Bicycle Touring and Bikepacking

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For all the pedal pushers out there that love long distance cycling. There are no gear requirements and no 'minimum distances' here.

Have you ridden for a cheeky overnighter or a 3 year global trek? Doesn't matter, you're welcome here.

Have you got panniers, bikepacking bags or just a backpack with the essentials? Doesn't matter, you're welcome here.

Have you got the latest in carbon engineering or your dads old 10 speed from the 70's? Doesn't matter, you're welcome here.


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Crosposted from !camping@sh.itjust.works.

When I was about to break down my tent, six white Sardinian shepherd dogs showed up. Beautiful medium sized dogs. They were barking a bit, kept a bit of distance, eventually figured I was alright, then left. Guess they had work to do.

I left camp and cycled along this dirt track, which seemed to be a real promising panoramic path to go, when I ran into the group again. The sheep were right at the track and the dogs blocked my way. I stood there for a bit, tried what happened if I pushed my bike a bit more towards them, but they did not seem to like that whatsoever. Bummer. Well at least they left me alone through the night, i heard the sheep's bells and dog's barks all around me when i got here yesterday and was a bit worried they'd bark me out of the spot in the night.

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Anyway, i did not want to test how far they would go and decided to turn around and take a different route along some asphalt road, which was also real nice, nobody around but some cows, sheep and cork trees.

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First of all sorry I broke my phone and my backup phone can't resize pictures so I can't directly load them here.

So if some of you follow my mastodon account you know that I got to Brussels, damn 2 months not posting here and where I got.

In France I met El and she showed me a bit around the coast, we were riding together for a week there. Each of us wanted to see something bit different so we split in Nantes and I promised that I will join her in CZ to show her around. So that's what's happening now I am in train riding through Germany (not yet) and have spare time pretty much all night (I don't expect that I will get much sleep). If you have any questions about my journey don't hesitate to ask.

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Review of my bikepacking gear I brought on a 5-day trip around northern Germany. Starting at the end of March, temps were still kind of low (from 7 to 15 degrees Celsius during the day), no prediction for rain. Weight of the bike was around 10 kg, with gear I hit a total of 23 kg - so 13 kg worth of gear.

Handlebar bag

  • Naturehike 2-person tent

The space it gave me was worth the extra size/weight. Especially with it being kind of cold, I rested in the tent quite a bit. Never used any other light tents, so no clear reference there. I was happy with my choice: It's kind of stealthy, has some decent ventilation (which I didn't need), and I can take it down from the inside out (which is nice with rainy days).

Fork bag 1

  • Sponge and soap bar
  • Air pump (never had to use it)
  • Lights
  • MSR Fuel bottle

Not much to say here, soap might be replaced with something smaller next time. Never used the lights or the pump, but would always bring them. The fuel bottle was transported with the pump installed; the normal lit stayed at home.

Fork bag 2

  • Sea to Summit ultralight sleeping pad

Had to get it for the trip and loved it! Due to space issues, I had to leave my foam sleeping pad at home, which had me concerned about the cold and comfort, but these were no issue whatsoever. Would still like to bring the foam pad next time, to just throw it somewhere on the ground and lay down for a minute.

Frame bag

  • MSR whisperlite burner
  • Repair stuff (for: tube, cooker, sleeping pad. Some rope)
  • E-reader
  • Zip-ties
  • Folding lock
  • Socks
  • Toiletries
  • First aid kit

The MSR whisperlite multifuel is totally overkill (for where I was at least) - I could save quite some space and weight here, but I love it! It just works; I don't have to buy tanks that get trashed after they are empty; it's cheap to run, and I love the thought that it will last me a lifetime (hopefully). Repair stuff speaks for itself, wish I had brought some tape though. E-reader instead of carrying 2 books. The folding lock might be replaced by something lighter later on. It's a fine lock, but it never gave me a feeling of safety when I left my bike and all my stuff somewhere. Something that really allows the bike to be locked around a pole might be better. I don't expect people to cut a lock in broad daylight here, and if they want my stuff or carry the bike away, a beefier lock is not stopping them. Thin socks were never used due to the cold. I wore some merino socks all the time and loved it. Had two pairs and might have gotten away with one. Toiletries and first aid kit.

