SimplyGreg

joined 10 months ago
[–] SimplyGreg@lemmy.world 1 points 1 day ago

I don't think that is the cause, or I'm misunderstanding something. Whatever is happening on the top of the nib, doesn't really impact ink flow. Engraving across the slit is very common, and although it will fill up with ink over time, it shouldn't have a noticeable impact on ink flow when writing. Also, we may have different nibs, mine is from the early 10's, I know they have had different designs over the years.

And for Parker, it's not even the worst offender in that respect, the Sonnet is so much worse. On the one hand, it's annoying to never be able to keep it clean, but on the other, you know right away what color you have it inked with. But this one is not impacted by the engraving at all.

Skipping is usually due to the tines being too closed, but it's not the end of the world, you can tune that. All my Parker were on the dry side, the Duofold was so bad I had to send it back too (and they never fixed it properly, so I had to take matters in my own hands).

What you're describing (i.e. hard start too) could also be "baby's bottom", when the tipping material has the shape of a w. Or even a half splayed nib too (when the top, or in the case, bottom of the nib is splayed, but not the other side). If you otherwise like the pen, it could be worth your time to investigate and try to fix it.

[–] SimplyGreg@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago (2 children)

While you will never catch me saying Parker makes great pens, I do not experience that at all, I have regular, predictable ink flow. What kills me about this one is that it has the same nib as the Waterman Philéas (just in gold rather than steel, but they are interchangeable), but the Philéas is so much better; it's lighter, better balanced and silky smooth.

Is it an issue you have investigated? Did you try multiple inks, across multiple brands? Is it with a specific color?

 

This is less of a check out my collection and more of a is there anything you would like to know more about, a state of the collection of pens I have accumulated over the more than three decades I have been using fountain pens. I don't have anything particularly special, so most of them are known, but there are a few interesting, less known ones.

I started using them not out of my own volition, but because it was mandatory in first grade. Then, when it wasn't anymore, I still stuck with them, because other pens didn't feel quite as nice, not as smooth, required much more pressure to write, and certainly didn't have the array of colors available to fountain pens. So while I didn't originally choose to use fountain pens, I absolutely chose to stick with them. I do occasionally use ballpoints (BIC cristal and M10) and various gel pens, when I have to, but this is very much occasional.

This is not all the pens I have ever had, I have broken, lost, sold and given away quite a few tens of them, this is only what I have today, minus a Wing Sung 601A which is in my lab right now, but I am not going to go get it because of the heat.. and it is not worth talking about too (not a particularly good pen).

I'll present the pens as:

[Brand] [Model name] [Nib size/style/cut] - [name of the colorway],

as expressed by the manufacturer or in the sales pages, in English (usually machine translated for Chinese brands), as available.

Top row, left to right:

  • Pimio / Picasso 933 Avignon M - unknown
  • Pimio / Picasso 902 Gentleman series M - Agathe red
  • Pimio / Picasso 902 Gentleman series M - Black gold cap
  • Pimio / Picasso 906 Athens Dynasty M - Blakc and gold
  • Pimio / Picasso 916 Malaga EF - Red
  • Pimio / Picasso 916 Malaga F - Muri gray
  • Pimio / Picasso 916 Malaga SEF - Dawn red
  • HongDian C1 Explorer F - Red
  • HongDian 517D EF - Matte black and silver
  • Jinhao 35 EF - Black
  • Jinhao 911 EF - Black and gold
  • Jinhao 20 EF - "C" (no further naming found for this color)
  • Pilot kaküno EF - Gray
  • Pilot Custom 74 F (14k) - unkown

Bottom row:

  • Jinhao 100 Naginata & F nibs - Snowflake
  • Jinhao 100 M - Black
  • Jinhao 100 EF - Tofu
  • Jinhao 95 F - Black and gold
  • Jinhao 95 M - Red
  • Jinhao 85 EF/0,38mm (hooded nib) - DYI colorway (barrel painted with the same paint as my motorcycle)
  • Jinhao 85 F (open nib) - Black
  • Jinhao 85 EF (hooded) - Blue
  • Jinhao 85 EF (hooded) - Blue (same colorway, different batches, lighter is older by several years, difference not due to shifting color)
  • Jinhao 75 F/0,5mm - Black red
  • Jinhao 88 F - Red
  • Jinhao 88 EF - Blue
  • Hero 849 EF - Green (it's actually teal and rose gold)
  • Pilot explorer M - Red

Top row:

  • Platinum #3776 Music nib (14k) - Black (the feed has turned into dust, and no replacement parts are available as Platinum refuses to sell parts for repairs, and I am not paying for the shipping to Japan for a pen that costed my 11800¥)
  • Parker Sonnet F (18k) and Cursive (18k) - Chiseled silver (or sterling silver I don't remember)
  • Parker IM F (18k) - Black and gold trim
  • Parker Duofold International F (18k) - Green tortoise shell and Rhodium (IIRC) trim
  • Pilot 78G+ M - Green
  • Pilot 78G+ F - Black
  • Pilot kaküno F - Soft blue
  • Hero 1079 Ultrafine/0,38mm - Black
  • Hero 1079 Ultrafine/0,38mm - Yellow
  • Hero P108 0,38mm (hooded) - Matte black
  • Hero 616 F - Burgundy
  • Hero 616 F - Yellow (yeah, I know)

