eher wackelig, sieht aus wie das 100kg Modell von Flexispot
  • Flexispot 100kg, zwar billig aber laut Bewertungen wackelig (also bei Oberlast ein nogo!)
  • 👍 Flexispot E6 160kg, rabattiert (?) 250€, normal 500€? Soll super stabil sein und sieht insgesamt robuster und hochwertiger aus, 3-stufig usw. Scheinbar bekommt man das Gestell nur über Otto, sie selbst verkaufen (in ihrem grausigen Onlineshop) nur welche mit Platte.
  • 🫳 Linak 160kg, 400€, auch die hochwertigere 3-stufige Variante.
  • 👍 Panana 120kg über eBay LJPMöbelgeschäft, unter 100€, wohl recht gut

Die Gestelle kommen wohl in Einzelteilen, sind also auch ökonomisch zu liefern.

 

Ich habe ein Chromebook und möchte darauf nen Haufen Filme lagern, auch um es evtl als Smart TV zu verwenden.

Das Chromebook hat Linux und 128GB speicher, auf die SD kommen die Filme, dann kann ich nen "TV" user erstellen, den alle unproblematisch nutzen können, ohne Passwort usw.

Suche also eine Karte mit guter Haltbarkeit und Preis

 

I got 2 Stadia controllers and they are pretty nice!

They work well, but also have issues

  • they appear in lsusb and I have installed the official udev rules (using the NixOS option), but do not appear in Yuzu (the only working Switch emulator, using an archived Flatpak from 2024)
  • they constantly go into some form of suspend mode, I think pressing the Stadia button takes them back? But not sure. As there are no configs, there seems to be no way to disable that, unless one would customize the bluetooth firmware image
  • when they are below 40% or so they disconnect all the time. When they are charging too I think, so they are unusable in that state
  • somehow yuzu loses the configs for them all the time, so I need to configure them again and again. Not that bad as Switches support "pro controllers", but I am planning more games that would require more setup.

I guess using them over bluetooth could work.

Here are the used udev rules to flash, but they didnt work so I used Windows💀

services.udev.extraRules = ''
### Google Stadia Controllers
KERNEL=="hidraw*", ATTRS{idVendor}=="1fc9", MODE="0666"
ACTION=="add", SUBSYSTEM=="usb", ATTR{idVendor}=="1fc9", MODE="0666"
ACTION=="add", SUBSYSTEM=="usb", ATTR{idVendor}=="0d28", MODE="0666"
# Flashloader
KERNEL=="hidraw*", ATTRS{idVendor}=="15a2", MODE="0666"
# Controller
KERNEL=="hidraw*", SUBSYSTEM=="hidraw", ATTRS{idVendor}=="18d1", MODE="0666"
SUBSYSTEMS=="usb", ATTRS{idVendor}=="18d1", ATTRS{idProduct}=="9400", MODE="0660", TAG+="uaccess"
'';

Maybe I need to disable those udev rules to use them over USB? Bluetooth is just a bit unreliable, that I just want USB.

 

Ich habe empfindliche Ohren. Suche also nen Gehörschutz für Kino und Konzerte (in der Bahn habe ich Noise Cancelling Kopfhörer, beim Arbeiten benutze ich Ohrschützer).

Bisherige (generelle) Ohrschutze

Ich hatte schon "EarRockers" mit verschiedenen Filtern, welche aber meiner Erfahrung nach Quatsch sind. Habe immer den stärksten benutzt. Nicht zu teuer, ein Ersatzstopfen.

Hatte auch mal diese absurd beworbenen (und Suchmaschinenindizierten) "Calmer" von Flare Audio, die aber fast gar nix gebracht haben, und auch nicht wirklich gut saßen. Zurückgeschickt und die Kapsel behalten XD Danke für das Geschenk /s

Danach hab ich mir welche von Amazon gekauft, mit 3 von diesen Siliokon-Halbkugeln. Sitzt eher unangenehm nach ner Weile, hab deswegen den vordersten abgeknipsts, dann sind sie wie alle anderen.

Beide sitzen aber nicht perfekt, der Ton ist auch nicht wirklich gut und durch den Sitz extrem variabel. Aushaltbar, aber nicht gut.

Suche

Wenn ich nach Gehörschutz suche, finde ich Produkte von 120 (meist nur für Schnarchen) bis 180€. Scheinbar so nach Schmerzensgrenze teurer. Scheint mir, dass alle die aktiv damit im Internet werben, ordentlich Geld haben wollen.

