Home Assistant

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Wonderful-Form8449 on 2025-12-29 17:45:16+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/kyrsjo on 2025-12-29 17:24:42+00:00.

My whole-house heat-recovery ventilation system has a "manual boost mode", which kicks up the airflow for a set amount of time (I use 10 minutes). I want to trigger this when someone is showering, to control the humidity in the bathroom.

Most bathroom ventilators I've seen use a setpoint of a fixed value of RH. However, looking at the baseline RH inside through the year, I see that it varies between 30% (peak heating season) to 60% (humid summer). Thus, using a fixed setpoint would not work great, since an appropriate setpoint for winter might be lower than the summer baseline.

However, looking at the RH graph, I found it to very "spikey" - whenever someone showers, bathroom RH grows very fast, easily by 50% within less than a minute. So I setup a helper derivative sensor, which gets the d/dt of the bathroom RH humidity sensor reading. Plotting that for a while, it was very clear that it shows a neat spike at just the right time.

Taking the time derivative of using a derivative helper sensor provided a very very nice signal which is usually ca 0, but shoots up when someone showers.

Using this to trigger on "When $ddt_sensor is above 5 for 1 second" has so far been absolutely perfect, responding within ~10 seconds when turning on the shower, but never triggering when not needed.

The equipment used is an Aqara Temperature and Humidty T1 sensor connected via Zigbee2MQTT, and an Enervent ventilation system using the Enervent EDA Modbus Bridge.

(I tried to include images but got an error "All media assets must be owned by the submitter of this post")

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Puzzleheaded_Mind576 on 2025-12-29 11:31:13+00:00.

Hi everyone,

I integrated a (Harry Potter) magic caster wand with Home Assistant (HA)

I’ve just started the integration and am testing basic functionality, so I’ve only managed to identify a few spells so far.

If anyone knows how the spells work or has figured out additional spell behaviors, I’d really appreciate it if you could share them.

https://github.com/eigger/hass-magic-caster-wand.git

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/loonie01 on 2025-12-28 19:22:44+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/pheitman on 2025-12-29 01:10:19+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/FBAinsight on 2025-12-28 22:58:33+00:00.

Every post seems to be about settling for compromising performance in exchange for price. I'd like to spend a few more dollars and get something with an amazing touch screen, powerful and can be hardwired. Whats the highest end solution for this project in a 15-22" screen size?

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Pmaxxxx on 2025-12-29 03:26:05+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Hungry_Preference107 on 2025-12-28 23:13:15+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/selfhostcusimbored on 2025-12-28 21:37:44+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Aggravating-Salt8748 on 2025-12-28 19:38:29+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/lapelotanodobla on 2025-12-28 11:01:03+00:00.

Just so you folks know, you can now use any esp32c6 as thread dongle to make your HA become a thread border router.

YouTube is full of videos explaining how to do it with 2 esp boards (so the second board is the actual controller), but I found it simpler (no wiring/solder) and cheaper to just use one board as if it was a sonoff dongle.

The trick is to use the latest 6.1-dev version of the esp-idf framework, so you can follow any YouTube to create the radio co-processor, but on the menu choose usb as connection mode, once it’s flashed you just plug it and install the open thread border router add-on and Bob’s your uncle

Just my 2 cents, I thought it may be useful now that Ikea and others are moving to thread

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Eelviny on 2025-12-28 12:39:12+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/dittmeyer on 2025-12-28 12:31:26+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/victorhooi on 2025-12-28 09:19:56+00:00.

I'm wondering what the current recommendations are around wireless temperature/humidity sensors for HomeAssistant are?

I know that traditionally, 433Mhz/915Mhz sensors were preferred, due to longer range and better battery life.

However, some of the BLE/Wifi options seem alright - you get less range (50m or so) - but if you have either BLE proxies, or good wifi coverage outside, then I guess they could be a viable option?

| Model | HA Support? | RF Frequency | Battery (Battery Life) | Price (AUD) | |

|

|

|

|

| | Govee H5179 | Yes (BLE only) | 2.4Ghz (BLE/Wifi) | 3 x AA batteries | AUD 27.50 | | Shelly BLU H&T | Yes | 2.4Ghz (BLE) | 1 x CR2032 (3 years) | AUD 39.00 | | Accurite 06002M Replacement Sensor | Yes (via rtl_433) | 433Mhz | 2 x AA batteries | AUD 34.00 | | Ecowitt WN32 Outdoor Sensor | Yes (via rtl_433) | 433 Mhz | 2 x AA batteries (1 year) | AUD 25.99 |

What do people think - are the Accurite and Ecowitt sensors still better options?