Top tube and phone

  • Phone for navigation
  • Cables and charger
  • Powerbank
  • Cash

Photo of the top tube pack is missing, it's some random waterproof with a zipper. I don't love the access the zipper gives, but perfect for the price. For navigation, I only used my phone mounted with a Nite Ize squeeze. Great holder, no extra case or stuff you have to add; I never feared that my phone could come off. OSMand was the navigation software of my choice and it worked very well. Awesome because I could use what I had and did not have to buy some new tech that gets outdated in 2 years. Trip recording also worked fine. Some voice instructions got confusing, but I turned the screen on in cities, which helped a lot. Never used Google Maps or a bike computer for navigation, so no reference here. I made the conscious decision to not bring headphones, and it was fine with the speakers just turned up. Don't forget your coins when you end up on a German camping ground ;)

Seat pack

(filthy clothes not shown)

  • Rain pants
  • Rain jacket
  • Shoe covers
  • Sleeping bag (not compressed on the photo ;))
  • 3 Shirts
  • 2 pairs of socks
  • Sweatpants
  • Merino long sleeve

No rain on the trip, but the rain gear was used on the cold last day. The sleeping bag is a Cumulus 350 quilt. First time quilt and I had no issues with it whatsoever. One shirt for sleeping, two for riding. I could've gotten away with my one Merino shirt for riding maybe. Too much underwear as well. Was always riding with my bike shorts and showered before changing clothes, one or two pairs of underwear would be sufficient. Always wore shorts above the bike shorts as well, which I prefer when getting off the bike and walking around places. There was a hoodie I was wearing most of the time, as well as two buffs. Very important for comfort, even while sleeping.

Backpack / on top of seat pack

  • Dry bag
  • Adiletten
  • Fork and spoon
  • Toaks 1100 ml pot with bail handle
  • Dishwashing detergent
  • Spices
  • Swiss army knife
  • Tea
  • Instant coffee
  • Rain jacket

Due to space issues, all of this ended up in a backpack and later on in a dry bag strapped to the seat pack. Not fun, make sure everything fits before you take off! Some shoes to use while showering/the day is over. Bulky but a must have for me. Foldable fork and spoon, the SAK was the only knife I brought but never needed it. The Toaks titanium pot was something I had to buy and I am very happy with it. Perfect for some pasta, also used it as a cup multiple times a day. The instant coffee is something that might make me bring a mocka pot on the next trip. If you need coffee: bring it along. If you enjoy coffee: don't. Grab coffee somewhere or bring a dedicated setup. Tea became the warm beverage of my choice and it was very nice to sit on some bench in the forest and enjoy a nice warm cup of tea.

Bags

The bags were rented, which was an awesome opportunity to check it out without spending hundreds of euros on bags. And I am happy I did it that way! I guess it was a combination of my gear selection, packing skills and the weather, but space got super tight. And I know you are meant to squeeze the seat pack, but I just didn't like the packing and unpacking process and trying to get everything to fit. Panniers seem much more to my liking. Still, all the Apidura bags felt very well-made, sturdy, the zippers were good, and I am sure they could deal with some rain!

Final thoughts

For the gear, I tried to go with what I had and add as needed. Very happy with my selection all around and I don't see the need for any drastic changes (apart from the panniers!). Even without washing I could cut down on some clothing. On my next (warmer) trip, I will just bring some soap. Stove situation is also kind of bulky, but like I said: I just love it. Before departing on the trip, I made sure to take a long ride with cleats and decided against them. They caused me some knee pain, so I just went with normal shoes, which worked out perfect. Before the next trip I will get some bike fitting done, but even then I might just do my bikepacking with normal shoes!

That's about it, maybe this helps someone with their setup. It felt great to stop thinking and start riding!

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I was looking for some info on butterfly handlebars and ran accross this website and i was just BLOWN away by the amount of contributions and information density.

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The last 2 days in #Spain were mixed, I rode from El Rocío which has this wild west feel to it but I foolishly decided to rode through it on bike. It was bad idea all roads are this fine sand and lots of potholes, probably good for the horses but nearly unrideable on my bike.

From there I got on the coastal route, that was nice separated or with little to no car traffic. That quickly changed before Huelva where the EV route goes through oil refinery and then suddenly change to highway with pretty nasty intersection.

After Huelva the few km I had to camp was really nice on bike line along the highway.

#bikepacking #biketouring #BikeTooter #europebybike @bicycle_touring

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It was fine nothing broken but I was bit scared when I saw it.

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Further to the post (Here) I thought I would give more information about our entire journey for the people who might find it useful.

The Beginning

It started when we watched Ed Pratt's videos on unicycling around the world and it gave me the idea to also do a long cycle tour. My girlfriend is from Poland so the idea of cycling to Warsaw over the summer seemed like a fun idea and much to my amazement, she agreed to it aswell.

