Veraxis

joined 2 years ago
[–] Veraxis@lemmy.world 1 points 1 week ago (1 children)

I have been out of the tea game for a while, but here are a few personal favorites that I come back to:

Adagio Tea's Scottish Breakfast ($0.11/g)

Vahdam Tea's Daily Assam ($0.06/g, but you have to buy 340g)

Yunnan Craft's Zhong Guo Hong ($0.09/g)

Yunnan Sourcing's Black Gold Bi Luo Chun ($0.12/g)

[–] Veraxis@lemmy.world 2 points 1 week ago (3 children)

That's a pretty open-ended question, but I think other folks have made some good suggestions.

Assam, Ceylon, and Yunnan teas tend to be the best in terms of price per gram, and can be found from multiple vendors.

Did you want specific vendors/recommendations?

[–] Veraxis@lemmy.world 2 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (1 children)

Based on this reddit post where someone added a graphics card and swapped out the power supply in the same model of Dell Inspiron 3847 for a standard ATX power supply, I would say the odds are good that it is a standard 24-pin ATX.

Edit: I guess the Mobo was also swapped, so I may be wrong. OP should definitely check.

But this is good advice in general because Dell are notorious for doing non-standard shenanigans with their PCs, so good to check this for anyone else coming across this post.

[–] Veraxis@lemmy.world 2 points 2 weeks ago

Yes, power supplies can absolutely fail due to age. Namely, the electrolytic capacitors that smooth the incoming AC (and in other places smooth the switched secondary voltages) are only rated for a certain number of hours of operation before the electrolyte starts to break down, and when they fail, the electrolyte begins to boil and can build up pressure and then rupture with a bang exactly like you describe.

Temperature and operating time are both factors in how quickly capacitors fail, so the fact that the computer was left on most of the time for 12 years means that the caps were probably running at elevated temperature nearly all the time.

In terms of what makes a "good" power supply, the short answer is that, unless you have an electrical engineering degree, the reputation of the brand and the efficiency rating of the power supply are your best indicators. Big OEMs like Dell are likely trying to cut costs in their desktops, so the power supplies in OEM desktops may actually use cheaper components and worse build quality than the power supplies that enthusiast PC builders use in their rigs.

Many modern power supplies are rated on the "80 plus" rating system-- meaning the power supply is more than 80% efficient, although nowadays many power supplies are more like 90% efficient and may be rated "80+ gold" or "80+ platinum". A more efficient power supply is losing less power as waste heat, so the components run cooler and last longer.

That looks like it is a standard ATX power supply, so almost any power supply on the market should fit. Unfortunately, most 80+ gold PC power supplies would be much more expensive than you probably want, but something like a humble Thermaltake 500W power supply would be 80+ rated, made by a brand people have heard of, and costs around $40. For 5 bucks more, it may be more reliable than some no-name OEM power supply replacement.

[–] Veraxis@lemmy.world 4 points 2 weeks ago

I use plain Arch for desktop, but for servers I use headless debian. A media center is sort of in between, so up to you. In terms of resource usage on an older laptop, I expect the choice of DE would matter more.

[–] Veraxis@lemmy.world 46 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (2 children)

Side question: his job is asking him to run work programs on his personal machine? If they are not willing to provide a work laptop or if it is something that does not require powerful hardware to run, I feel like in that situation I would buy a burner laptop off ebay to run the work thing on.

That's just my personal preference, but I do not mix work and personal things on the same computer.

[–] Veraxis@lemmy.world 6 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago)

Privacy concerns for the most part. Also for better desktop performance and less bloat on my existing hardware. I was not going to buy a whole new laptop just for macOS, and also gaming on macOS is not nearly as viable.

I would like to somewhat dispute this idea that all Linux users enjoy fixing problems for entertainment. Don't get me wrong, I can and do solve problems in Linux, but once I have a setup that works, I just use my machine normally rather than constantly tinkering with it.

As for how I went about the switch, fortunately, my laptop at the time had 2 NVMe slots, so I installed a second drive and dual-booted between Windows and Linux for a while until I had set up replacements for all the programs that I use regularly.

[–] Veraxis@lemmy.world 11 points 2 months ago (2 children)

I am an electrical engineer, so even beyond Teams and MS Office, several of the engineering and CAD programs we use are not supported or only partially supported on Linux (i.e. hardcoded to only work on a specific version of Ubuntu, lol).

I have spoken to our IT guy, and he would be completely on board with using Linux, but even he acknowledges that there is no reasonable path to us doing so, so I just sort of accept it.

[–] Veraxis@lemmy.world 2 points 2 months ago (1 children)

Hello from the owner of a 2018 Gigabyte Aero 15Wv8! Neat to see these less common Gigabyte laptops being used with Linux.