They don't really seem cheaper than the BLE/Wifi options nowadays - and the battery life isn't that much better, at least compared to say the Shelly Blu H&T?

Are there any other good options?

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/ByzantiumIT on 2025-12-28 09:14:14+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/delvisity on 2025-12-27 21:19:14+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/theservman on 2025-12-27 20:13:50+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/daw_taylor on 2025-12-28 00:23:16+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/tiberiusgv on 2025-12-27 16:52:08+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Chiccocarone on 2025-12-27 16:55:44+00:00.

The idea behind making this integration started after I had issues with breakers constantly tripping due to going over the power budget for the house. So i started looking at automations to do this but since the logic to make something like this work reliably was very hard to implement via automations i decided to make an integration that does the heavy lifting for me. Its really straightforward to use since you just set your main house sensor and the power budget and then add singular controllable devices. All of this is easliy configurable from the ui. Today i released v1.1.0 which adds support for turning devices back on after balancing. If you're interested in this the integration is on github at https://github.com/chicco-carone/Power-Load-Balancer and can be installed via hacs. If there are any issues just open an issue on git so that I can take a look at it.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/sub3h on 2025-12-27 14:38:36+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/petyusa on 2025-12-27 08:40:50+00:00.

Hi everyone,

My family (2 adults, 2 small kids) is about to move into a new 130m² (approx. 1400 sq ft) apartment. We plan to live here for the long term, so I want to build a rock-solid foundation for my smart home.

I’m a software engineer, so I’m comfortable with the software side (HA, scripts, networking), but right now is my only window to run cables behind the walls.

Here is the floor plan of the apartment:

https://preview.redd.it/itgttdhblp9g1.png?width=1280&format=png&auto=webp&s=0568aa6448a9783435da5b8eaf921fb805947688

Hardware & Infrastructure planned:

• Networking: UniFi Dream Router (UDR) as the base, paired with a 16 or 24-port UniFi PoE switch.
• Ethernet everywhere: Dedicated Cat6a runs to every room, the home server, PC, and future console spots.
• Deep wall boxes: Every switch will have deep boxes to fit smart relays (Shelly/Sonoff) comfortably.
• Central Tablet: A wall-mounted dashboard with a dedicated PoE Ethernet run.
• LED Lighting: Ethernet runs to every location where I'll have LED strips for QuinLED controllers (WLED).
• HVAC: The apartment has a ceiling heating and cooling system. Integrating this into HA is a priority, especially for dew point monitoring during summer.

The Question: Since the walls are still open (Ytong/brick), what am I missing? What are those "I wish I had a cable there" moments you've experienced?

I’m thinking about mmWave presence sensors, motorized curtains, or specific sensors for the ceiling HVAC. If you were in my shoes with a clean slate and a dev background, what infrastructure would you prioritize to make the home future-proof for the next 10+ years?

Looking forward to your suggestions!

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/tabooki on 2025-12-27 02:23:12+00:00.

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/ComputerInaComputer on 2025-12-27 01:38:44+00:00.

Hey everyone,

I wanted to share a solution I built for a common problem: **getting "status" or notification triggers from a locked-down work laptop** that you can't install software on.

I use a PiKVM to access my work machine (keeps it isolated), but that meant my work laptop was basically a "dumb" video feed to the rest of my smart home. I couldn't trigger my "On A Call" light or get notifications on my speakers when I got a ping.

I built a Chrome extension called **PiKVM Watcher** to bridge this gap.

**How it works:**

1. It runs in your browser and watches the PiKVM video stream.
2. It uses **local OCR** (Tesseract.js) to read the screen in real-time.
3. When it detects specific text (like "Incoming Call", "New Message", or a custom keyword), it fires a **Webhook**.

**The Home Assistant Integration:**

You can point that webhook directly to a Home Assistant webhook trigger.

* *Scenario 1:* Detect "Incoming Call" -> Turn office lights Red.

* *Scenario 2:* Detect "New Message" -> TTS announcement on smart speaker.

* *Scenario 3:* Detect "Meeting Started" -> Pause music.

**Privacy/Security:**

This was big for me. The video stream **never** leaves your local network. The OCR processing happens entirely inside your browser instance. It only sends the webhook payload you define.

Ideally, this helps anyone else who is trying to integrate a "black box" work laptop into their HA setup without installing forbidden agents on the machine itself.

https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/pikvm-watcher/mhkgijhgjafoaifgdgmnfgeacnfnlfmm

https://pikvmwatcher.com/en

This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/ApolloAutomation on 2025-12-26 20:05:55+00:00.