Preparations

I volunteer at a charity in Aberdeen called BeCycle. (Also the Instagram We fix bikes that were donated then loan them out to people who want one, like refugees, kids and anyone else. It's a mix of people who just want to get around the city and people who want to get into the sport but might not have the money. From there I was able to get both my, and my girlfriend's bikes and fixed them up during the rare quiet moments in the workshop and spare evenings that we had.

My bike is a Shogun trailbreaker (blue /green one) (picture of me working on it below) .

I think from 1992, the gears had previously been upgraded to a 2x10 drive train with a normal front chain ring (42 tooth) and a tiny granny gear for the steep hills (23 tooth).I swapped the handle bars for a set of 46cm gravel bars and some foam bar tape. I also rebuilt the bottom bracket, headset, both front and back wheels and anything else mechanical with new grease and new bearings for one wheel. I added a front and back pannier rack with some slight modifications to the bike as it didn't have the place on the frame to bolt them on.

My girlfriend's bike is a Specialised Hardrock (red one) also from the early 90s. We changed it to have a 2x7 drive train (brilliant find in the parts bin to get nearly matching shifters) with a slightly smaller front chainring (38 tooth?) And a granny gear aswell. We swapped the straight bars for some butterfly bars as they gave more hand positions. We also rebuilt the headset, wheels and bottom bracket. And swapped the seat to a really old brooks saddle.

With the exception of my handlebars both bikes were made with parts that were around the workshop so some might not be the newest or the lightest, but they work and I know how to fix them if they break.

My front bag was a donation to the workshop, it is made by trek and sits on top of the rack with 2 fold out pockets and was brilliant (would have been even better if it was waterproof). I made the green bags at the local library. They have a roll access and are secured with some straps and buckles. They bolt onto the frame at the water bottle cage mounts and are secured other places with double sided velcro loops. One mistake I made with them was making them slightly too big, this caused the sides to bulge out too much and they would rub against the cranks and the chainrings, causing holes. Also while I tried to make them waterproof, they did let some water in if it rained all day. The rear bags are just 30l dry bags with rucksack straps, ment for paddleboarding. Cheapest place to get them is go outdoors. The pink bag on the Shogun has tools, tape and other usefull bits in it. The waterbottle stem bags were really useful for carrying our bottles in easy reach, also sometimes put snacks in them too. It was difficult to put them on the Hardrock as the bars and cables got in the way of the stem, one thing I would change would be how they were attached to the bike so they were easier to get bottles in and out of. The fuel for our stove was carried in the red bottle you can see in some of the pictures. It's difficult to find a bottle cage big enough as I don't think they are made anymore. Originally we used a bottle cage that could stretch over the bottle but it broke near Berwick upon Tweed and I just tied the bottle on. Eventually we bought a side loading cage that held it allot better, it had to be moved to the Shogun as it no longer fit where it was on the Hardrock before. There were no cage mounts on the bottom of the hardrock (or on the pannier rack of the Shogun) so to attach it I cut a bottle cage down so only the Frame mounts were left, then bolted it to the other waterbottle cage with some washers imbertween, this left a gap to put 2 hose clamps around it and hold it to the frame (with some tape to protect it).

Equipment

These pictures are of the stuff we started with. We did add to the things we carried throughout the trip. Main ones were changing from foam mats to self inflating ones (OEX 3/4 length) as they were more comfortable and easier to carry. We got new pots that replaced the mess tins, not by choice, they got stolen at a camp site. Once we left Scotland we found that we were carrying too many clothes so we left some at our parents. I got a packable bag so that when we are off the bike I have a bag to carry things. Lost the first one in Amsterdam so had to buy another one. I had an old GoPro hero 3 that I took with us, while it was really good the battery is 10 years old so doesn't last that long. It was attached to the bars of the hardrock most of the time, a way to quickly detach it would have been good to take pictures with as our phones were difficult to get at as they had headphones and charging wires coming from them most of the time. Speaking of technology, I had a big power bank in my green bag and a cable that ran from inside out the top of the bag and to the phone, had to buy an adaptor so I could listen to music and charge at the same time as apple stole my phone's headphone jack. Wired headphones are the best as they are dirt cheap if they break and can't fall out and get lost. Having a big powerbank was very nice as we could go 2-3 days without power easily without caring about how much we used our phones. A problem we had was not being able to charge everything when we did have electricity, a second plug would have been very useful for this.

One of the blue bags had the tent and the self inflating mats in it, the other had our clothes and sleeping bags in it, this ment that we would only have to open the bag inside the tent when it was raining which help keep stuff dry. The green bags had things that we would only need less often, like bulk food and heavy things like the the power bank. The front bags had most of our food and other things we needed to get to regularly. It made the front quite heavy but overall worked ok. We carried about 1.5 l of water each then I carried another 1.5 l in my green bag.

