I second Sourcehut. I liked it so much, I started paying for it a couple of years ago.

The CI works really well, and the parts are slowly (but continuously) becoming more integrated and cohesive.

The features I like best may, however, be anti-features to others. The web interfaces are spartan (and correspondingly lightweight). Many interactions require more esoteric workflows - such as the aforementioned "PRs via email." You could self-host the entire suite, if you wanted, and there's almost no possibility for vendor lock-in... I guess there's no real downside to that one. And Drew is a Character, which is fun if you agree with him on many things, which I do, but could be annoying if you don't.

I am a happy subscriber, FWIW.