JelleWho

joined 2 years ago
[–] JelleWho@lemmy.world 1 points 3 days ago

Yhea true, but its such a drag waiting for 8h for a print. And then all your icons are just not coloured. Just need to change the gcode and then try again

[–] JelleWho@lemmy.world 12 points 3 days ago (2 children)
[–] JelleWho@lemmy.world 1 points 3 days ago (2 children)

Trying to print dual colour on a single colour printer, but then forgetting the pause layer to manually swap the colour. Ending up with single colour print,

[–] JelleWho@lemmy.world 1 points 3 days ago

I need this for my work, they want everything thing done by yesterday.

[–] JelleWho@lemmy.world 5 points 3 days ago

I think it needs a bit of airflow. Unless your trying to make plasma

 

An nozzle of my Snapmaker U1 failed with printing and the clog ended up breaking the frail temperature sensor.

The spare about are expected to arrive within about a month (stock runners out, and I didn't had spare parts of these because they have never broken on my old printer).

I moved the nozzle heater and sensor from head 2 (E1) to head 1,since the left head is like a master and you can't do without apparently. I set the min_temp of [extruder1] in the printer.cfg file super low. And now it can boot up again.

The printer runs just fine on the other nozzles now, just can not do a nozzle offset calibration and such since that requires heating the nozzles. Meaning nozzle 1 has a wrong offset (but can be used on its own), nozzle 2 is completely out, and nozzle 3 and 4 can be used for multi material printing.

It's current printing! So no time to waste. Let us engineer and print more, and enjoy the hobby

[–] JelleWho@lemmy.world 6 points 4 days ago

Can here to say the speed is too high indeed.

The extruder can not keep up at the high speeds. It has acceleration on. And in the beginning it's slow enough, but at the middle/end it's under extruding. It goes sigzag so that's why the patter looks like this.

Reduce speed, or get an higher flow nozzle/gantry/extruder

[–] JelleWho@lemmy.world 6 points 5 days ago* (last edited 5 days ago) (2 children)

Did you manged to get 15V3A working yet? I only seem to be able to go to ~26W charging max so far (but adapter is from Valve and can do 15V3A)Charging curve

[–] JelleWho@lemmy.world 2 points 5 days ago (1 children)

Yhea we know we'll what the limits of the Vive trackers are xD, I needed to reprogram some smart home stuff to be able to go thought the blackout of us going in VR, having 10 trackers was already enough for more than half of packages being lost, and going to 20 there is just no wifi anymore.

Starting to learn the ins and our of the Frame. I will try and play around a bit more with the 5Ghz and 6Ghz on the AP, I could get our second AP online too and try just using one AP for each heatset. But that would mean moving it around. We will see how testing goes.

[–] JelleWho@lemmy.world 4 points 5 days ago (3 children)

Would you be able to share more info about the WiFi settings?

We are using the U7-pro-max, the SSID WiFuis set to 5Ghz and 6Ghz. Power to max, and bandwidth to 160. WPA3 only. Seems to play fine, but there is an 10ms added delay with the wired AP compared to dongle.

We had huge problems setting up two frames in one room. Some feedback for others to check:

  1. The dongle needs usb 3.0(+) for bandwidth. Usb 2 seem to give some weird stutters.
  2. Dongle location is important, just like the Vive trackers. Try and use a (proper) extension cable to get a bit away from your case and closet to line of sight.
  3. Current steamVr works BS on windows and Linux when it's not the beta. I recommend the beta version currently, also for 'Space Calibrator'

For us it seems multilink streaming with 2 frames and 6 vive trackers is no working 'good enough'. When one boots the other has a small stutter, but that's it. Looking at wifi bands I don't think you can have more than 3 frames in one room, but I don't have the experience for that atm.

[–] JelleWho@lemmy.world 2 points 5 days ago

Ow yhea my bad! Sorry, somehow this ended on the wrong post

[–] JelleWho@lemmy.world 1 points 5 days ago (2 children)

Would you be able to share more info about the WiFi settings?

We are using the U7-pro-max, the SSID WiFuis set to 5Ghz and 6Ghz. Power to max, and bandwidth to 160. WPA3 only. Seems to play fine, but there is an 10ms added delay with the wired AP compared to dongle.

We had huge problems setting up two frames in one room. Some feedback for others to check:

  1. The dongle needs usb 3.0(+) for bandwidth. Usb 2 seem to give some weird stutters.
  2. Dongle location is important, just like the Vive trackers. Try and use a (proper) extension cable to get a bit away from your case and closet to line of sight.
  3. Current steamVr works BS on windows and Linux when it's not the beta. I recommend the beta version currently, also for 'Space Calibrator'

For us it seems multilink streaming with 2 frames and 6 vive trackers is no working 'good enough'. When one boots the other has a small stutter, but that's it. Looking at wifi bands I don't think you can have more than 3 frames in one room, but I don't have the experience for that atm.

[–] JelleWho@lemmy.world 3 points 1 week ago

I probably forget to add an round(x;2) again after the conversion

 

What is your update policy? Are you on auto update, or do you manually go over stuff, do you pick a day to just flush it all though, or are you just on an old version?

Share why and how you run your updates? I would like to hear how you all manage them

 

I have been on the hunt for what exact shortcut the controller hides from us. But there is a steam menu (controllers, advance, show more, at the button) that shows them!

Quickly want to change your volume? Try steam key + left joystick!

