Home Assistant

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Home Assistant is open source home automation that puts local control and privacy first. Powered by a worldwide community of tinkerers and DIY...

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Lost_Significance_33 on 2026-06-24 13:35:39+00:00.

Original Title: If you're looking for a budget-friendly way to mount a tablet for Home Assistant, I put together a magnetic wall mount for roughly $5. It provides a clean, low-profile installation and costs a fraction of the commercial alternatives.

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Foreign-War7559 on 2026-06-24 11:48:03+00:00.


Most appliance-level energy monitoring in Home Assistant means adding a smart plug, clamp meter, or submeter for every device. That gets expensive fast, and it is not always practical for hardwired or high-current appliances.

I built a NILM (Non-Intrusive Load Monitoring) project that uses a single whole-home mains power sensor to estimate when individual appliances are running and their approximate power use.

You train a model on your own Home Assistant history, so it can adapt to your appliances and electrical setup. It can then publish virtual entities for estimated appliance power, cumulative energy consumption, and on/off state.

These can be used in dashboards, automations, notifications, and the Home Assistant Energy dashboard.

Training supports either a real appliance sensor as ground truth, or manually marked on/off intervals when direct metering is not possible.

It is an estimate, not a replacement for a meter, so results need validation. It is most useful for appliances with distinctive, repeatable power signatures: washers, dishwashers, kettles, microwaves, and similar loads.

Project: ha-nilm on GitHub

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/the_Skimmy on 2026-06-24 16:36:39+00:00.


After years of running a pretty extensive smart home (50+ Shelly devices, HomeMatic IP, Hue, Zigbee, the works), I stumbled across something today that I somehow completely missed: Shelly Plus and Gen3 devices can act as Bluetooth proxies for Home Assistant.

I always knew my Shellys had a BLE chip, but I assumed it was only there for initial setup. Turns out you can enable BLE scanning in the Shelly settings AND flip a switch in the HA Shelly integration per device, and suddenly your existing Shelly infrastructure becomes a BLE scanner network – no additional hardware required.

Combined with the HACS integration Bermuda BLE Trilateration, I now have room-level presence detection using devices I already owned. I activated sixteeen of my Shellys as scanners, extracted the IRK from macOS Keychain for my Apple Watch, added it via Home Assistant’s built-in Private BLE Device integration, and within an hour my Watch was being tracked room by room across the house.

What you need:

  • Shelly Plus or Gen3 devices (Plus 1PM, PM Mini Gen3, Plus Plug S, Plug S Gen3 etc.) – Gen1 does NOT support this

  • Home Assistant Shelly integration: set BLE scanner mode to “Auto” per device

  • Enable BLE + BLE Gateway in the Shelly web interface

  • Bermuda BLE Trilateration (HACS)

  • A BLE beacon: Apple Watch/iPhone via IRK, a Tile tracker, or any BLE tag

Tips:

Assign your scanner Shellys to areas in HA – Bermuda uses this for room detection

The more scanners spread across your home, the better the accuracy

For Apple devices: the IRK is sitting in macOS Keychain Access, search for “Bluetooth”, find your device’s public MAC and grab the Remote IRK from the XML

If you’ve got Shellys and haven’t looked into this – go check your integration settings right now. You might already have a BLE scanner network and not know it.

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/rosone on 2026-06-24 15:32:10+00:00.

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Valuable-Dog490 on 2026-06-24 12:13:56+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Obvious-Cranberry-29 on 2026-06-24 11:27:16+00:00.

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/gosuzbone on 2026-06-24 01:20:15+00:00.


I'm closing on my first home in one week. I've been doing some (read: a lot) of research about smart home automation and I'm fascinated by the level of customization possible within home assistant. My problem: it's a lot to take in and I have information overload.

I'm hoping the folks here can steer me in the right direction as I start my smart home journey. I've ordered an Aqara G410 video doorbell Aqara W200 Smart Thermostat and have two smart plugs I bought a couple of years ago sitting in storage.