The Journey It took us 2 months in total. Here is how our bikes looked when we left.

We cycled about 40 miles in the first day and wild camped near a place called inverbervie. From then, weather wasn't brilliant and it was really windy, that combined with the worry about the trip made that first night really stressful, we both had a good long cry about how worried we were that we wouldn't make it more than a few days and that that night we would get soaked. We made it to Dundee the next day and stayed in a hostel, it was a welcome break from being outside.

The next day we managed to find our first warm showers host. The wind for the past few days had been a 30mph head wind, if felt like cycling up hill wherever we went, it also rained allot during that time. Our host drove out to find us, I have never been so happy to see the face of a total stranger. They were truly incredible and gave us so much advice on cycling through Europe. We felt so welcome with them and were refreshed with a new plan on how to continue.

The next day we cycled to stay with a friend near Edinburgh where we stayed a day, it was nice to refresh after the last couple of days and to see a familiar face.

Over the next few days we cycled down the east coast of the UK (upon the advice of our first host), to try and avoid the major hills although there were still many. We stayed with many brilliant warm showers hosts in that time as we worked our way to Newcastle, we stayed with some family friends who I hadn't met in years, it was so nice to see them again. I wanted to ride the metro while we were there (cuz I'm a huge nerd) the only time we had the chance was when we had our bikes, the times and places worked out that we didn't get the chance, but only got told after we purchased the tickets. Once again we stayed there for a few days.

We next cycled to York, again following the coast for the first bit, before cutting inland. We cycled through allot of very deprived towns during this time. And stayed with some fantastic people, also managed to get a really cheap room in a pub for the night, which was nice as it pissed it down outside then. By this time we had fallen into a routine, we would wake up and start cycling about 9:30am, cycle until about 1pm, have lunch for half an hour, then cycle again until about 5pm. In the UK it was easiest to find warm showers hosts, which made it much easier as this was our first bike tour ever . We stayed in York for a few days to see the city, we went for a tour around the city centre and saw a few museums (highly recommend the national railway museum).

From there we cycled to Warwickshire to see my girlfriends parents and stay with them for a while. I had to go back to Aberdeen to re-sit an exam so it was a good place to stop for a bit. And a good chance to get some bike parts from the workshop in Aberdeen. And to relax for a bit (at least for my girlfriend, I was stressed revising for an exam). When I got back we spent a few days getting ready and I replaced the chain on my bike as it was stretched so much that I was having trouble with my gears. I also changed serviced the breaks on both the Shogun and Hardrock, replacing most of them at that time.

From Warwickshire we wanted to cycle along the grand union canal through Milton Keynes. Once we got on it we found it to be mostly uncycleable. The grass on the banks had just been cut so there was no clear path, and cycling through the cut grass was slow, bumpy and difficult. We decided to change the route to go on the roads for a while until the path along the canal became passable, which it eventually did. Our next big challenge was getting through London, to my parents who live in Kent. The route we took lead us around the north of the city, then along the river lea as there is a nice bike path that takes you right into the city centre with no cars. We stayed the night with our last warm showers host in the UK. It was difficult to find anyone as it was the day of the world cup final so not many people were free. We didn't plan to stay in London, my parents live close to it so I have visited lots of times before. We decided to get the Thames clipper boat to Greenwich to try and skip the centre of the city, both for time and safety reasons as it let us cycle from London to my parents in a day. We stayed at my parents for a day to recover and so I could swap some of our kit with some stuff I had stored there. I also booked the ferry tickets then, unfortunately the website didn't work on my phone for some reason so I couldn't do it early. As it later turned out, I booked them for the wrong day.

We cycled from there to Dover, staying with a family friend half way. At Dover we stayed in a hostel called "Dover Adventure Backpackers" it was next to the harbour. It was cheap and got the job done but really run down, there were holes in the floor in places but the people running it were really nice.

The next day we crossed the channel to Calais.The cycle from calais to where we stayed the night was my least favourite day, the cycle network had lots of closures and diversions which made the route much longer than planned. It was also so hot that day my phone overheated if i left it on my handle bars so i had it in a pocket, I hit a pot hole and it bounced out, cracking the screen despite the thick case and screen protector. We stayed with an amazing warm showers host and his family for that night, they get lots of cyclists through there so we were very appreciative of being hosted for the night. From there we slept in campsites and using another app called welcome to my garden as we made our way to Brugge. We found it was becoming harder and harder to find people to stay with. We stayed with a welcome to my garden host in Brugge for a weekend to rest and recover, it was starting go get very hot by this point.