Sehe irgendwie nicht, für ein bisschen Silikon so viel zu bezahlen, vor allem da es ja wirklich nur ein kleiner Komfort-Vorteil ist. Ist aber eben auch ein guter Komfort-Bonus, vllt trage ich sie auch so mal, da wären 100€ schon schmerzhaft aber okay.

Durch Maßanfertigung weiß ich auch nicht, ob Ersatz mit drin ist, falls man mal einen verliert.

Kennt ihr gute Anbieter? Einfach die Akustiker vor Ort abklappern?

| Anbieter | Preis | Kommentar | |


|


|


| | KIND Eigenmarke | 125€ | Schlafen, Lernen, Reisen? Marketing oder wirklich nicht für Musik? | | Alpine MusicSafe (über Kind) | 230€ | Absurd teuer, auch MotoSafe kosten 195€ | | Geers (angepasst) | 99-190€ | Dubiose Angabe, genauere Infos kommen vllt noch | | EARfoon | unbekannt | keine Preise, suspekt. Fokus auf Firmen. |

...

 

Ich habe eine Linux-Einsteigergruppe auf deutsch erstellt! Das Ziel ist, ohne Sprachbarriere ausschließlich bei Linux zu helfen und darüber auszutauschen.

Fortgeschrittene willkommen, um Wissen zu teilen!

 

Ich habe eine Linux-Einsteigergruppe auf deutsch erstellt! Das Ziel ist, ohne Sprachbarriere ausschließlich bei Linux zu helfen und darüber auszutauschen.

Fortgeschrittene willkommen, um Wissen zu teilen!

 

Blog Post

The video is a commentary with examples

 

There are a ton of people using EOL (end of life) Windows versions, which is kinda scary. Not few of them do so because Microsoft has made updating something negatively associated, which is also incredible.

Updating software is essential, please do so. If you don't want to and don't need Windows-only software, there are a bunch of penguin people that happily guide your way through Linux.

I recently installed Win11 for a friend who needs Adobe software, and I think I have achieved a near perfect result, with minimal hassle.

This guide will show you how to do a clean install of nearly unchanged Windows 11, and adapt it with a few free and open source tools, to be less invasive and resource intense.

If you don't want to reinstall, the german tech news channel Heise has made a Registry hack that allows upgrading normally to Windows 11, if your hardware is unsupported.

ℹ️ Update

Microsoft fucked with the "online account bypass" method, so now the batchfile is removed. The commands can still be executed manually. Expect a Rufus update soon, to address this. Brodie Robertson's Video, Microsoft Announcement, X post

Alternative:

  1. Shift+F10
  2. start ms-cxh:localonly

The following guide uses Rufus to disable these checks.

Prerequisites

  • Windows 10 machine
  • 2-3 pendrives / USB-sticks with 4 and 9GB storage
  • external backup drive (e.g. a SATA SSD in a USB case like this one)
  • internet connection

If you have a lot of drives, remove all of them apart from the one where Windows is installed.

1. Backup

No backup no mercy, now is the time to do it.

To do this, you best use an external drive that you can remove from the computer. So I recommend a big enough SATA SSD in a case, they are extremely reliable and cheap. I use a Crucial SSD, but also others which never failed on me.

Do not use any encryption tools made by Microsoft (i.e. Bitlocker), as you likely cannot get data back without Windows, and maybe even on another machine. Instead, we will use a different tool.

1.1 Filesystem

Windows is a very limited OS, and it only supports a handful of useful filesystems.

Normally Windows would format external drives with NTFS, which can be read on Linux, but not on macOS.

For a full backup, exFat would be okay, as it supports files bigger than 4GB (unlike Fat32, the default USB stick format). But I don't know how to format a drive with that filesystem and don't bother.

UDF is better suited for this job though. Like exFat it works on Linux, MacOS and Windows and it is mainly used in DVDs. UDF is more resistant to data corruption and fragmentation (relevant on spinning hard drives). Windows supports it, but does not easily allow creating it, so you need a Linux live USB too create a medium.

Formatting the external drive will remove all data, so make sure to copy it over to the current system first.

Optional Steps

1.1.1 Live Linux environment

If you choose to use the more advanced UDF filesystem, it is easiest to create it using a Linux "Live USB stick". As we need this tool later anyways, we install Rufus, to write .iso files to USB sticks.

Now we need a good Linux variant (distribution, desktop) to do this, I find Fedora with the KDE Plasma desktop to be the easiest and most powerful. Fedora recommends to use their "Fedora Media Writer" and it works well, but Rufus is also fine and needed for Windows.

