surfing

First time I got covered up! the waves were chest high, pretty steep and closing a bit.

Got a late takeoff, had to push hard on the tail to prevent a node dive, immediately grabbed the rail so I could stay on the face, tried to ride down the line as much a possible, saw the whole thing about too close and got out towards the beach. And well ...just got covered up in the process.

Me happy.

Was riding my 7'6 x 23" mid length which was too big. But I don't care, I got covered up!