There were lots of ferrys from Brugge to Amsterdam, they are very frequent and most are free, some cost a few euro. It was also mostly along busy canal paths, it was a steep learning curve being with other cyclists for the first time and hard keeping our bikes out the way of others as they handle like boats. It was also very flat by this point and with few trees of hedges it was difficult to find shelter or a spot for the toilet. This was made more difficult as you have to pay for everything like toilets and cash machines that we were not used to in the UK. The cash issue was made worse by the crowdstrike update that bricked all the atm's we could find.

We couldn't find a person to stay with in Amsterdam so we stayed at a campsite on the edge of the city, it was very nice however we had our cooking pots stolen while we left them out to dry.

From Amsterdam it started to get less enjoyable, the days were very hot and we were starting to encounter more hills again. Also now that we were passing through countries less quickly the feeling of progress was reduced. One of the most enjoyable things for us was meeting people along the way however there were not as many people to stay with along our route however the one or 2 people we were able to stay with were brilliant. Fortunately in Hamburg we were able to find a really amazing host who we were able to stay with for 2 days, really not enough for a city as big as Hamburg and we wish we could have stayed longer.

At Hamburg we decided that we wouldn't make it to Warsaw in time as we had to be back in Aberdeen for September, if we wanted to see any of my girlfriend's family we would have to get the train to Warsaw from Szczecin. I tried to book it on the website however every seat was taken on every train I looked at, I figured that this was a bug with the website and we would just have to buy it at the station.

From Hamburg we were able to find no warm showers, welcome to my garden, or 1nite tent's (another app for places to camp). We didn't want to wild camp as we were very tired and didn't need that additional stress. One night we were able to find a caravan that we could stay in. It was very nice to sleep in a proper bed for the first time in 5 days, not sure it was worth the 50 euro that we paid for it though.

It was a relief to finally cross the border into Poland as we both had had enough of being outside and wanted a rest. We missed talking to other people as that was one of our favourite parts of the trip. I think the light at the end of the tunnel made us more tired aswell as it was always in the back of our heads "just a few more days". Our final night was at a very nice campsite called "camp costa" the facilities were very good and they had food and beer that was cheap, only downside was the tent was on a bit of a slope.

I don't have that much to say about the later parts of our trip, as by the end it got a bit samey. We fell into a routine of cycling which made it a bit uneventful and also we met less people along the way which made it even less exciting. I think that the main conclusion that we got from this whole experience is that our future tours are going to be much shorter just to keep us motivated.

In szczecin my girlfriends mum got us a room so stay in for a few days. We found out that the trains were infact full so we had a panic while we tried to work out how we were going to leave. We were able to get the flixbus that carried our bikes overnight to Warsaw. In the morning we were very tired so it was difficult to feel happy about what we had accomplished, I think it will sink in over the coming days and weeks.

Advice for others As for advice for others it's probably best to devide into things that were good and things that were bad or that we would do differently.

I wish I had some shoes other than our cycling shoes to wear for when we are around campsites or in a lake/river. Also I think we carried too much food which weighed us down. We wish that we left earlier so we had more time to enjoy things along the way.

Some good things were that we had the perfect amount of water, we never ran out but didn't arrive anywhere with a huge excess. I experimented with carrying huel and having it for my lunch, this worked very well, only issue was the bags are big and quite heavy and I was too lazy to make it some days. We also carried spoke cards that we could write a message on with sharpie and give out to people we met, this was brilliant as it gave the people we stayed with a memory of us.

I'm happy to answer any questions people have, I probably have lots more stories to tell if people are able to dig them out of me. Il try and work out how to add more pictures once I have posted the story. Hope it is entertaining for those who read it!

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submitted 11 months ago* (last edited 11 months ago) by Highstronaught@feddit.uk to c/bicycle_touring@lemmy.world
 
 

Both of us are students from Scotland. I fixed up 2 scrap bikes and then we made it all the way to the Polish border. Wanted to go further but ran out of time so we are finishing the trip on the train.

I wrote allllllllot more here: https://feddit.uk/post/16250811

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~50 km away another (same type) bike for comparison

And small earlier type (~1936)

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This "sauna" weather isn't the best for bikepacking, I had to take breaks pretty often. There is cherry season so you always find "reason" to stop for some "snack".

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I’ve wanted to get into bikepacking for years, but I’ve always been concerned about how I’d be able to ride for multiple days. I was on a cycling team in college and the longest ride I’ve done is about 70 miles, after which I was toast and my butt was really sore. Obviously this is different than bike touring, but it still makes me wonder how others do it.

Do you take a lot of breaks throughout the day? Or is it more just conditioning yourself and building “callouses” (for lack of a better word haha). I’m pretty sure my pelvic bones are positioned right on my saddle, but maybe I need a different one.