1.1.2 Download

Download Fedora with the KDE Plasma desktop here. On a standard PC, you need the x86_64 or amd64 variant, so here we choose Fedora-KDE-Live....

Note that 41 is the current version (March 2025) and Fedora releases a new version every 6 months. So you should use the updated URL following this scheme

https://dl.fedoraproject.org/pub/fedora/linux/releases/NUMBER/Spins/x86_64/iso/

# for example

https://dl.fedoraproject.org/pub/fedora/linux/releases/42/Spins/x86_64/iso/

Steps

  • Download the .iso file
  • Plug in a min 4GB USB pendrive / stick
  • Install and open Rufus
  • Select the Fedora .iso file to write
  • Write the ISO

1.1.3 Turn off the PC

Once finished, turn off the PC. Windows does not really turn off all the time, which is the cause of battery drain on laptops and will prevent the following steps. If you cannot physically remove the battery or remove all power, open Powershell as administrator and run this command

%SYSTEMROOT%\system32\shutdown.exe -s -f -t 0

You can also open the text editor, enter this command, and save it as shutdown.bat on your desktop. Then you can to a real shutdown by clicking on the file.

1.1.4 Boot into Linux

Turn on the PC, now you need to know the key to press to show the boot menu. Try F1 to F10, if Windows boots, shut it down using the power button. Repeat until you see "Fedora Linux" as boot option, select it using the arrow keys and Enter.

Some laptops (like the Acer Swift 3 I used) seem to not have a boot menu, so you need to enter the BIOS settings, go to boot options and set the flashdrive as first option.

Now Linux is starting. As this is an installer system, you don't need a password and will be presented with a KDE Plasma desktop!

Fedora KDE Plasma demonstration

1.1.5 Format the backup SSD

Plug in your external backup SSD and open the app "KDE Partitionmanager".

KDE Partition Manager UI

Select the correct drive (should be detectable through the size).

Use the button "New Partition Table" and select GPT.

Now create 1 or 2 partitions. If you want to use Linux later, you can create a backup partition for Linux here.

For the Windows backup partition:

  1. Right click, New partition
  2. Filesystem UDF
  3. Name: Backup-Windows
  4. Size: how much you want, default is max, you can use half if you want to also store Linux backups here

For the Linux backup partition (if you want)

  1. Make sure to have space left (step before)
  2. Create a new partition
  3. Filesystem EXT4, BTRFS or XFS. BTRFS is good if you use a spinning hard drive, otherwise use EXT4
  4. Encrypt the drive, use LUKS2, set a password. Make sure to use a password that you can type in QWERTY layout, as it might be used in some steps in the boot process by default.
  5. Size max

Then use the "Apply" button in the top left to change the disk. If you don't do this, no changes will be done.

Example:

screenshot of how the disk would look like

Now you can turn off the Linux system again, remove the pendrive and boot into Windows again.


1.2 Encrypted Backup location

As we want to avoid storing our data without encryption, but also want to prevent Microsoft from locking us out from our own data, we do not use Filesystem encryption and instead use free tools that work on Linux, Windows and macOS.

We can use Veracrypt or Cryptomator. Veracrypt is old and reliable, Cryptomator also works well and is optimized for cloud storages, as it encrypts files as small snippets.

Both tools have passed security checks (audits) and can be used, but Cryptomator is a bit easier to use and might perform faster for updates, due to how it encrypts files.

  • Download and install Cryptomator from the website
  • Plug in the backup drive
  • Open Cryptomator
  • Create a new vault
  • Select a place in your backup drive
  • Set a password
  • Unlock the vault and open it.

Now backup all your things in here:

1.3 Backup

Make sure to copy Downloads, Images, Documents etc.

If you dont want to lose appdata, you can use this known trick to view it. Press Windows-Key+R and type %appdata%. The filemanager will show the folder where many apps save their configurations, Firefox profiles and more. Copy what you want to the backup drive. Do not compress it if you want to regularly back it up.

2. Download Windows ISO and Software

Download the Windows 11 ISO from this website. Do not install the "Media creation tool", as Rufus has additional features.

Meanwhile, download a bunch of software for later use

Check on "Alternative To" for alternative software you might need.

Optionally you can also use tools like Portmaster but this will create a more complex system to manage, if you want profound privacy improvements.

Do not pretend that Windows is a secure system where you can safely store personal files and do private browsing. Use this system as an appliance and no more.