Sadly you can not change anything here, altought the menu shows you you can, nothing will be saved after you leave a menu. (I'm not a fan to put the left mouse button on the right button)

A few of them I manually found before written out, also for the people without images:

hold A + R1 + Steam
To use Puck wireless mode right

hold A + L1 + Steam
Start Puck wireless mode left

hold B + R1 + Steam Start Bluetooth mode

When on (solid white)

Steam+Y Turn off quickly

Hol steam (10s) Turn off

Steam + left joystick up/down Change volume level

R4 + R5 + L4 + L5 + Steam Backpack mode (ignore buttons until this combo is used again or USB)

Steam + Right trackpad/joystick Mouse movement

Steam + X On screen keyboard

Steam + R1 Take screenshot

Steam + Menu ALT+TAB

Steam + D-pad right Enter key

 

Was working on the shed, and the Hammer head gave way. I found the store where I originally bough it and bought a new handle. Modified it to fit and put it on. Now the hammer can do its job again

 

The hood above the hob had fallen off. The plugs stripped the wall. Made the holes bigger and used better plugs. Also put in some construction glue into the holes for good measure.

12
submitted 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago) by JelleWho@lemmy.world to c/homeassistant@lemmy.world
 

As many of you probably know, Google does not allow you to change the buttons of their chromecast remote. We don't use Netflix at all, but we use Jellyfin. I just though of it and tested it, but Home assistant allows you to track the chromecast and functionality replace one app with another. Making the button now open the jellyfin app

alias: Replace google chromecast nexflix with whoflix
description: >-
  Google does not allow you to re-map the netflix button, but we can launch
  jellyfin when its trying to launch netflix. And thus effectivly replacing the
  button
triggers:
  - trigger: state
    entity_id:
      - remote.woonkamer_tv
    attribute: current_activity
    to:
      - com.netflix.ninja
conditions: []
actions:
  - action: media_player.play_media
    metadata: {}
    target:
      entity_id: media_player.woonkamer_tv
    data:
      media:
        media_content_id: org.jellyfin.androidtv
        media_content_type: app
mode: single
 

I keep having my home assistant freese when I try and activate HAV, been debugging it but didn't found anything yet to solve it.

Buttttt...

What I did find is an easter egg in the source code. It's "HA" in morse code. If you put that into the main button on the device it activates something :)

 

I've already added a LED strip below the kitchen to give some ambient and status lighting (ESP32 with WS2812B). And I also already had a power plug that measured the power (Athom smart plug V2). I've now also a simple door sensor (aqara zigbee). I drilled a hole in the neighbourinf cabinet and embedded some magnet, and placed the door sensor on the dishwasher door. Our dishwasher has the feature to auto open the door when it's done to air dry it.

This all I now have put into a automation to calculate when the dishwasher is; Planned, Running, Finisched, and now emthied too!

No more asking if the dishwasher is going to run tonight, or if its clean. It will tell you with the LED strip!

description: ""
triggers:
  - type: power
    device_id: c1ec0c6f63d1ecd5d3db78555bcdc1b0
    entity_id: ff1351d92d6d4c744974dfbe0a5ad055
    domain: sensor
    trigger: device
    above: 1
    id: sence
  - type: power
    device_id: c1ec0c6f63d1ecd5d3db78555bcdc1b0
    entity_id: ff1351d92d6d4c744974dfbe0a5ad055
    domain: sensor
    trigger: device
    above: 10
    for:
      hours: 0
      minutes: 1
      seconds: 0
    id: running
  - type: power
    device_id: c1ec0c6f63d1ecd5d3db78555bcdc1b0
    entity_id: ff1351d92d6d4c744974dfbe0a5ad055
    domain: sensor
    trigger: device
    below: 1
    for:
      hours: 0
      minutes: 1
      seconds: 0
    enabled: true
    id: done
  - type: not_opened
    device_id: 7e88b779bd6eb8ca35bf872479867fca
    entity_id: 4dbe83576f52026e60073aea8ea105b0
    domain: binary_sensor
    trigger: device
    for:
      hours: 0
      minutes: 0
      seconds: 10
conditions:
  - alias: from_state != unavailable
    condition: template
    value_template: "{{ trigger.from_state.state != 'unavailable' }}"
actions:
  - alias: Change state
    choose:
      - conditions:
          - condition: state
            entity_id: input_text.vaatwasser_state
            state: "off"
          - condition: numeric_state
            entity_id: sensor.smart_plug_23_power
            below: 10
            above: 1
        sequence:
          - data:
              value: sensing
            action: input_text.set_value
            target:
              entity_id: input_text.vaatwasser_state
      - conditions:
          - condition: numeric_state
            entity_id: sensor.smart_plug_23_power
            above: 10
        sequence:
          - data:
              value: running
            action: input_text.set_value
            target:
              entity_id: input_text.vaatwasser_state
      - conditions:
          - condition: state
            entity_id: input_text.vaatwasser_state
            state: running
          - condition: numeric_state
            entity_id: sensor.smart_plug_23_power
            below: 1
        sequence:
          - data:
              entity_id: input_text.vaatwasser_state
              value: done
            action: input_text.set_value
    default:
      - data:
          entity_id: input_text.vaatwasser_state
          value: "off"
        action: input_text.set_value
  - action: script.update_and_shown_led_strip_status
    metadata: {}
    data: {}
mode: queued
max: 3
 

The tip of my bed probe bltouch broke (new one underway, but the print must go) I glued on some filament. And it seems to just work fine again!

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