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3 punctures, all in different places so not the rim or anything, just bad luck.

I gained a travel companion en route to Paris. We both camped near Dieppe the first night, then we both stayed at the Cyclist Halte in Dampierre-en-bray, so we decided to travel together. It was really nice having a companion for the first half of the trip. They are 64 and have done a lot tours and taught me lots of neat tricks and how people toured before GPS, which saved me a lot of battery in the end. They were using a Brompton folding bike as they came over from Canada (see pictures)

After Paris, I got the train to Calais and cycled the Euro Velo 4 route along the coast back to Paris. I didn't know the fast trains require bike bags, I thought there were lots of options to get to Calais, but in the end it was one of two regional trains that you can just walk bikes onto, and I had just missed the early one, so got to Calais to late to ride that day. The next day was rainy, and I did my 50 mile quota plus about 30 more to make up for losing time the day before. However the next day was gale strength head winds, I tried my hardest to get to Dieppe so I could make the ferry in the morning, but I just ran out of energy 30 miles short, and had to give in. I booked a ferry for the following day instead and took the last 30 miles at a relaxing pace to recoup.

My rear brake was broken. It failed going down a few hills and I had to foot brake to stop. I could temporarily fix it, but it would stop working again after a while, and I had to keep fiddling with it before going down a big hill. Need to get it fixed at a shop before any more tours.

Arriving in Dieppe:

A view of Normandy on the Avenue Verte:

Gisors:

Camping in Dangu:

Travel companions:

Some cool wall art:

A coastal town view:

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I've been doing some rail trails on the "green roads" (routes vertes) to visit my parents for the last three weekends and I stopped at the park for overnights as I didn't want to cycle the full 140 km in one shot and then back. It's getting greener!

The Yamaska National Park is a small park located around a reservoir in southern Québec. From there it's possible to access multiple rail trails and "linear parks" going in all directions.

More pictures in the comments.

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Was cycling one of those small access roads that straddle the very large main roads. There was a wall between that and the main road. A police van and fire engine were blocking the road, and it was cordoned off with tape. I went on the pavement, very slowly, walking pace. But the municipal police stopped me and asked for my passport. I didnt know what was going on so I just gave it to them, I should have said I dont have it with me. So they fined me. I dont really know the rules in paris, I asked them but they didnt explain them to me. My travel companion did the exact same thing as me, but wasnt fined. I feel like it was entrapment a little bit. Also, it took a while, so I smoked a cigarette, knowing this policeman was an arse I knew better than to toss the butt on the floor. But I had to put the thing out on the floor rather than my own bare skin, and the bastard tried to fine me for that even as a was putting the butt in mp pannier pocket.

I have a really long and complicated address through living in a tower block in london, and the guy seemed to struggle with logging it and it seemed like he eventually gave up on his third attempt to write it, as I spelled it very fast trying to blur as much detail in my accent, he said I have your name thats enough. So hopefully I dont even receive the fine. But I think I am considering not paying it, since im not french, and that guy was an arsehole.

Has anyone been fined in france? is it the kind of thing that will make it difficult to come back here if I dont pay it?

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This guy has been livestreaming his cycle touring trips for some years now, i kinda enjoyed tuning in every now and then. With this South Korea trip i don't because his stream time doesn't align with my timetable. Maybe somebody else will dig it, i think he does it pretty good.

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What is on your wishlist this year? I have loads of camping stuff but started biketouring recently so big thing for me are bags and few stuff to complete my bike (bottlecages).

I am looking for some other things to complete my list (so other family members can give me something).

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Since i have mod powers i am just going to try this.

This topic is meant to be a low threshold possibility for all kinds of discussion. It is not meant to keep anybody from creating a new topic, the idea is that it may enable some discussion that would otherwise not happen at all.

Just a test balloon to see if this will get used. Do you think it is a good idea?

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submitted 2 years ago* (last edited 2 years ago) by AchtungDrempels@lemmy.world to c/bicycle_touring@lemmy.world
 
 

(Title picture: Riding out of the Lathissi high plateau)

Time was running out, i was thinking back and forth on where to go, checking weather reports and ways to get there up to the point where i thought i'd just spend my last holidays this year at home and just do nothing.

Now i am glad i pulled the trigger on a flight to Crete to have a good week at this beautiful place. Been way too long since i've been to Greece.

I am on my last day here, tomorrow i'll head to the airport. Organized some bubble wrap to wrap up my bike for the flight and now just hanging out in Chania, second biggest and supposedly nicest city on the island.

