this post was submitted on 13 Oct 2026
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Previous owner said they always had huge icicles off the back of the house. This would be why.

.75 inches of fiberglass, where there should be at LEAST 8 inches, and code for our area more like 15 inches.

Combine that with the uninsulated, unblocked floor cavities in the upstairs floor joists, that lead directly to the uninsulated attic space...

And combine THAT with the 4(!!!) access points to the attic that were not only completely uninsulated, but also had no weather sealing, and β…›-ΒΌ inch gaps around all edges.

This house was literally leaking warm air like a sieve, all winter long.

I'm only putting in 8 inches of fiberglass batting. And sealing every crack and joint I can find, as well as the gaping holes πŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ

It'll still be under code, but, insulating it properly with spray foam would cost literally SIXTEEN TIMES MORE than just using the batting. And considering that our long term goal is to condition the attic space by insulating the roof deck, obsoleting the insulation I'm putting in now, I'm not eager to overspend.

I'll settle for only blocking 95% of heat flow, instead of 99.

Edit, update: I took a few days off, the temp outside went up, and it was sunny, so the attic got real hot real fast. No thanks, I'm not in that kind of rush.

But I got all of one side done yesterday, still need to put the boards back down, and insulate the gappy door, but it's sealed.

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[–] A_Union_of_Kobolds@lemmy.world 53 points 1 week ago (2 children)

Am electrician, if youre considering adding any lights or power to that floor you should do so NOW vs after you insulate.

Or Ethernet, for example AP drops or cameras in the soffits.

[–] hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works 17 points 1 week ago

Already in the works, adding a ceiling fan to the living room, and a couple extra lights in places.

[–] Humana@lemmy.world 29 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (6 children)

Had almost this identical insulation situation when I bought my house. The ceiling just had some thin rock wool. First I went to Lowes and got a few cans of fire-rated spray foam and used it to seal around all ceiling fixtures, canister lights, wire penetrations, anything air can leak from. Next I built a little dam with scrap wood around the access hatch. Then spent one Saturday with a friend blowing insulation in. 8 hours of blower rental was free for every 3 bags of insulation you bought, but it didn't take nearly that much time. Had it up to R-48 depth in only about 4 hours of blowing. I submit the receipts to my state's energy rebate program and was 100% reimbursed. I think the blow-in did a much better job and was easier to get into odd shaped framing than bat would have been.

My winter gas bill halved, much better than I hoped. I also wasn't expecting for my summer AC to bill drop by almost 75%. My house was MUCH more comfortable too. Almost all the draftiness disappeared after that.

I paid $0 after rebates, spent probably 12 hours labor total, and save easily $100-$200 a month.

[–] hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works 10 points 1 week ago

That's amazing!

I did look into my states rebate programs, and they only allow them if you pay a contractor to do the work, and even then, they have to be an approved contractor, and they get the rebate, not you, so hopefully you trust them πŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ

Someone else mentioned blow in insulation, and I did consider it, but it's a bit messy and fussy for what I want to do with the space in the future. So batting it is πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ

submit the receipts to my state’s energy rebate program and was 100% reimbursed

So many people don't know to look for these reimbursements, many countries have them

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[–] mushroommunk@lemmy.today 25 points 1 week ago (1 children)

"it compacts, it was 8inches when we installed it" <- words I've heard way too much

[–] Lemmyoutofhere@lemmy.ca 18 points 1 week ago (1 children)
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[–] davidagain@lemmy.world 24 points 1 week ago (4 children)

As a Brit, I find it wild to see a measuring device with imperial but no metric on it. Like, do Americans seriously not need to interface with any measurements beyond the 18th century?

Upvoted, obviously, for getting your insulation functional.

You know your measurement system is fucked up when the British are calling you out on it! πŸ˜…

[–] Crashumbc@lemmy.world 15 points 1 week ago (5 children)

Says a country that drives on left. (Against rest of world), stills uses pounds (currency), and uses"stones"

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[–] rbos@lemmy.ca 10 points 1 week ago (3 children)

Canadian, same. Dual measures are pretty universal. It's honestly nearly impossible to find a stupid metric only tape. Super weird to see imperial only. Could be an old tool?

[–] hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works 7 points 1 week ago (1 children)

It's crazy I know.

If I'm doing 3d design by myself? It's metric all the way. Imperial fractions are the dumbest form of measurement, just beating out biblical "hand breadths" and cubits.

But alas, I grew up imperial measurements. So in my brain, for big measurements, feet and inches are easier for me to Intuit, so that's what I use. And fractions get you close enough in most cases without having to go smaller than an 8th or maybe a 16th, so that's what I use. Doubly so if you're working with someone else.

I have had many tape measures in my time, most of them have had metric on the other side. I've literally never used it, because when I'm doing metric it's small stuff and I'm using calipers. Frankly the metric on a tape measure just gets in the way, since that's just not how I use it.

I sought out this tape measure because it was cheap, and it has the fractions written on it. Most tapes don't, you just have to remember the length of the lines and the meanings of the general positions. I hate it, because I don't do construction often enough to remember πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ

I got it at Menards, it's proforce or something like that. Lime green.

All in all, I wish we were metric. But we are not. And it makes my life more difficult to try learning and then forcing others to use it. So imperial it is πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ

[–] rbos@lemmy.ca 5 points 1 week ago

You can only travel from where you are, not from where you wish you could be.

Sounds like it fits your needs well!

I wish I could find a metric-only tape measure tho.

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[–] huquad@lemmy.ml 20 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (1 children)

Air is a great insulator in the absence of gravity. Have you considered relocating the house?

[–] KairuByte@lemmy.dbzer0.com 10 points 1 week ago (2 children)

Yes, to an area with more air if at all possible.

