Once you get the shackles fitted you've got pleasure table for for even the uppityest dungeon.
Bravo.
A handmade home for woodworkers and admirers of woodworkers. Our community icon is submitted by @inquanto@lemmy.world, winner of the Christmas 2025 gift contest with a lovely series of hardwood cutting boards.
Once you get the shackles fitted you've got pleasure table for for even the uppityest dungeon.
Bravo.
I see no doggo.
Can you show off the model for the feet?
Feet pics? 😂
I had the same thought but then I believed I was the only one with a dirty childish mind.
Here are some pictures though since I know I won't get around to the writeup very soon



Yes I plan on uploading and sharing with a write up on this specifically
Should be marked nsfw
Smooth curves in all the right places
The diagonal brace is likely overkill and will get in the way of accessing the underside or a shelf should you choose to put one in. The whole bench will likely slide along the floor before it racks should you push hard enough.
Just writing so that other bench builders make that consideration not to shit on your project.
It probably is overkill structurally, but I had some other thoughts around this.
For the face vise, I wanted some dog holes on the side of the bench so I can rest larger material on dogs and use the vise on the other end. The diagonal brace give me somewhat arbitrary positioning, increasing in height with length. I'll find out if this ends up being useful. So far I've only used the furthest and highest dog hole.
As for storage, I left the other side open just for that. Not sure exactly what that will look like yet. I'll probably add some combination of frequent tools on the vise side and drawers on the open side.
A shelf is a bad idea in a bench - you need easy access to the bottom to adjust clamps all the time. Now an assembly table can benefit from shelves and such - but they don't need the strength this has.
You should be wary of giving universal "bad idea" advice for under bench storage. I have a split top Rubou with a cabinet underneath that's worked great for over ten years now. There's enough room between the top of the cabinet and bottom of the bench top to let in a clamp head.
Gorgeous!
Adjustable leveling feet that I designed and 3D printed. You can kick them over with your toe to adjust and get rid whatever wobble appears in that particular spot.
Well that's cool!
That is gorgeous! Now I feel like I need to build one to replace my harbor freight workbench… I guess I’ll add that to my ever growing pile of projects :)
What are the two doodads sticking out of the dog holes on the angle brace?
And any tips on picking out flip down casters? Seems like that would be a great feature.
It was a great learning experience! Almost all of my joints were too big for the power tools I have, so I got to learn some hand tool techniques. It did take way longer than any YouTube video would suggest.
Holdfast https://taytools.com/narex-hot-forged-workbench-holdfast-for-3-4-inch-dog-holes?a_2=v_3504&cid=2587
Bench dog screw clamp https://taytools.com/taytools-adjustable-workbench-bench-dog-screw-clamp-fits-3-4-dog-holes-full-5-1-2-travel?onsite=TT597
Flip down casters https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08BR7R4WN
I just got the same ones I got for my table saw a while back. They work fine once installed, but it's a royal pain to assemble them. I had to get clever with vise grips to tighten the nut.
Adding the bar across is very nice, you get two wheels with one motion and don't need to squeeze behind the bench if it's against a wall. Making it longer than the width of the bench helps catch it with your foot, it can get a stuck flat against the bench when the wheels are disengaged.
Thanks for the details and links! If I ever get around to building my own, I’ll let you know how it goes.
I’m not much of an engineer - my approach tends to be a combination of “that seems like it would be sturdy,” “I’ll just copy this design that seems sturdy,” and “I’m not sure, so I’ll overbuild it just in case”. How did you decide on your structural design/bracing?
A lot of the dimensions came from the limitations of the material I had on hand. A friend gave me a stack of 2x4s, and I processed them to get the most I could out of the boards for the top. So the thickness, length, and width were mostly dictated by that. I tried to maximize the size of the bench since I often work with large material. Case in point, first project was some sound panels that were the same size or larger than the top.
For the design, I watched a ton of videos and tried to pick out the best parts. It was important to me to have the legs flush with the edge of the top so I could work with material vertically ans clamp to the legs.
The bracing I commented on elsewhere, but I wanted some extra structure, some extra weight, and dog holes on the working side.
I didn't feel the need for fancy joinery, but I wanted the strength so I used half laps everywhere, which still turned out to be a challenge with the size of the parts.
I've come to love building workbenches from 2x4's. They're (reasonably) cheap, soft enough to work easily, and you can essentially use mass to compensate for intrinsic rigidity. Maybe add plywood shear panels in strategic places. Even 1/4" plywood shear panel will beat most brace structures.
2x4s are cheap enough to try a design for a while & throw it out (or downgrade it to patio furniture) if it doesn't work. Soft enough to just plane a millimeter off the top when it gets beat up. If you invest in expensive hardware, move it to the new iteration. I've got like three of them now.
@thenewred 👍🏼 👍🏼 Building your own workbench is a very satisfying process. I did this some years ago and still am very happy with it.
Have fun, use and abuse it!
Agreed, I learned a ton, took way longer than expected, but should last forever. Thank you!