this post was submitted on 16 Jun 2026
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Aight, since you needed to ask, chances are that you can't handle doing it, otherwise you'd be asking what methods to use, right?
But it is possible to DIY that job. It's even possible to do it without losing a lot of the hardened steel, and without majorly changing the profile. I wouldn't advise doing that job as your first effort, but it is totally within the range of skill a beginner can develop with a little practice before starting the actual job.
But, being real, just find a pro.
Caveats: there's very little in the way of proper certification for being a pro. Any rando with enough money to buy a belt grinder can claim to be a pro, and there's not usually any way to prove otherwise or hold them accountable for being full of shit. And, even an actual pro with a decade or more of experience might not know how to handle that steel in a way that keeps full functionality.
Tbh, while I could do it, I'd be shitting bricks the entire time because it isn't exactly something a skilled hobbyist does often. Like, I've done it maybe a dozen times overt the last thirty years, and it was only the last few that I felt fully proud of the results. It's all hand work if you want it done right, mostly. You can use powered tools for some parts of it, but you shouldn't because the faster the tools, the faster mistakes get out of hand and ruin things. Again, I've done this kind of thing, and I still wouldn't want to use power tools for anything but the very first stages. And I'd never, ever use a belt sander btw. Don't trust anyone trying to do so with a heat treated knife unless they have a proper cooling system for their gear. I sure as fuck don't lol
Anyway, mostly useless I guess, but point is that the knife isn't trashed. It did lose life span, no way around that, but it can be brought back to useful
Edit: checked the comments. What you're dealing with is a knife with layers.
There's a core of hardened steel, with a softer steel (though iron is sometimes used) on the sides. The hardened core may or may not extend all the way to the spine, but the typical Japanese knives I've seen don't. Hence the issue with just hogging off metal willy-nilly. You grind down too much, and it isn't impossible to not have any hardened steel left to work with at the kind of angle that a know if that style is really meant to have.
You can see, even in this pic, where the type of steel transitions. I doubt a good pic would show it, but sometimes, you can look at the front of the knife when it's a nakiri and see how much core there is. If it actually extends to or near the spine, there's a lot less issue with just grinding past the chips.
Thanks, I'll definitely run it over my waterstone a few thousand times and see the progress. Can't see the core fr the front but we have some very old school craftspeople around that offer sharpening courses, they will be my escalation point.
If you have access to something like a diamond lapping plate, that'll get you started faster, with the caveat that you have to work with the edge trailing or you'll just be making new chips. You can't "scrub" with those, or even the really coarse stones of other types, with harder steels. I mean, you can, but it isn't going to end well imo. I sure as hell wouldn't with a knife I cared about.
Fwiw, with something in the 400 grit range (or equivalent), it shouldn't take thousands of passes, just hundreds. Well, assuming the steel isn't freakishly hard. But I've never seen one like that that went over maybe 65 Rockwell. Ish. Obviously, if you've only got a single 1 stone, which is perfectly reasonable for 99% of what most people need, it'll take thousands lol.
Just to kinda babble on about something I enjoy as a tangent (so feel free to just ignore the rest lol), I tend to favor oil stones, particularly for rehab jobs like that, and leave the water stones more for polishing when I need/want something that can do fancy push cuts. It's what I reach for first with this kind of task. The coarser aluminium oxide stones can actually do a solid job on the Japanese steels, and they take less lapping over time by virtue of wearing slower.
There's the argument that water stones are exposing fresh grit faster, and thus the lower grit water stones can remove metal faster as well. However, I find that the faster wear of the stone shows up in a wonky bevel that then needs more time correcting. Plus, if you don't go with something crazy low grit (say, under 200 for this application) you can actually scrub as long as you're careful. I managed to do solid jobs on similar steel that way with no new chips.
Anyway, like I said, I'm just geeking here, not trying to get you to do any of that. It's really the kind of job that you either do because you enjoy it, do because someone is paying you, or you find someone else to do it :)
Love it, thanks for the nerdy deep dive. I appreciate the details.
So I think I did a pretty solid job. Turns out after cleaning there are two layers, the inner part which is the blade and another bit essentially enclosing from both sides. You can see the color changes. With a few tens of passes on the 400 grit I brought the blade down to the lowest dent and then rounded it off. Cuts through veggies like butter and I will keep an eye on additional cracking.