That UEFI looks a lot newer than the one on my machine, so I am not 100% sure, but I would assume disabling "enforce secure boot" would be the same as disabling secure boot. Other folks may know more, but I cannot think of any reason why turning it off would brick your Linux install.

As for XFCE vs KDE, I would say stick with KDE/Wayland unless you can really not find any workaround. The difference in resource usage between DEs is probably not significant enough that it would make a difference on a machine with 16GB of RAM and a relatively recent CPU. I mostly see that advice given for older machines with very little RAM.

I'm not sure about that game or the gradual lag issue. A quick google shows someone describing a similar-sounding issue in this Linux Mint forum thread, though. Maybe some of the suggestions there might help? They mention some stuff around LD_PRELOAD= with various parameters in Proton.

[–] Veraxis@lemmy.world 1 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago)

Every few days on the machines I use daily, but I have a couple spare laptops which I only use infrequently, and I usually don't run into any major problems when I have to make a big set of updates on a machine I am using for the first time in a few months.

[–] Veraxis@lemmy.world 1 points 3 months ago

Depending on your budget, I often find there are good refurbished deals on semi-recent models on ebay. That's how I got my current laptop. Most business models will have upgradeable RAM/storage/wireless cards. Externally removable batteries have not been a thing on laptops in a long time, but replacement batteries for common business models should be available as long as you are okay with taking off the back lid, which it sounds like you are.

A quick look on ebay (Your local market may vary) suggests there are some decent deals on 11th-13th gen 13" HP/Dell/Lenovo business laptops in the $300-400 range. Maybe something like this HP 630 G10?

If your budget is less, the usual 8th-10th gen Intel business laptops are always a good option and usually go for $100-200, maybe even under $100 once you get into some of the lower spec or scratch-and-dent models (Also, yes, I know AMD is a thing, but businesses almost always use Intel in my experience). My travel laptop is an old 8th gen Acer Swift with a dent in the back lid, but it otherwise works fine and has handled many trips in my backpack. Maybe something like this Dell 5310 with a scuffed lid? I'm sure you can look around and find something which works for you.

[–] Veraxis@lemmy.world 4 points 3 months ago (2 children)

I would say Arch if you are that tight on resources and comfortable doing so (the setup isn't as bad as people make it sound, just look up a guide online), but Endeavour would get you to more or less the same place with much less complexity.

That said, is there any chance of upgrading the RAM? an extra 4GB or 8GB stick of DDR3/DDR3L off ebay would not cost too much, and would make a world of difference for things like modern web browsers.

 

I apologize for the sub-optimal lighting in a slightly dark corner of my living room.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what this might be? The location is North Carolina, USA. I'm no expert, but looking around at some photos, my best guess might be a grass spider of the genus Agelenopsis. Hopefully this isn't too mundane of a spider for this community.

The size I would estimate is around 15mm or so. Fortunately, they were a very cooperative photography subject and did not move while I went and grabbed a ruler for the last image below.

 

I have a new install of Debian 12 Bookworm, and I have added the nonfree firmware sources to my sources list.

However, when I run apt search firmware-linux I see three options

firmware-linux

firmware-linux-free [installed, automatic]

firmware-linux-nonfree

I would like to use nonfree firmware, but I am confused by that first option. what does firmware-linux include or not include that is different from firmware-linux-nonfree? Which should I install?

 

To clarify, I am not talking about making installation media. My installation USB works just fine. What I want to do is install Debian 12 Bookworm to a second USB drive to use as the permanent boot drive for a machine.

As for why I want to do this: I have a small HP elitedesk 800 G3 mini-pc. It has both an NVMe drive and a 2.5" SATA drive. I want to turn it into a file server with RAID 1 between the NVMe and SATA drives, with a USB drive in the back as the boot drive (yes I know about the issues of wear-out from running an OS from a USB drive. I am okay with this).

My procedure so far has been simple: insert both the installation USB and the target USB. I am able to detect and install the OS to the target USB without issue. The system then reboots and I am able to log into the OS from the USB drive (performance depends a lot on the speed of the USB drive being used, I have tried a few different types and settled on an abnormally fast USB drive which performs pretty well as far as I can tell).

However, as soon as I shut down from that first boot and remove the install USB, the next time I boot, the BIOS says "boot device not found" as though it cannot detect any OS. And after that I am completely unable to boot into that drive ever again. I have gone into the BIOS and changed as many settings as I can think of, such as turning off secure boot, turning off fast boot, verifying that the boot order is set to boot from USB. Nothing so far has worked.

Does anyone have any thoughts for what could be wrong? I know sometimes booting from a USB is treated differently from booting from a internal drive, but I am unclear on the exact details of this.

Any help would be much appreciated.

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