[–] fyzzlefry@retrolemmy.com 8 points 1 week ago

More air, per air

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[–] greedytacothief@lemmy.dbzer0.com 18 points 1 week ago (3 children)

You should count yourself lucky you've got insulation up there. So many old houses around here have it all stolen by mice.

[–] Etterra@discuss.online 5 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Peanut butter is the best bait for mouse traps I've ever used.

[–] Whats_your_reasoning@lemmy.world 6 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Mice haven’t responded to any traps I’ve set, regardless of bait.

Leaving a plastic bag on the floor, however, seems to attract them every time. I caught one when it went into a Costco-sized bag of paper towels. No food in it, no trash in it, just individually-wrapped paper towel rolls. I guess mice are so used to plastic bags being full of food, they gotta explore them whenever they find them.

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[–] Wizard_Pope@lemmy.world 13 points 1 week ago (1 children)

What kinda wack fuck inaulation is that? Our garden shed is better insulated than that.

[–] hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works 11 points 1 week ago (1 children)

It's super old, and I doubt it was 8 inches when installed, probably 3 or 4. Crazy. Old houses πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ

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[–] HubertManne@piefed.social 13 points 1 week ago (1 children)

ugh im in a condo and can't convince people on the need for much more attic insulation. its so cheap and we can recover the cost so quickly. face palm.

True story! Especially batting or blown in.

I'm only at like $500 for materials so far. Although spray foam would be like $8000 πŸ‘€

[–] StabbingSky@lemmy.zip 10 points 1 week ago (5 children)

I have the reverse situation. There's only like 3ft of clearance and 2.5ft of blown in fiberglass insulation.

Doing anything in the attic is a fucking nightmare.

[–] MeatPilot@sh.itjust.works 7 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (1 children)

The times I've gone up into my attic to do anything and have to crawl on my belly in blown in fiberglass are too many. I feel you.

[–] Corkyskog@sh.itjust.works 10 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (4 children)

I don't even know how to get in mine. The opening is at the top of a tiny closet, and the hole is built for someone the size of like a 4 year old Ethiopian child. I could fit my toddler up there... But I am not really sure what that would actually accomplish.

[–] Mycatiskai@lemmy.ca 7 points 1 week ago (1 children)

This is my issue as well. I don't know any professional small people that can do roof repairs.

Once it gets cold enough one of the roof whirlygigs freezes until spring so I had to seal the attic hole up so the insulation pellets (asbestos free) don't get blown down everytime a outside door opens.

[–] Corkyskog@sh.itjust.works 6 points 1 week ago (1 children)
[–] KairuByte@lemmy.dbzer0.com 8 points 1 week ago (3 children)

They likely mean a spinning turbine vent.

[–] Mycatiskai@lemmy.ca 7 points 1 week ago

Exactly, a whirlygig.

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[–] 0x0@infosec.pub 5 points 1 week ago

Just leave them up there and let them figure it out, not your problem

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[–] SaveTheTuaHawk@lemmy.ca 9 points 1 week ago (2 children)

To be fair, that was code in 1962.

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[–] starman2112@sh.itjust.works 7 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Ain't no "re" involved here

Right?!

RE in the sense that ΒΎ inch of insulation is technically still insulation πŸ™„

[–] Cort@lemmy.world 6 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Have you considered blown insulation since it's in the attic? Should be cheaper than foam and higher r value than bats

[–] hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works 7 points 1 week ago (1 children)

From what I've read, the difference is pretty minimal.

Plus I'd need the blower, and all the hassle. Probably want to do it in one day, whereas with the batts I'm able to do it a little bit every day after work.

The key is that there are boards on top of the joists, for storage and stuff. I'd like to keep them, even though it reduces my max potential r value. Again, this is a short term solution, a year or two at most.

[–] Cort@lemmy.world 5 points 1 week ago

All very good reasons to do bats. Sounds like you've thorough considered it

[–] rockSlayer@lemmy.blahaj.zone 6 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Those batts also look super compressed. I bet the house gets cold as hell too

Yeah the upstairs especially is uh, following the weather outside pretty closely

[–] Malica@lemmy.zip 6 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Looks like you'll have a much better winter this time around.

[–] hereiamagain@sh.itjust.works 4 points 1 week ago (3 children)

This will be my first winter in this house, so unfortunately(fortunately?) I won't have any first hand comparison to how bad it was before.

But yes, I think it'll be much improved. I'll know it's better if I don't have monster sized icicles.

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[–] Lemmyoutofhere@lemmy.ca 6 points 1 week ago

β€œLooks like 8” to me” TWHS

[–] Asafum@lemmy.world 5 points 1 week ago (4 children)

Wait, are you in my attic right now? I'm renting a garage "apartment" and that basically describes the attic space... $300/month in heating... God knows what I'm in for this winter...

[–] HubertManne@piefed.social 5 points 1 week ago

I left a place like that for one that included heat in the rent.

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[–] Boozilla@sh.itjust.works 5 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Don't forget air circulation is important, too. Leaks are bad. 100% airtight is bad, too. Do a bit of research if you haven't already.

Yep, thanks!

Airtight so air doesn't flow from the conditioned space to the unconditioned. And insulated. But the insulation isn't trapped, it can breath. Plus ridge vents, and in my case, gable vents.

The only thing I'm sealing in a questionable way, is the joists between floors, because they are open to winter air.

But technically that should be fine? The temp should be the same on both sides, nowhere for moisture to condense.. hmm.. I'll dig deeper on that.

[–] grue@lemmy.world 4 points 1 week ago

Oh shit, that reminds me to do the same!

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