Some more pictures before i start with my lengthy sermon, haha.

(Riding up to the Lathissi plateau on some sweet gravel tracks.)

(Greek food. They gave me a small bottle of Raki for dessert, i guess it contained six shots but i was good after two.)

(Riding up to Spili. From Spili back down to the sea you can pass the Kotsifou gorge.)

(Camping by the sea.)

(Greek color way. Not really the cretan color way though, i mean there were places in this color way but i think that was only to give tourists some greek colorway vibes.)

(Riding out of Paleochora to head back to the northern coast.)

(Nice view into the Topolia gorge.)

Positive notes about cyle touring in Crete:

  • Climate. I had now about 27° C max temperatures everyday, perfect weather. Sun was still pretty strong, it surely would be too hot for me in full on summer though. Great plant life, still many flowers at this time of the year, fig cactus was ripe and the pomgrenade. Olive harvest was on too, the smell of the south.
  • Greek people. Super chill and super friendly
  • Greek drivers. Top notch, i have not had a single close pass. I was surprised, was expecting it to be more like Italy or Croatia. I might be proven wrong on the last 15 km tomorrow with tourists rushing to the airport together with me. Generally traffic was very, very low except for a few exceptions (last bit up to lathissi, and along northern coast)
  • Infrastructure. Tavernes everywhere, small supermarkets too. Lots of rooms available, would certainly be a good place to credit card it. On the flipside it is probably overly touristic in some places, but i expected that and was more surprised how fast you'd be out of the buzz and in rural places and villages with no tourism to speak of. I am here at the very end of the season, the day after tomorrow i think half the island will shut down, so i guess it was perfect timing to be here with less tourists around (and less people driving around in rental cars i suppose)
  • Animals. Cats are everywhere where human settlements are. Love it. Vultures in the mountains, i saw them every day, except for the flatter hills along the north coast. Saw a big flock too, 40 - 50 birds on the way to the lathissi plateau. Goats are absolutely everywhere on the mountains and i like it. They're always scared when you pass and I sometimes worry that on a downhill a goat lying on the road might have a brain fart and jump into me, but they all had the escaping to safety dialed down. Dogs. I heard bad things about dogs in Greece, but every barky, scary dog i came across was either chained or trapped in a yard. All free roaming dogs were super chill, just lying around in front of the butchers or some garbage cans, not even caring about cats.
  • Iced coffee. The greek love iced coffee and so do i. Since i have last been here, which is decades ago, they completely switched it around though, it used to be 'frappe' everywhere, which is made from instant coffee, but now they're all about the 'freddo espresso'. While they still serve frappe, they were kinda looking weird at me when i ordered it, i think it's way out of fashion. Took me a while to get the 'freddo espresso' memo.
  • Greek food is pretty damn good too. Cretan nut bars with honey were also good snacks.
  • Camping is great, although official campsites are not everywhere.

Can't really think of negatives. I guess if you don't like climbing this is not the place for you. Some roads had a lot of trash lying around. Some places are overly touristic, but kinda easy to avoid or leave fast. Traffic in the big cities is annoying, the greek all go by car or on mopeds. Still the drivers are great. I certainly will be back cycling in Greece soon, absolutely enjoyed it.

This was my route. Unluckily i've had a cold since i arrived here, so i didn't get to ride what i thought i would. Guess i'll be all good when i'm back in the office on thursday. I think it was down to not sleeping at all the night before i arrived, and only halfway the night before that, because leaving home didn't go as easy as expected. Woke up at 4:00 to get to the airport, then realised i had forgotten to loosen my pedals beforehand. Tried too hard with my multitool to remove them and it broke. Now i couldn't even remove the handlebar anymore. Tried for a brief bit to organize some tools at the airport with no luck and then just rescheduled the flight for the next day at 4:30 in the night from a neighbouring city. So i didn't sleep all night and arrived in the capital Iraklio kinda dizzy.

I am quite happy with my new setup, even though the old one had it's own advantages. It is now somewhat lighter, and the weight is more evenly distributed, so lifting it over barriers and pushing uphill felt better. Rides pleasantly but tbh i didn't mind the riding part with the old rear heavier setup either. Pretty sure i will do my next tour with this new setup again though.

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I was cyling from Freiburg, Germany through the Jura, Vercors, Drôme, Verdon to Nice, France.

Title picture is in the Drôme area, which i absolutely loved.

Most of Jura i cycled on the swiss side, weather was not great but it was still nice, basically following the cycle route 7 until i reached the grand tour de jura section on the french side after the lac du joux. I kinda liked the french part better, seemed wilder. Photo is in Switzerland on the col de l'aiguillon, from there was a fantastic downhill to the village Baumes.