Bottom row

  • Unknown pen with generic nib and feed - (actual) Sandal wood
  • Unknown pen with generic nib and feed - (actual) Rosewood
  • Kaco Mellow EF - Red
  • Kaco Retro EF/0,38mm (hooded) - Black
  • No idea what this one is, same generic nib and feed as the wood pens
  • "Vintage Hero pen" no further details (hooded nib)
  • "Vintage Hero pen" no further details (hooded nib)
  • Stonego unknown model with "KURM" branding on nib
  • Stonego unkown model with "HUASHILAI" branded nib
  • Unknown brand and model with generic "Iridium point" nib
  • Lambitou 2053 Artistic pen - unknown
  • Hero 616 F/0,5mm - Red

Left to right:

  • Waterman Allure F - Chrome
  • Waterman Kultur F - unknown
  • Waterman Philéas M - Black and gold trim (smoothest steel nib I have ever used)
  • Waterman Hémisphère M - unknown
  • Waterman Charleston M (18k) and OF (18k) - Ivory

Left to right:

  • Waterman Exception "slim" M - Black and gold trim
  • Waterman Expert II F - Black and gold trim
  • Waterman Apostrophe M - Black and gold trim
  • Waterman Apostrophe M - Black and gold trim
  • Waterman Apostrophe M - Black and gold trim

Feel free to ask whatever questions come to mind. Do note that I don't necessarily know everything about some of them, I can't even remember how I got some of them.

[–] SimplyGreg@lemmy.world 1 points 1 week ago (1 children)

If the Jinhao 85 does look appealing to you in any way, and you can find it at a reasonable price where you live (I paid all of mine between 3 and 5€), please don't let the filling system hold you back, they are very good pens on their own, not just as a Parker 51 clone. And they manage to be a lot smoother with their steel nibs than the modern 51 with gold nibs, which I find disgraceful from Parker. Then again, their modern production is dismal.

I would consider the x750 middle of the road for Jinhao, not up to the quality of the more recent models (this one has been around for over a decade), but not awful. But their newer stuff is a LOT better. The exception is the 100, which I find to be a little lower quality than its contemporaries.

Hong Dian and Wing Sung, I have limited experience, 3 pens total, but too far from what I read online that I don't care to try any further. Not bad, but not good enough.

A lot of Chinese companies still stick to the old ways of no QC and replace when the customer is unhappy. This isn't specific to the pen world. Though for a lot of Chinese pen companies, there is also the fact that their newer designs are also intrinsically better, higher quality overall, but not necessarily with changes in QC, just better design and manufacturing. The only Chinese pen company I know to have very tight QC across the board is Pimio. Hero also has some good QC on some of their stuff, but they also have lousy QC on other pens.

Also, when buying Chinese pens, or anything Chinese really, I would very strongly advise to check AliExpress first, because they'll very likely be a LOT cheaper than Amazon. But even if they're closer in price, you'll often get a lot more choice in colorways, nib sizes, finishes, etc.

[–] SimplyGreg@lemmy.world 0 points 1 week ago (3 children)

I bought a Jinhao 85 when it was very recent (early corona days if I am not mistaken), and it was so good that I now I four of them in different colors, including one that I sanded down to paint myself to match my motorcycle (using the same paint). I love this pen and very much recommend it, it's very smooth, if a little (top) heavy for my taste, though nothing egregious. My oldest one (metallic blue with gold cap) has seen a lot of use, and for a while, became my main pen. I have never had an issue with it. The one thing that bothers me about it is that with the hooded nibs, the feed is glued in the section, so that limits the ink choices due to the inability to take it apart to clean it properly.

I am surprised that you were disappointed in Jinhao pens, at least recent ones, because I have 14 or 15 of them now, and not one of them has been a disappointment, though I know some of their older stuff is a little... dodgy to say the least. In contrast, Wing Sung and Hong Dian pens have never quite matched my expectations from reading online reviews.

There is also the Jinhao 911, lighter and slimmer, but same very smooth nibs. It feels a lot like writing with a pencil in terms of paper touch and feedback. I would also very much recommend this one, given the 2€ or so price point. Crazy good for the price, but does require extra care again, due to the hooded nib.

Do note that they both rely on (included) cartridge converters.

[–] SimplyGreg@lemmy.world 2 points 1 week ago (3 children)

"Someone capitalized the first letter of every word in a sentence".

[–] SimplyGreg@lemmy.world 2 points 1 week ago

It is, to an extent, a normal and expected behavior for sheen inks: they tend to be more saturated (sometimes, a LOT more), so they'll usually have a much harder time flowing and they will crust up your nib; the more sheen, the more those happen. And sometimes it's so bad the manufacturer will load them up with ammonia to make it flow at all. That means feathering is a lot more likely to happen too.

