17

I have a K1 Max and mostly it is running great, however I get strange artifacts on mostly only the front side of curved objects.

I have lubed all the rods, and I have a Capricorn PTFE tube from the filament sensor to the hot end. I tried the printable guide for the tube to go into the hot end but it wasn't any better and I thought that was the culprit at first.

I have an extension piece to raise up the top glass.

I'm using Elegoo Rapid PTEG running at 240c and 250mm outerwall speed. This is mainly happening on the front side and anywhere on the build plate. Filament is dry and fed out of the Creality Space dryer.

These items are small netcups but it was also happening on the larger sections that they go in.

Using Orcaslicer and Arachne wall generator.

Any ideas where I need to be focusing my attention on?

[-] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 4 points 3 months ago

Easy there pussies can be useful, unlike that shitheel.

[-] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 11 points 3 months ago

Funny and sad that the Canadian taxpayers are footing the bill for some friend of a friend to have a luxury condo in NYC. These so called leaders are just milking everyone. What a disgrace.

[-] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 5 points 4 months ago

Well of course they did😔, corporations will exploit every little opportunity, in turn they line up cushy roles for slimy politicians in exchange for not fixing these "loopholes".

[-] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 2 points 8 months ago

I'm building a low pro Corne, Kailh browns with ChocFox keycaps, it'll be my travel keyboard.

9
Elite C Firmware Issue (sh.itjust.works)

Hey all, working on a Corne Choc, and having issues flashing the right half of the board with QMK Toolbox.

I am getting a validating error with:

822 invalid byte in program region, 0 outside region

This is the second controller as I had the same error on the first and assumed I ruined it when I was troubleshooting it and desoldering.

Ordered a new board and same issue.

I've cleared the EEPROM, there are not shorts or bad solder on the headers. This is a completely separate PCB.

Tried using QMK MSYS to reflash ISP (not sure I got that right, don't really understand it).

Get a blue led indicating power, reset button works to put it into bootloader mode, still nothing will flash on it.

Unfortunately on the first go round I had soldered headers to swap but was too tall for me, desoldered the boards and went directly to the PCB, as mentioned this is a new board on a new PCB, did not program prior to soldering.

[-] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 2 points 10 months ago

Almost forgot, Teaching Tech has a great calibration web site and YouTube channel.

[-] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 4 points 10 months ago

My first suggestion if you have a Raspberry Pi Zero 2w or better is to install Klipper. If that isn't a route to go down for you then Myers firmware was really good (not sure if it's still around since I went to Klipper).

I've printed so many miss for mine, spool holder moves to the side, filament guides, different spool holders with bearings, new hot end fan assemblies ,small tool holder that slides into the v slots. Covers for the V slots.

It's a great machine to learn and tinker on, some people don't like that but I really enjoyed it.

I've since switched to direct drive instead of the Bowden tube and added another Z rod and stepper. I have a microswiss all metal hotend which has been fantastic and I have put Noctua fans for the heat break. Also upgrade the Bowden tube to the Capricorn type, it is much better.

A magnetic build plate from Biqu was another good addition.

Almost forgot, I printed risers for the feet out if TPU and that seems to help, I probably would have tried the ones that the squash balls go into but these work fine. In order to print TPU with the Bowden tube you need to print slow.

Also keep an eye on the plastic handle on the filament extruder, they are known to be weak and crack, a good aluminum dual gear is a good low cost investment.

Search on Thingiverse and Printables for mods for the Ender 3 and you will be overwhelmed with your options.

Patience is a virtue, and remember there are no stupid questions and a huge community of people willing to help.

If there is anything else I can do to help, don't hesitate to ask.

[-] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 3 points 10 months ago

Currently I'm doing the bed level with everything at room temperature.

I'll give it a try heated to see if that is causing the warping.

Cheers.

[-] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 3 points 10 months ago

I have it clear the mesh, take a new mesh as default, and load default mesh in my start profile.

I though it might be the same, but it does make micro movements along the board to adjust for the mesh reading.

Double checked the operation of the BL Touch, it's working and no issue (mechanically at least).

I did a complete relevel of the bed and still had an issue in the middle of the bed. Commented out the bed mesh in my config and had a better result in the middle of the bed.

Running with no BK Touch for now.

Thanks.

[-] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 3 points 10 months ago

I'll try running sans BL Touch, it's just weird that it was working before the board change without issue. I've cranked down on the silicon spacers to make sure it's difficult for them to loosen up over time, will see how that goes.

Thanks for your comment.

25
Upgraded Ender 3v2 Issues (sh.itjust.works)

I've had an Ender 3 v2 for a few years now and have had mostly no issues. I've upgraded the hot end to a microswiss direct drive and a dual z setup (twin z steppers on a shared cable).

Recently started having issues with the 4.2.2 board and replaced it with a BTT mini SKR 3 v3.

Since I've put the new board in, I am having troubles getting the bed to level and stay level.

The height profile of the bed is now showing a dip in the centre (which was not there before). When I run a print it seems to be overcompensating for the dip. If I level the bed with the corner screws and don't use the bed mesh then it prints fairly good, but after a few prints the bed goes out of level again.

I can't seem to make any adjustments that help the issue. Yesterday tightened up all the screws (silicon spacers instead of springs). Releveled the bed and had a small dip in the middle and an overall height difference of 0.170 across the bed (normal prior to this was 0.310). Sent a print with bed mesh and mostly came out good.

Went to fire up a new print today and the bed height is showing 0.830 overall difference.

I'm not sure if it is a BL touch issue (the BL touch is a v3.1 and is original with a single 5 wire connector plugged into mini SKR) dual z issue (disconnected 1 in an attempt to level and didn't see much difference, the BTT has two connectors for dual z but run off one stepper driver as I understand it, I am using the y cable for only one stepper motor, while the other motor has its own cable).

I use klipper with a RPi zero 2 w.

I just can't seem to figure out that has been causing the issue since the board swap.

Anyone have some ideas as where to point me?

[-] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 2 points 11 months ago

How many prints do you think you're putting through before you're cleaning it.

I run mine through a porous rock filter (I'll try to find the video link) every couple of months.

Typically I pre wash with Mean Green, then into the isopropyl which helps extend the life of the isopropyl.

[-] xzot746@sh.itjust.works 7 points 1 year ago

This is a bit older bit still has good information.

https://m.youtube.com/results?sp=mAEA&search_query=lmds+greenfrog

He walks through setting up Raspberry Pi's and the Arrs. Can use his setup or just the information.

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xzot746

joined 1 year ago