Approaching the Vercors it was all full of walnut trees and i rode to Pont-en-Royans with the plan to ride up the Goulet:

(Pont-en-Royans)

On the way to Goulet i learned that it was not passable because there was a tunnel construction and i returned to Pont-en-Royans to ride up the Gorge de la Bournes instead. I had read up a bit about those crazy vercors roads beforehand, mostly on this site, which i guess is aimed at motor cyclists. Amazingly the road up the gorge was calm, not much traffic at all, i guess the season was over already in September in the Vercors.

Later that evening was a heavy rain storm, next day was still raining hard, tried to wait it out to climb up the col de Rousset, which would lead me out of the Vercors, but it was hopeless and so i rode up to the col in the clouds and pouring rain.

(Col de rousset before the tunnel)

At the col there's a tunnel and on the other side of it, the clouds were less dense and you could get a glimpse of a view. A gang of middle aged moped drivers from Grenoble were on the other side, we chatted for a bit and a french guy on the first day of his first bikepacking trip showed up as well. We chatted and made an appointment to meet for a coffee and talk some more in the town 'Die' which was at the end of the descend, then we descended. Weather cleared up and it had these amazing heat swells on the way down. After the downhill you can very much feel and smell the south already. Ithought Die is a nice town with a hippy vibe.

Next day i went into the Drôme area or Dioise (i am confused myself) and it was amazing, weather started to be great and it felt southern. I cycled along the Roanne valley:

(There is a "tunnel" hidden in this picture)

Next day continued going south, to go on a campsite in Buis-les-Barronies, which was still less then six Euros in 2021. The municipal campsite, right by the town, there's also a privately run one which i assume must be more expensive.

(Buis-lesBarronies in the valley, Mont Ventoux in the background)

Buis-les-Barronies is kind of a tourist hub in that area, but still a beautiful town, has an outdoors sports store where i could get some gas for my stove. Big Pizzas in town.

I then wanted to cycle to the gorge de meouge, but on the way there i saw a sign by the road announcing another scenic route along a different gorge, so i took that too and had a nice lunch snack / swim at the Gorge d'Aulan:

Then on via gorge de meouge (great swim too), sisteron towards the Gorge du Verdon. It is a very popular tourist site, but traffic was fine, all people in cars are also there to look out of the window and drive real slow. The village Moustieres-Sainte-Marie is also a tourist hotspot, but it is also an amazing village, would recommend a stop.

After having a swim, a view down to the Lac de Sainte Croix on the way to the Gorge route, from the town Aiguines, you can also see the Plateau Valensole on the other side of the lake, which is probably pictured on the cover of you Provence travel guide with its lavender fields.

(Gorge du Verdon)

I was riding the southern side of the gorge even though everybody told me the northern one with the loop would be better, but it was longer and i was getting to the end of my trip and didn't want to put myself under time pressure, so kept going south which was also very nice. Tons of Herbes de Provence, mostly thyme on that mountain.

I was figuring out a lot of my routes with a michelin map and their marked scenic routes. I was riding along a mountain plateau and wondered why it had beeen marked scenic, then i saw a sign "clues de greolieres" the plateau opened up with a fantastic view into the valley and it, an amazing experience riding down this to greolieres (beautiful village).

Then i basically just rode to Nice via Coursegoule and col de vence. Gotta send this post now before it is wednesday :)

edit: damn, 10 seconds late, haha.

another edit: Sorry i am a bit drunk and wrote this on the train back home, hope you can still enjoy the photos. Absolutely love cycling in France and i want to cycle all of these areas again, just a bit different routes, especially i think the Dioise / Drôme, i thought that was just gorgeus there, not too overrun by tourists, super calm small roads, perfect cycling.

Route if anybody's interested.

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Got to take my ladyfriend on an overnight trip at the weekend. It just so happened that the campsite we had booked sat a little before the halfway point on an overnight bike packing trail that I had bookmarked for a later date - links below for anyone that might be interested. We got a late start saturday, so we arrived in the dark with just enough time to get to pitch and do a shop run before a bbq and drinks next to a campfire. We didnt rush the next day, left a little before noon and made the most of the sites en route. Some bird watching and a pub lunch put us a bit behind schedule with the shorter days so we had to cut out the main loop in Epping Forest by Loughton, but we will go back for a day trip to finish that part of the ride. A really enjoyable route for anyone looking for a 2 day excursion from london, largely off road so better suited for a gravel bike but some hybrid tyres should get you round if you dont mind a slower ride.

Lee Valley Almost Wild Campsite, Broxburne

London Olympic Gravel Overnighter

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