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It’s Time to End the Tyranny of Ultra-Processed Food
(www.wired.com)
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To their credit, they say "ultra-processed" to capture this distinction.
They use another vague term with little to no meaningful distinction in order to avoid the actual problem, which in this case is overeating and, in general, is foods having too much sugar, salt, and others things added. Additives that are fine in moderation, but are way higher and outside the daily recommended value in these cases.
It's a well defined term:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra-processed_food
which they also take some time discussing in the beginning of the article.