A few questions I'd love direction on:

  1. How important is it to stick to one protocol: Zigbee vs Zwave vs Matter. I chose the Aqara devices because they use Matter and I've heard that is the future of smart home integration.
  2. How do I know when I need a hub or border router?
  3. When should I invest in a dedicated machine to run HA?
  4. What are your must-have devices (bulbs, outlets, etc) that make your smart home run well?

Thanks in advance!

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/bloodytemplar on 2026-06-23 19:50:53+00:00.

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/pafdanstagueule on 2026-06-23 09:52:40+00:00.


FYI I’m in Europe.

I’m looking for a pre charged model unit which I will install by myself and would like to have HA control.

I’m quite handy.

Probably a mono split.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/beiendbjsi788bkbejd on 2026-06-23 20:23:51+00:00.


Dear friends, it is with joy that I can proudly say I've reached the state at which I don't feel the need to optimise more.

After years of tinkering, going from Raspberry Pi to corrupting multiple SD-cards, overheating USB-sticks used for hosting the OS, overheating my Linux miniPC, forgetting to backup to another system than the host system, spending a day getting pulled into a hallucinated debug trail by an LLM to configure KVM on Linux... (it's actually not that hard if you just watch a tutorial on Youtube)

... I've finally configured all my lights, sensors, robo-vacuum cleaner, automations, notifications, and have achieved close to 100% up time over the past year.

Maintenance time is virtually non-existent so now I can finally enjoy the fruits of my labor (family doesn't even complain!!)

May all my fellow HA-passionate community members once come to this moment of joy, it exists!

Edit: To some haters who don’t think I enjoyed the journey: I enjoyed the learning curve a lot! Learned lots about computers, virtual machines, Linux, IoT, it’s been a real pleasure tbh to now feel like I’ve created a system which is running with high stability. Also, I’m not saying I won’t ever touch HA again, for the first time it’s giving me more than I put effort in, which is just really satisfying.

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/akanatrix on 2026-06-23 18:54:16+00:00.


I would say I have a medium size deployment of Home Assistant. I have eight Thread devices, 55 Zigbee devices, and a smattering of Wi-Fi devices. I also have a medium size deployment of UniFi devices, with three access points in my house and one of them is directly next to my dongles for Zigbee and Thread. Now that I have the groundwork laid, I am an idiot. I have been having issues with mostly Zigbee and a little bit for Thread. Devices would be slow to activate when triggered, remotes would not work or be very delayed, over-the-air updates would fail 99% of the time, devices would fall off network, reliability was terrible. I was met with a constant disapproval of my wife over my smart home automation hobby.

My salvation came from realizing that my Zigbee setup defaulted to channel 11. Several months ago I changed my Wi-Fi channel to 1 as that part of the spectrum was not occupied by my neighbors. My UniFi access points have been strangling my devices in a death grip for several months. Once I changed the zigbee channel away from that end of the spectrum, all my issues went away. Everything responds instantly, updates are seamless, everything just works. Aqara, IKEA, Philips, doesn't matter what the brand is; it just works. My wife's disapproval is limited to me telling her to not flip wall switches.

Don't be like me, make sure you don't have radio overlap. Ted Talk over.

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/sfortis on 2026-06-23 16:49:58+00:00.

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/objektiver_Dritter on 2026-06-23 15:17:24+00:00.

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/foggerD on 2026-06-23 09:06:26+00:00.


Greater transparency for Thread networks: The new Matter Server 9.0.0 in Home Assistant now displays the mesh network topology graphically by default.

With this new version, the Open Home Foundation has completed the transition from the Python server to matter.js. https://matter-smarthome.de/en/products/home-assistants-new-matter-server-is-a-game-changer/

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/BackHerniation on 2026-06-23 12:48:17+00:00.