The smear is also a product of the saturation, there is such a high concentration that the dye can't all be absorbed by the paper, and a lot of it will sit on top of the page, and from my own experience with other saturated inks, 20 years will not "dry" it (it is technically dry), and will even be able to imprint itself on another piece of paper with a bit of pressure. Blotter paper will absolutely help a lot, and it costs next to nothing, and you should definitely get yourself some.

My recommendation for a much better ink for similar looks (maybe a bit less sheen though) is Ostrich's sheen series Sea of Okinawa. I have used it a few pens, (Jinhao 88, Waterman Allure, Pilot Custom 74 and Waterman Exception), with no issues, including as a daily. It's the best behaved sheen I have tried so far: no real feathering issues (nothing worse than a typical fountain pen ink, though somehow less than a typical blue), flows well enough even if it's on the drier side, doesn't crust up on your nib, and hasn't stained anything so far in three or four years. It's perfectly usable without having to tune the nib, unless your pen is already pretty dry to begin with. Although as with most sheen inks, you will need the right paper to show its full potential, and it's also a bit of a nib creeper, but if your nib is highly polished, it doesn't happen. Usual prices for an 18mL bottle is around 3-4€ here, and they also have them in 30mL, but at 6-7€, it isn't worth it (the cost of a glass vs plastic bottle).

They also have a more saturated one called Aegean sea, but I have not tried it. And I am not eager to change that after my experience with their Glen of the sea, which is incredibly saturated (looks like the holographic safety ink on various currencies) and sheens on anything including toilet paper (that is only a slight exaggeration), but behaves very poorly: it crusts very quickly and even under the nib, has super dry flow, it imprints on facing pages, it looks like black ink but smears a pinkish purple. I tried to dilute it to 60% with DI water, I tried dish soap, nothing makes it flow well. Despite all that, I still like this ink though, just because of that crazy sheen... well and the intriguing fact that I can't get the purple component to show up on purpose, it's always been accidental. Either way, the Sea of Okinawa behaves so well that I never felt it was warranted to even bother looking for anything else in that shade.

There are also non sheen inks that can sheen on the right paper, like Waterman's Bleu sérénité or J. Herbin's Bleu des profondeurs, but both of these require a rather wet nib and good paper. If you like their base colors, they can be worth a try, though don't expect a crazy sheen, they are very subtle in that respect.

[–] SimplyGreg@lemmy.world 1 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

For me it started because it was mandatory in first grade, so starting to use them was not my choice. Then I stuck with it because the ink choices were boundless, which wasn't (ans still isn't) feasible with other pens (even if I do re-ink Uniball Deluxe pens with fountain pen inks), that's what kept me using them when I was a kid, and is also something I thoroughly enjoy still to this day.

Then there is the fact that nibs are much smoother, so less fatigue and more enjoyment in using them. Nibs also offer variety in size and shape that can't be matched. Using them, I can write a lot faster, more legibly and for longer.

There is also the less technically relevant aspect of aesthetics. If we overlook the kaküno, preppy and the likes, there is no arguing that they are more satisfying to look at and hold in hand.

I have used them my whole writing life, and even if do occasionally use the odd BIC cristal, or some gel pens, fountain pens are, have been and always will be my main writing instruments. I have around 25-30 inks and 70+ pens, I use around a half liter of black ink per year (I have plenty of other colors, but they see less consistent use, so it's much harder to track), so I can see I use them a LOT, and using disposable pens feels extremely wasteful.

On the rare occasion that I have to use a gel pen for the day, a full refill for a Uniball S207 or comparable pen barely lasts the day, and it can happen that one does not even last the whole day. I do write and sketch a lot for work sometimes, and while these are uncommon examples, they are significant enough that they are a factor in not relying on gel pens... except when I don't have a choice (and I usually pack two spare refills).

Outside of fountain pens, no pen can write the same as a J. Herbin Emeraude de Chivor, that shading and shimmering is just not achievable otherwise. And yes, this is my favorite ink, even if there are plenty I do love. But the breadth of colors and effects achievable for daily writing is just completely out of reach of any other form of pen.

Granted, all that has a cost, not just upfront; but also in terms of finding paper that works with the inks one desires to use. Though, where I live, high quality paper is very affordable (3,50€ for a Rhodia 80 sheets in 90g/m² velum for instance), so I am lucky enough not to have to worry about that aspect.

Edit: typo

[–] SimplyGreg@lemmy.world 2 points 4 weeks ago (1 children)

I would check the user manual of the derailleur for the cable routing out the derailleur. I don't remember which RD it was, but I installed one on a friend's (gravel) bike, and my dumbass thinking I knew better didn't read the manual and installed as usual, but that specific RD wanted an "odd" route for its cable. I didn't know that because I didn't read, so the friend had bad shifting in the middle of the cassette until I read how I was supposed to do it.

I wouldn't be surprised if a pro missed it because it was a really unusually tight route, and actually doing it solved the unpleasant shifting, even if it's a little unsettling to look at.