Brother laser printers are great.
HewlettHackard
joined 2 years ago
I’m not entirely clear on the problem, but yes - the circuit as drawn makes the microcontroller pin start high, then fall after some time. Do you need the microcontroller pin to have a different voltage than the transistor base (I assume when you said gate you mean base…gates are for FETs), or is this good enough?
They discuss it in some detail in one of the Voron Live talks - I think this one, which was the announcement video for Stealthburner. Lots of CFD combined with manufacturability testing and aesthetics mixed in too.
Edited to add: oh, that’s the hot end fan. I don’t remember if they discussed that or just the part cooling fan, but the video is an interesting watch either way.
There was a bit of a learning curve but after a few days I found it works very well for my needs.
I’m curious what a parametric offset would be. If it is what I think it is, I’ve accomplished that with some construction geometry. Add a construction geometry line constrained appropriately (e.g. perpendicular to some other line, particular length, etc) and then use its other end to attach and constrain the offset line.
LFP cells have excellent cycle life anyway (2000+ cycles); is it worth worrying about staying at 95%?
Those are resin prints, not FDM prints. The print technology (FDM vs resin) is the bigger factor than the actual plastic used (PLA vs others).
And that level of detail is impossible with FDM regardless of the plastic used.
“ERRF” was terrible to say out loud, and as hell weaver said above, even many people interested in 3d printing won’t know what RepRap is.
Are the test models ones that come with the printer, or models you’ve found online? If they’re from online, does the printer ship with any you could try? Something sliced by the manufacturer is most likely to work. If those fail, I’d contact customer support.
I have no experience with resin, but is the resin coin stuck to the screen or the build plate? Are you angling the chess piece or trying to print it straight / vertical? My understanding is that resin prints need to be carefully aligned so they’ll peel of the screen, and big flat surfaces like the bottom of a chess piece won’t.
Any particular technique for the dipping?
The 7333A is a linear regulator, which means it drops voltage by converting power to heat. Typically those make sense when the input voltage is close to the output voltage or the load is very small. If it’s getting too hot, the load is high enough that the efficiency will be very bad…whether or not this is a problem depends on your application.
Some random site claims 170mA and another claims up to 400mA. 170mA * 8.7V (12V in minus 3.3V out) = about 1.5 watts, which is too much for a TO-92 package.
Can you use a tiny buck converter instead? Or a larger package for the linear regulator that can add a small heat sink?
As for your actual circuit, the second transistor is an interesting idea (you’re using it to invert the state so you can have the GPIO pulled in the non-problematic direction?) and I don’t have enough experience to give further suggestions.