Hey everyone,

I made a huge list of smart home deals for Amazon’s prime day sale. I went through every major smart brand I could think of and dug up over 500 deals. You can find it here:

Smart home deals for Amazon prime day

I organized everything into tables with the original price, deal price and discount percentage. I added anchors for easy navigation as the page became quite long.

The sale/discounts themselves are not as good as I had hoped for. It seems inflation and tariffs are doing their thing, so in some instances there isn't even a discount. Just an inflated original price and a "sale" price the device regularly sells for. There are some nice discounts here and there, but most are underwhelming. If you just think of the whole sale as just a chance to save a few bucks instead of thinking you are getting 50% off, you are good and shouldn't feel cheated.

To get the the most out of these events, I highly suggest you use a tool like Keepa. Look at the price history graph it adds on the item page and you'll see if the discount is real and if you are getting a deal at all. I don't recommend CamelCamelCamel, as for some reason it seems to have less historical data on smart devices compared to Keepa.

Hope this useful, let me know if you need help or advice with something.

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Rambunctious_Relf on 2026-06-23 10:25:29+00:00.


I recently built a talking toaster by adding AI inside it. If you've watched Red Dwarf, you'll get the reference. A toaster with a personality that desperately pesters everyone in earshot to eat toast, whether they want any or not.

The voice assistant side was easy enough. ESP32 inside the toaster shell, with a mic and a speaker. Connected back to the Home Assistant pipeline with ChatGPT for the brain and ElevenLabs for the voice. A system prompt telling the LLM to act like the character from the show.

The annoying bit was the wake word. A wake word just isn't right for a character whose entire personality is to pester you. It couldn't wait to be told when to activate. So I added a PIR sensor and created an automation that triggers the assist satellite to start a conversation whenever the sensor sees motion.

It works really well, just like a wake word, except the trigger is "you walked into the kitchen" instead of "you said the magic phrase". It starts with a randomised opening line ("Howdy doodly do! Fancy some toast?" and variations), then listens for your reply, and continues like a normal voice assistant conversation.

The trigger doesn't have to be a PIR specifically. Any sensor can trigger the automation to make the voice assistant start. Might give others ideas for making voice assistants more interactive.

My toaster is now genuinely annoying to live with. Exactly as planned, I love it!

Full build guide linked here if anyone is interested: https://www.instructables.com/Talkie-Toaster-an-AI-Powered-Talking-Toaster-Obses/

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Ambitious_Beyond_870 on 2026-06-22 15:35:13+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/JohnathanRalphio on 2026-06-23 07:27:32+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Secret_Friend on 2026-06-23 01:03:55+00:00.

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Any_Slice9096 on 2026-06-22 17:02:45+00:00.


I built TopoMation because my Home Assistant occupancy automations stopped fitting the simple "one room, one motion sensor, one light" model.

TopoMation is a custom Home Assistant integration where you model the home as a hierarchy: property, buildings, grounds, floors, areas, and subareas. Each level can have its own occupancy entity, and the integration can generate normal Home Assistant automations from that model.

The cases that pushed me toward this were things like:

  • bathrooms without dedicated motion sensors, where the light switch is still a useful occupancy signal
  • pantries/closets that need very short hold times
  • bedrooms where mmWave/presence should hold longer than motion
  • kitchen/family-room layouts where two HA areas behave like one open space
  • devices that belong to a floor, building, driveway, yard, or whole property instead of one room
  • wanting simple entities like "anyone upstairs", "anyone outside", or "anyone on the property"

The screenshots show:

  1. The TopoMation hierarchy/tree.
  2. A Basement Hallway lighting rule: room becomes occupied, only if it is dark, turn on the hallway light.
  3. Ambient config: inherited lux source and dark/bright thresholds.
  4. Generated Home Assistant automation: normal trigger, condition, and action.

It is still beta, and I am looking for feedback from people with occupancy-heavy setups or weird real-house edge cases.

