HI have only been riding since the late spring. This is my first bike. It does NOT have ABS (I've heard air can get trapped in the ABS system...this is not my issue).
Several months ago, I changed the brake fluid. I initially had air sucked into the front brake line, but it eventually came back out the other side. The rear brake caliper initially seemed to be "sticking" a bit after the fluid change, but now no longer sticks at all and I can freely rotate the wheel when cleaning the chain.
I had a recall on something NOT brake related. While there, the mechanic told me my brakes needed work because they felt "spongy". They then quoted me a whopping $650 for an 8k mile service. I told them I'd think about it. They said they could knock off some items if I am doing things myself but still. I'd like to see if I can figure it out myself.
I tried to re-bleed them for a while yesterday, but no air came out of the lines. The brakes feel the same. I tried tapping on the brake lines a bit as well. Still no bubbles come out.
I do not have a pneumatic bleeder. Instead I do this method. 1. Pump brake a few times then hold down, 2. Open bleeder valve for a few seconds, 3. Close bleeder valve, 4. Release brake.
The brake pads have plenty of meat left on them, also confirmed by the mechanic.
However, a new thing that just developed after attempting to re-bleed is that the rear wheel now squeals when rolled backwards. Not sure if that has any relation.
Since this is the only bike I've owned, I also don't really know how they are "supposed" to feel. This is how they've always felt ever since owning the bike before I even changed the fluid.
Bike is from 2017. The fluid looked dirty when I initially got the bike in spring of 2026, so I don't know how old the fluid in the bike was.
Any ideas? Would you mind explaining for someone not super well-versed in mechanical things? All of this bike maintenance stuff is new to me!
Thanks all!
It's a 9 year old bike. You should tell us what bike it is. On the smaller, cheaper Japanese bikes, they recommend brake line replacement every 5 years (read the manual) because they use rubber lined brake lines. No matter how well you bleed, they will feel soft. Grab the line tight while someone is pumping the brakes, you should not feel it swell at all. A braided steel line kit is a must for these bikes, much cheaper than OEM and the performance difference is striking and they last forever.
https://www.steadygarage.com/products/spiegler-honda-rebel-300-500-premium-brake-line-kit
You can go all over YouTube for brake servicing videos, they rarely mention swollen lines and very few explain how important it is to clean and deglaze the rotors. Most brake pad replacement videos on YouTube are wrong, you end up contaminating a new set of pads with material on the rotor face. Rotors need to be sanded and cleaned with non chlorinated cleaner.
When you bleed and see no air bubbles, wrap a rubber strap around the brake levers squeezing the brake and leave it overnight. Microbubbles will float up to the reservoir under constant pressure. This is commonly done in racing.
OK, I see in a response it's a Honda Rebel 300. From Honda, not an internet rando:
Inspection Interval: Inspect your brake hoses and lines for cracks, swelling, chafing, leaks, or soft/spongy lever feel at every routine service or major check (typically every year or 4,000–8,000 miles).
Industry standards for OEM rubber motorcycle brake hoses generally suggest replacement every 4 to 6 years, regardless of mileage, as rubber degrades internally from heat, UV exposure, and brake fluid absorption.
Thus, the bike is due. People who insist rubber lines don't degrade are just used to soft brakes. Lastly, get a difference mechanic, they should know this.
Can I ask you about my bike? My front brake is like half spongy in like the first half of the lever travel, then I start to feel it pressing and it does brake. It's two calipers with ABS and braided hose. Isn't it supposed to be pressing evenly?
It is interesting because I have both the owner's manual and the official factory service manual, and none of them mention brake hose swelling or it being a cause of sponginess. It tells me to look for cracking/deterioration, but that's it. There is a separate area with a zillion and one possible causes listed for spongy brakes, but interestingly degraded brake lines are not one of the listed causes.
Here's a screenshot from this part of the service manual:
But it is quite interesting to hear about braided steel cables. Seems a lot of people swear by them! I will definitely keep it in the back of my mind.
I do have rubber and plastic components that have degraded on my bike. So I know what you mean that at the age of my bike, stuff can start to go bad. Especially because I suspect this has always been an outdoor bike. The gas tank cap seal was aftermarket, but was cracked and degraded. The plastic clips that held the battery in place were degraded, etc. The speedometer now let's in moisture. Etc. There isn't any obvious degraded fuel or brake lines that I can discern from only a visual inspection.
I guess the problem I'm having with some of my issues (I have another one which is more of an annoyance than a huge issue) is that I can't readily discern the cause for them. I can keep pouring more and more money into the bike, but mechanical troubleshooting is so far beyond me that I'm afraid I'll end up making a money pit.
I've learned a lot of basic maintenance stuff this year that I haven't before. And I'm grateful to be able to do so. But it seems that I'm only really able to do general maintenance rather than extensive troubleshooting.
I only got my bike in the spring, but I'm contemplating trading it in for a new bike when 2027 models come out. Altho my big issue with that is I'm afraid of avoiding my warranty by doing my own maintenance. I'd rather do my maintenance myself. It's a tough call for me I guess.