this post was submitted on 14 Mar 2026
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I'm currently working on renovating the bathroom in our 1958 home. I just finished tearing out the shoddy job some flippers did a few years back, and found some issues with the floor that have got me scratching my head. I've learned that it was common practice back in the 50's to have a mortar slab subfloor, and it looks like that's what I have in our bathroom (except where the old bathtub was, where there was just 2 layers of 5/8" plywood). The tile was adhered directly to the slab with no decoupling membrane, and the only way I could get it and the thinset off was with a rotary hammer. I'm afraid that might have been too aggressive though, because now there's a bunch of cracks in the subfloor. I'm not certain if the cracks go all the way through because the bottom/sides of the slab are hidden. But I'm also not certain the actual original mortar slab is cracked, or if the flippers put a super thick layer or two of leveling compound down, and that's what's cracked, because in one area where I accidentally made a deeper gouge, it looks like there's about an inch of smooth grey mortar-like substance at the surface, but beneath that is a lighter-colored concrete-like substance with an aggregate mixed into it.

I'd like to get some more opinions on what's actually going on here, and what my next steps should be. Can I put leveling compound down as-is, do I need to patch/fill the cracks, do I need to fully chip away this smooth, grey top layer, or do I need to tear out the slab completely and lay a new plywood subfloor?

Imgur link for reference: https://imgur.com/a/xF7go4z

I can add more photos if needed. Thanks in advance!

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[–] ikidd@lemmy.world 2 points 16 hours ago

Honestly, that doesn't look too bad. I'd say the plywood is filling in an area of concrete that was removed before. The smooth mortar stuff is self-leveling compound, the gray stuff is concrete. Is there any movement in the floor, and if you're planning on putting down tile, then movement is the enemy. In which case, I'd say tear the concrete out and rebuild the rest of the floor with plywood, screwed to the joists that are presumably inspected and reinforced if needed.

If you don't have time or money to do that, this could be used as is with some repair of the holes. Those cracks aren't really a show stopper, and depending on the flooring you plan to use, you might not need to do anything about them. The concrete debris in the walls annoys the shit out of me, though. And I'd fix whatever you've got going on over by the toilet, that looks grim.

[–] 11111one11111@lemmy.world 2 points 18 hours ago

So you already have down to the studs, if you have any kids this is what you had them for. Send them in with masks and sledge hammers to break the rest of it up and burry it in the back yard woods/brush/where you need fill but dont care about clean topsoil fill (assuming this is rural).

Obviously take this with a grain of salt because im not looking at it in person, but I cant see very much water damage to be concerned with from the pictures. Even if there are spots that are structurally comprimised from water damage, just cut the sood out and sister in new supports. Once you have the concrete out youll have a look at the sub floor. Thats guna have the most damage if there is any and will likely get replaced because why not you are this far in amd all it is, is some plywood. If any of the joists or studs are water damaged, just sister new pieces of wood. Once the remodel is done and done correctly, you will have zero reason to worry about further water damage or water damage spreading.

Its unlikely the floor has been cracked like that for long. Again if it were like that for a long time, you would feel floor joists bouncing, wood flaking away, and black mold errywherrr. Even if you dont see any mold, after you finish demo but before you do any work, spray everything down with a mix of bleach and water.

Use all the recommended materials. Pinching a penny on the wall materials or flooring will absolutely cost you a whole other renovation before you sell. Calk everything. Then caulk it again and keep on caulking every sign of wear.

All in all id say for how old the framing looks, its not in bad shape for its age. For a second opinion, other than yours and random internet peeps, just call local contractors/tile guys for a quote. Tell them you are broke as fuck. That way they dont come in trying to upsell you on stuff and will give you the bare essential needs which will give you a better idea of what does need to be replaced and what is good to remodel over.

[–] Iconoclast@feddit.uk 3 points 22 hours ago (1 children)

Here's what I've done in the past and will keep doing in the future. Since we're already rebuilding everything anyway might as well just redo the entire floor.

[–] octobob@lemmy.ml 1 points 13 hours ago

Are PVC pipes like that common for water lines in the UK? In the US they're illegal in some parts of the country and are typically seen as "not if but when" they'll fail. I've seen them just randomly explode and dump full pressure water into somewhere.

Might be slightly different in the UK but the way they're installed in the US is gluing the different CPVC pieces together. This is different than PEX which is the more modern method and is crimped water lines.

[–] Bustedknuckles@lemmy.world 3 points 1 day ago (1 children)

The mortar bed and plywood are sitting on concrete? I'd say it depends on how robust the mortar layer is. If it's easy to remove, I'd pull it out and re-SLC the whole region, then thinset down a decoupling membrane before tile. You can get decoupling membrane with integrated heating wire if you want to get fancy. I've used ditra-HEAT a couple times and it was pretty idiot (me)-proof. You'll want unmodified thinset or their special stuff.

You could also probably pull out just the plywood and makeup that section to level with fresh mortar. If the existing mortar isn't falling apart, I don't think you need to worry about cracks.

Another consideration as you decide is what the floor will transition to - that may help you decide on what layers you'll want in the bathroom

[–] zalgotext@sh.itjust.works 2 points 17 hours ago

The mortar bed and plywood are sitting on concrete?

No, they're both supported by the floor joists, which might be sitting on a poured concrete wall that runs underneath the bathroom. It's a little hard to see exactly what's going on under the floor, visibility isn't great under the bathroom from the basement. Filling in the plywood section with mortar would require building out some sort of form to keep it from running into the basement.

The mortar seems pretty robust. The only way I'd be able to get it out would probably be the rotary hammer or a big sledge hammer or something. Ideally I'd like to just put SLC down as-is, I just want to make sure the cracks and divots won't cause any problems with that. The floor transitions to hardwood, and currently the bathroom subfloor sits about a 1/2" lower than the hardwood, so I'm hoping that's enough to fit a layer of SLC, ditra, and tile. I would like it to be flush, but I'm not super concerned if the bathroom floor ends up a tad taller.

I appreciate the feedback though, thank you!