Repo:

https://github.com/mjcumming/topomation

Examples:

https://github.com/mjcumming/topomation/blob/main/docs/examples.md

https://preview.redd.it/hzl62t8l8v8h1.png?width=973&format=png&auto=webp&s=aefd8bcc2253cf5ce823ce3ecb080c06058d4ad6

https://preview.redd.it/97wc1u8l8v8h1.png?width=1656&format=png&auto=webp&s=5ae6c0b0d313a749e6d0d751c2d6af21a0369d3a

https://preview.redd.it/qv084u8l8v8h1.png?width=1658&format=png&auto=webp&s=a900f468df98628caaea923a33b19908de59bcd0

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/stonedkrypto on 2026-06-23 00:45:48+00:00.

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/dcoulson on 2026-06-22 21:47:21+00:00.


I've been fighting with how awful my dashboards are on various wall mount tablets I've tested. I finally picked up an Android 14 PoE tablet, and no matter what I did the user experience was garbage.

I didn't build this and I think it's mostly vibe coded, but holy shit:

https://github.com/GabrielGoldsteinAnidea/HA-Websocket-Stripper

Dashboard load times for my regular non-tablet view that has around 130 entities on it when using Fully Kiosk

  • Native - 32s
  • Stripped - 9s

It deploys as an app/Add-On and exposes HA on a new port that limits what entity updates are send to the device. My HA instance has ~22k entities, but I only need around 200 for my dashboards - Other option was to setup a remote HA instance and feed my tablet dashboard off that, but that would require manually specifying entities to forward over and this does it automatically by scraping your dashboards.

Totally night and day improvement.

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/Vikdb on 2026-06-22 21:36:20+00:00.


Had to go look for the remote and change the batteries.. first world problems!

Maybe they should reconsider local control :)

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The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/froggtech on 2026-06-22 19:38:52+00:00.


My utility (Consumers Energy, Michigan) switched to summer time-of-use pricing on June 1 — ~24.5¢/kWh weekdays 2–7 PM, ~19.7¢/kWh every other hour. So I built a system to shift my AC load out of that expensive window automatically. The standard advice is "pre-cool then back off the thermostat," but I didn't want to babysit it, and a flat schedule is dumb on days that aren't average. So I made it adaptive to the forecast.

The shape is three beats — pre-cool, coast, restore — plus a comfort layer for my office.

The clever bit: the setpoints scale to the day's forecast high. A helper grabs the OpenWeather forecast high each morning, and the pre-cool depth keys off it:

  • ≥90°F → pre-cool to 66
  • ≥82°F → 68
  • ≥76°F → 70
  • below 74°F → skip entirely (house coasts fine on its own)

Then at 2 PM the coast ceiling scales inversely — hot days coast lower (74), mild days higher (78) — because on a brutal day I'd rather the compressor kick back on than cook the office. Measured ~2.2°F/hr pulldown and ~1°F/hr drift, so on a normal day the compressor stays off the whole 2–7 window.

Comfort layer: an Apollo MSR-2 mmWave sensor runs the office fan at 33% only when I'm actually in the room (mmWave, so it doesn't quit when I'm sitting still). The fan buys ~4°F of felt cooling for pennies. A guardrail drops the thermostat to 72 only if the office passes 83°F for 10 min and it's occupied — so an empty office never triggers the expensive override.

Two helpers hold it together: a master-enable boolean (one toggle kills the whole system) and the forecast-high number. Seven automations total.

Honest caveat: I don't have whole-home energy monitoring yet, so I can't show a dollar figure — just the mechanism, which is sound. That's the next build.

Full writeup with all seven automations as copy-paste YAML (genericized):

https://testing12.org/i-taught-my-house-to-dodge-peak-rates-a-home-assistant-peak-shaving-system/

Happy to answer questions on any of it.

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This is an automated archive made by the Lemmit Bot.

The original was posted on /r/homeassistant by /u/MrChristmas1988 on 2026-06-22 16:24:54+00:00.

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