By Philip Rhoeri, Associated Press, Greendale Press News
PORTLAND, Ore. — Homeless advocates and social service groups are criticizing a local woman’s outreach program after learning that toenail clippings collected during free foot care sessions are later used to make and sell jewelry, a practice they describe as exploitative and deeply troubling.
The woman, a self-described artist and wellness volunteer, has for more than a year offered free toenail trimming and basic foot care to unhoused people in parks and encampments across the city. Promotional materials for the program describe it as a harm-reduction effort aimed at preventing infection and improving mobility.
The controversy surfaced after jewelry items advertised online as “human-derived adornments” were traced back to the same individual. The listings describe necklaces, rings, and earrings made from “sanitized, ethically sourced human keratin,” with prices ranging from $120 to more than $400.
“It feels deceptive,” said Marla Jensen, director of a nonprofit homeless outreach coalition in Portland. “People accepted a medical service in a vulnerable moment. They did not consent to becoming raw material for a product.”
Several advocates said they were particularly disturbed by what they described as a lack of informed consent. Some clients interviewed said they were unaware their toenail clippings were kept at all.
“I thought she threw them away,” said one man who receives services near downtown. He asked not to be named out of fear of losing access to care. “Nobody said anything about jewelry. Sounds wrong.”
The woman behind the program defended her actions in an interview, saying the jewelry is meant to challenge ideas about value, waste, and dignity. She said that a portion of proceeds is donated to homeless-related causes.
“I’m turning something discarded into something meaningful,” she said. “Toenail clippings can be beautiful and sexy. It's a thrill to me. And some of the money goes back into the community.”
She declined to specify what percentage of profits are donated or which organizations receive the funds, citing privacy concerns. Financial records reviewed by the Greendale Press show small donations to at least one mutual aid group, though advocates say the amounts do not align with the revenue suggested by online sales.
“This is not transparency,” Jensen said. “This is branding.”
Medical professionals also raised concerns, noting that even sterilized human biological material raises ethical questions when used commercially.
“There are strict rules around the use of human tissue,” said Dr. Alan Rivera, a podiatrist familiar with outreach medicine. “Even when the health risk is low, consent is non-negotiable.”
City officials said they are reviewing whether the practice violates health codes or consumer protection laws. No charges have been filed, and the foot care sessions continue.
For now, advocates say the issue goes beyond legality.
“This isn’t about art,” Jensen said. “It’s about power, vulnerability, and who gets to profit from whose body.”
The woman said she plans to continue both the outreach and the jewelry line, adding that criticism reflects discomfort with unconventional art rather than wrongdoing.
As scrutiny grows, outreach groups are urging people seeking foot care to ask more questions before accepting services, while city officials weigh whether clearer rules are needed to prevent similar situations.