Save the software to a pendrive. You can use the one with linux on it, but you need to reformat it with Windows (it will tell you nonsense like "there is a problem with that flashdrive" anyways, so this is pretty easy)

3. Create a Windows install media

  • Plug in the 8GB Pendrive
  • Open Rufus
  • Open the downloaded Windows 11 ISO
  • Select the correct pendrive as target
  • Rufus chooses default settings, they are fine
  • It shows a dialog window where you can enable changes. Select the ones you want. If you have supported hardware, do not disable that, for example.
    • local account
    • no onedrive
    • no forced bitlocker encryption
    • bypass hardware requirements (minimum RAM and TPM 2.0)
  • continue, wait until finished

4. Install Windows

Remove the backup drive, reboot the computer. See under hidden chapter 1.1.3 and 1.1.4 how to deal with issues booting into the Windows USB stick.

Follow the (damn ugly) installer. Remove all partitions on your PC that were previously used by Windows. Continue

When the install is almost done, the new fancy steps will be shown, where you should connect to Wifi. The option "I don't have internet" should be shown, use that to avoid tracking and forced online accounts.

5. Setup Windows

Once installed, you will have a Windows 11 desktop. It is likely Windows 11 Home, which has a bunch of bloatware preinstalled, but way less than at the beginning of Windows 11 or even Windows 10.

5.1 Debloating, Optimizations

Do not connect to the Internet yet, install BCUninstaller and DoNotSpy11. In BCU, enable "uninstall using checkboxes" and the configs to remove protected packages. It does not work often anyways. In DoNotSpy11 you can disable Windows Recall and more "AI" crap, but be aware that is also allows you to turn off random security features. Only disable what you understand.

Install the other software you want now.

5.2 WinUtil

Then connect to the internet, and use ChrisTitus' Windows Utility to set a bunch more things.

Open Powershell as Administrator, and enter

irm "https://christitus.com/win" | iex

in here you can do a lot of things, mainly

  • remove Edge
  • set updates to "security updates only" (you may or may not want that). DO NOT DISABLE UPDATES, this is stupid.
  • disable telemitry, Cortana, web search, ads and more

5.3 GUI changes

The huge search bar always annoys me as it has no purpose that the windows button does not serve. You can disable it in the panel settings (right click on the panel).

Uninstalling Software automatically fixes a bunch of things. Cortana, Ads, "Recommended Apps", News and the Edge Browser will be gone.

You may still want to change some minor things, like disabling transparency and animations to reduce hardware load.

6. Restore Backup

You should have Cryptomator installed, so now you can connect the backup drive, unlock it with your password and copy over all your files! Windows is pretty slow at handling many small files, the filemanager might hang when moving too many, simply wait until it is done.

7. Reboot

The account does not have a password yet! So you need to reboot, then you can set a user password.

8. Dual-Boot with Linux

Dual-booting on the same drive is kinda hacky and can result in breakages of the Windows or Linux system when done wrong. It is recommended to use separate drives when possible, but using the same drive IS possible.

Dual-Boot Instructions

8.1 shrink Windows partition

In Windows, search for "Partition" and open the partition manager. Here you see a big NTFS partition, which you can resize. Select the smaller new size you want, which will free space after the partition, where you can then install Linux.

8.2 Install Linux

You can choose what Linux variant you want. Depending on how often you want to use the system, you want one with more or less frequent updates.

If you only boot the system once a month or so, something like Debian or AlmaLinux would be good. If you use it regularly, something like Fedora, OpenSUSE Tumbleweed or Slowroll can be nice.

Keep in mind that not all systems work well with dualbooting. I generally recommend Fedora Atomic Desktops and derivatives like "universal blue's" Bluefin, Aurora and Bazzite.

These systems are waay more reliable and easy to update, especially when using them only once a year or so. "Recommended Distros" like Linux Mint, Ubuntu or Fedora can get really messy as the traditional package managers have extremely many breaking points, resulting in failing updates or upgrades and you needing to learn a lot of technical things.

There are ongoing issues on dualbooting for these systems and setting them up is generally worth a try.

In short, it should work if you create a second /boot/efi partition, and select the system to boot in your BIOS, instead of using the Linux GRUB bootloader to also boot Windows, like it is done in many dual-boot setups.


Result

In the end you should have a minimal Windows system with removed and replaced software. It will consume less RAM and do less without you asking it to. It will likely not train AI models with your data, upload your data into the cloud, or force you into subscription software.

The system will be a bit more privacy friendly, but it still relies on Microsoft not reverting everything. Windows is a proprietary operating system, meaning even technical people cannot easily know what happens in there. You should never trust it with personal data and instead use a separate Linux system for that.

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